My observations:Yes of course! Okay so he was Easter Hermanns tortoise. The main book I used was the Hermann’s Tortoise by Ben Team. I built his indoor enclosure out of a garden table… it was 4 feet long and 2 feet wide and I had a substrate depth of 6 inches with 10 inches above him. I used a ceramic heater on one side where the temps stayed about 95/98 degrees. I left this on all day and night. He liked to bask there and at night would burrows underneath it. The other side of the enclosure was around 70 degrees. He had a hide on the side of the heater. The substrate I used was eco earth which I bought in blocks on amazon and repti chip. He always had a shallow dish with water. I had a light spanning most of the enclosure which was from Arcadia and was for dessert animals. The strength it said in the book. Clive also had access to real sunlight. I fed him on a slate which I washed everyday. I would get him dandelion greens from Whole Foods, collard greens and wheat grass also a little kale sometimes. I would sometimes sprinkle dried hibiscus on his food. Also few days a week I would give him the mazurka tortoise chow food… a few pellets that I wet. I soaked him once a week or like every 10 days which water I would make sure the temp matched what I read… and he would like to sit there if he went to the bathroom I would have another small plastic tub I would put him in. Every day I would wash the water bowl and slate, pick up and poo and also mist his whole enclosure. Almost every day I would take him out and let him explore in the sunroom which was always around 75 degrees, natural sunlight and also places to hide. He would be there for like 30 min/ 1hour. I changed his substrate every month… I tried a few different ones this combo had the least fruit flies. I hope this is helpful. Oh also I had a cuddle bone for him but he never really cared about it.
1. Most tortoise care info given in the world is all wrong. Its been wrong for decades and continually passed from generation to generation. Get your care info here.
2. There are four elements to heating and lighting:
- Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
- Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
- Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
- UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
4. Do you have a Solarmeter 6.5? That is what you need to set the UV tube at the correct height. The Arcadia bulb you bought is the best, but it must be set at the correct height, and only a UV meter can tell you that. It also only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day.
5. A 6 inch Testudo needs at least 4x8 feet. 2x4 is only suitable for a tiny baby.
6. They should never be loose on the floor. It can't be made safe, and something always happens to get them impacted, sick, or dead. Everyone thinks it is safe, right up until they realize they were wrong, and then it is too late.
7. Your substrate was fine. The bugs are not fruit flies. They are phorid flies and they come from the surrounding environment to colonize your warm damp substrate. They are harmless detrivores and work to keep your substrate cleaner and more sanitary. I ignore them. Coco coir works best for babies, and the orchid bark works best for adults.
8. The food you offered was pretty good, but more variety is needed. Refer to the care sheet Lyn linked for more ideas.
9. Babies should be soaked for 30-40 minutes daily. Adults are fine with once or twice a week.
10. Closed chambers work better for babies, and open table are fine for adults as long as the table is large enough.
My best guess about what went wrong was that you got a bad one from the pet shop, or that yours ingested something on the floor. An x ray might help to confirm or deny number two. Read that care sheet from Lyn before you get your next one. Questions are welcome.