Concern about russian tortoise hatchling

[animalgod123]

Hi everyone,

I recently got a new Russian tortoise hatchling a few days ago from a breeder. When it arrived it looked tired and weak and wouldn't open its eyes. It hardly moved either. I give it daily baths and try to feed it every day but it will not eat so for this I am really concerned. I had it out of its enclosure today and it was much active and walking around but still would not eat. Also another concern is that on its shell it is rough and has sort of a dry cracked white skin look to it (as seen in the picture). Any advice on what I should do? Thank you

 

[tortoishell]

I'm definitely not a tortoise expert, and I expect a more experienced member like Yvonne or Tom will come and advise you.
On another thread, it was recommended to put carrot baby food into the water.
What are the temps in the enclosure? What lighting do you use? For the cracked shell, maybe one of those shell oils if it's just dry. I'm not sure if that's the solution, probably wait for a second opinion.

 

[Yvonne G]

I would make sure the seller is aware of the problem.

Soak the baby daily in warm water for at least 15 minutes. Re-read the Russian tortoise care sheet, especially this one that talks more about babies: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/ ...and make sure your baby's habitat is set up according to the care sheet. Double check the temperatures all over the habitat at floor level, and cover it to keep the warm air in and the cooler air from the house out.

I think the daily soaks will help that dry-looking shell. The rough surface is how most baby Russians look at that young age.

 

[JoesMum]

Hello and welcome.

Inactivity is almost invariably caused by the enclosure temperatures being wrong.

Your tort needs 35C/95-100F directly under the basking lamp at floor level. Temperature is best measured with a gun type thermometer like this

There are 4 important temperatures you must know: Warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum. What do you have?

Pictures of your enclosure and lighting will help us to spot any other problems.

Have you read the threads written by TFO experts on caring for Russians?

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Baby Russian Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

 

[Maggie Cummings]

For reasons nobody needs to know, but Bob was dug up about 6-8 months after he died. His scutes came off and have those exact same white squiggle lines on their underside, and @Yvonne G why is the carapace between his scutes so high. It kinda looks like he lost his scutes. But then, I only have had adult Russians......

 

[Yvonne G]

Sometimes when they're kept too dry the new growth seems to be higher than the existing shell parts.

 

[Tom]

Like others have said, we need to know more about your temps, housing and lighting.

Have you read these:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

There are probably some answers in there for you.

 

[animalgod123]

I'm definitely not a tortoise expert, and I expect a more experienced member like Yvonne or Tom will come and advise you.
On another thread, it was recommended to put carrot baby food into the water.
What are the temps in the enclosure? What lighting do you use? For the cracked shell, maybe one of those shell oils if it's just dry. I'm not sure if that's the solution, probably wait for a second opinion.

After a few days of daily soaks the shell is starting to look better. The temperature on the hot side is 95 degrees and the temperature on the cool side is 75 degrees.

 

[animalgod123]

I would make sure the seller is aware of the problem.

Soak the baby daily in warm water for at least 15 minutes. Re-read the Russian tortoise care sheet, especially this one that talks more about babies: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/ ...and make sure your baby's habitat is set up according to the care sheet. Double check the temperatures all over the habitat at floor level, and cover it to keep the warm air in and the cooler air from the house out.

I think the daily soaks will help that dry-looking shell. The rough surface is how most baby Russians look at that young age.

Thank you this helped a lot I made adjustments to the enclosure so with this I hope she will start to get better. What do you recommend for food wise? My little one isn't eating much and the seller said it was eating romaine lettuce before I got it. I also recently ordered mazuri tortoise food because that was also recommend by the seller.

 

[animalgod123]

Hello and welcome.

Inactivity is almost invariably caused by the enclosure temperatures being wrong.

Your tort needs 35C/95-100F directly under the basking lamp at floor level. Temperature is best measured with a gun type thermometer like this

There are 4 important temperatures you must know: Warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum. What do you have?

Pictures of your enclosure and lighting will help us to spot any other problems.

Have you read the threads written by TFO experts on caring for Russians?

Beginner Mistakes
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Baby Russian Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/

Yes I have read those threads and have made adjustments to my enclosure. The warm side is 95 degrees while the cool side is 75 degrees.

 

[Yvonne G]

Thank you this helped a lot I made adjustments to the enclosure so with this I hope she will start to get better. What do you recommend for food wise? My little one isn't eating much and the seller said it was eating romaine lettuce before I got it. I also recently ordered mazuri tortoise food because that was also recommend by the seller.

To get it started, use a lot of romaine because that's what the tortoise is used to. Then in a week or so, start adding other, more nutritious foods to the romaine. You can chop them up in tiny pieces and mix it in well. Keep adding more and more over time with less and less of the romaine.

 

[animalgod123]

To get it started, use a lot of romaine because that's what the tortoise is used to. Then in a week or so, start adding other, more nutritious foods to the romaine. You can chop them up in tiny pieces and mix it in well. Keep adding more and more over time with less and less of the romaine.

My tortoise still doesn't seem right. I give it plenty of romaine lettuce and it barely eats any and sometimes none. I give it daily soaks and have its enclosure at the correct temperatures, but it seems like it never has any energy. Is there anything else I can do? What about force feeding? I know that it's difficult with tortoises.

 

[JoesMum]

My tortoise still doesn't seem right. I give it plenty of romaine lettuce and it barely eats any and sometimes none. I give it daily soaks and have its enclosure at the correct temperatures, but it seems like it never has any energy. Is there anything else I can do? What about force feeding? I know that it's difficult with tortoises.

Some tortoises handle change very badly.

Assuming you are 100% certain that:
- you have 100F directly under the basking lamp at floor level
- your basking lamp is hanging vertically and not at an angle
- you have no compact (CFL) UVB bulb
- your lamps are on continuously for 14 hours a day.
- overnight temperatures don't drop below 65F

Then you need to establish a routine so that your tortoise can learn to trust you and its new home.
1. Have the lights go on and off using a timer
2. First thing in the morning, before your tort has warmed up properly, soak your tort for at least 30 minutes in warm water.
3. While your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food.
4. Replace your tort and walk away.
5. Resist the temptation to watch your tort. You are big and scary at the moment. Leave your tort entirely alone to be brave and explore.

It takes time and patience, sometimes weeks, to settle some torts. As long as your tort is being soaked while it refuses food then it will be fine while its on hunger strike.

I'd omit calcium supplement from food for the time being. Once your tort is eating, a tiny pinch of calcium powder sprinkled on food 3 times a week is all that is needed.

 

[Maggie Cummings]

@JoesMum No disrespect meant at all, but why would anyone need a timer for one lousy tortoise? I have 5 tortoises and 15 box turtles, and every morning I turn their lights on and every evening I turn them off. That way I get to see the animal, I would notice any changes, and it gets me up off the couch. And I usually pick them up and say something dumb to them, but I see how they react and look. I also check them out as I take them out to the pond for swimming. Like I said I really don't mean any disrespect, but ya can't walk over and turn one light on or off twice a day???

 

[JoesMum]

@JoesMum No disrespect meant at all, but why would anyone need a timer for one lousy tortoise? I have 5 tortoises and 15 box turtles, and every morning I turn their lights on and every evening I turn them off. That way I get to see the animal, I would notice any changes, and it gets me up off the couch. And I usually pick them up and say something dumb to them, but I see how they react and look. I also check them out as I take them out to the pond for swimming. Like I said I really don't mean any disrespect, but ya can't walk over and turn one light on or off twice a day???

No offence taken Maggie, but some people are shorter on time and/ or sleep irregular hours.

Having a timer guarantees the lights are on every day for the required amount of time, gives the tort a regular routine where the owner perhaps doesn't have one and makes going away overnight, out partying or a weekend lie-in a darn sight easier

And it establishes a routine for a timid tortoise with a very small monetary outlay.

 

[Yvonne G]

@JoesMum No disrespect meant at all, but why would anyone need a timer for one lousy tortoise? I have 5 tortoises and 15 box turtles, and every morning I turn their lights on and every evening I turn them off. That way I get to see the animal, I would notice any changes, and it gets me up off the couch. And I usually pick them up and say something dumb to them, but I see how they react and look. I also check them out as I take them out to the pond for swimming. Like I said I really don't mean any disrespect, but ya can't walk over and turn one light on or off twice a day???

I feel the same way, Maggie. One time when Will was here getting baby leopards he put timers on all my outdoor sheds' lights. It really does absolutely no good to have them there, because I've always used that time - the turning on and off lights time - to double check everything. So if I go out in the evening to check on the tortoises and the timer has turned off the lights, I just override the timer and turn them back on. It saves me absolutely no time at all.

I suppose if I ever have to have my daughter come over and care for the animals if I'm away for any reason, it would be helpful to her to have the lights on timers, but I'm hardly ever away.

 

[JoesMum]

It depends on your lifestyle. But most of the torts I recommend timers for are kept in the house with people who are working or at school. If it makes life a little easier then there's nothing wrong with it and it could mean the difference between a tort getting enough heat and UVB and a sick one.

 

[Yvonne G]

I totally understand the concept. It's just another one of those not one-size-fits-all tortoise-keeping things.

 

[animalgod123]

Okay back to my tortoise. when I soak him that's when he is the most active (which still isn't much) but still refuses to eat. I had him for about a week and it hardly ate anything how much longer should I wait until I should try force feeding? If I should even do that at all.

 

[JoesMum]

Okay back to my tortoise. when I soak him that's when he is the most active (which still isn't much) but still refuses to eat. I had him for about a week and it hardly ate anything how much longer should I wait until I should try force feeding? If I should even do that at all.

Force feeding will likely make matters worse.

I refer you to my earlier answer:

Some tortoises handle change very badly.

Assuming you are 100% certain that:
- you have 100F directly under the basking lamp at floor level
- your basking lamp is hanging vertically and not at an angle
- you have no compact (CFL) UVB bulb
- your lamps are on continuously for 14 hours a day.
- overnight temperatures don't drop below 65F

Then you need to establish a routine so that your tortoise can learn to trust you and its new home.
1. Have the lights go on and off using a timer
2. First thing in the morning, before your tort has warmed up properly, soak your tort for at least 30 minutes in warm water.
3. While your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food.
4. Replace your tort and walk away.
5. Resist the temptation to watch your tort. You are big and scary at the moment. Leave your tort entirely alone to be brave and explore.

It takes time and patience, sometimes weeks, to settle some torts. As long as your tort is being soaked while it refuses food then it will be fine while its on hunger strike.

I'd omit calcium supplement from food for the time being. Once your tort is eating, a tiny pinch of calcium powder sprinkled on food 3 times a week is all that is needed.