what is the most ideal set up?

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tooortoisetortoise

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Hey, I have a baby red foot tortoise and I just got him/her today and would like to know the best set up? for now I have the pellet type substrate cause I was told to use that or the forest floor type substrate.... I have a heating lamp used for my iguana but its been awhile and i don't know the specs on it as far as temps it gives off.... so i would like to purchase a new one and would love to hear of 1. what bulb wattage to get and maybe what brand of heat lamp (ceramic etc) i should get and i read to get mulch moss and i plan to order that is that alone enough as substrate or should I buy the soil too? I purchased my tortoise from the turtle source site and they included some tortoise food that look like big pellets....is that mazuri? and i know to moisten it and mash it up and maybe mix in some veggies for the tortoise... is that ok for now or should i moosh it up and throw in some spring mix /romaine lettuce--fruits too? like which foods should consistently be in it's enclosure? i read you can give spring mix, dark leafy greens, collard green, okra , romaine lettuce, dandelions (can i order them?) , mango , etc.... for now he/she seems like it is maybe getting used to things and is hanging out in the corner right now.... how necessary is it to get a under tank heater? i plan to mist the enclosure daily w the heat source going to create humidity ... any tips? thanks!
 

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tyler0912

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Well, People use to use pellets for tortoises...in the stone age ( ;) )
Forest floor is great i use 4 bags of that and 3 blocks of coco coir to fill my 6' x 2' .
I use a Exo Terra Ceramic base lamp. The Wattage has to be determined on how big your enclosure is , and how far aay the lamp is, my tortoises lamp is about 30cm away from the substrate and it is 100w. gets a temp ranging from 95*F - 104*F . I use a ultrasonic Zoo Med fogger (?)
I put it in water in a plastic container and decorate it for my own benefit. At nights it gets to 90% and during the day drops to about 79% minimum unless ran often.
and here is a diet thing on the top of my head?

Few ideas**

**Vegetables-
Romaine Lettuce, Sweetheart cabbage, Green Cabbage, Red cabbage, Spring Mix, Collards, escarole, Sweet potato, Celery, Spinach, Red Peppers, Green peppers, Yellow peppers, Cucumber, Red lettuce, Gem lettuce, Carrot, Mushroom, Peas, Baby corn(?), IceBerg lettuce, Yellow Squash, Butternut Squash, Zucchini, Raddichio, Chicory, Endive, Turnip Greens, Mustard Greens, Kale, Winter Squash, Pumpkin, Green beans.

**Fruit-
Papaya, Apples, Mango, Strawberries, Blackberries, Cactus Fruit, Tomato, Blueberries, Rasberries, Banana, Pear, Watermelon, Honeydew melon, Galia melon, Grapes, Kiwi.

**Weeds And flowers-
Dandelions,
Bindweed, Clover
White Clover,
Red Clover,
Smooth Sow Thistle
Plantain ,Greater Plantain,
Campanula
Milk Thistle
Hedge Mustard
Pansy
Mimulas
Petunias
Jack By The Hedge
Vetch
Sedum
Pyramidal Bugle
Cuckoo Flower
Bitter Cress
Garlic Mustard
Aubretia
SpeedWell
Yarrow
Sweet Violet
Bristly Ox Tongue
Welsh Poppy
Self Heal
Aloe(s)
Hypericum
Dead Nettle
Nipplewort

**Protein-
Boiled Chicken Breast, Hoppers or Pinkies, Boiled egg, Low fat dog/cat food, tortoise pellets, Night crawlers, insects.

Occasionaly**--
Iceberg lettuce
Banana
Spinach

I feed four times a week a strict routine-

Tuesday-Vegetables

Thursday-Fruit and Vegetables

Saturday-Pellets and fruit and vegetables,

Sunday- Protein

Calium Supplements- Tuesday-Saturday
Cuttlefish should be left in the enclosure.
Protein should not be fead until roughly 6months old.
And should be fead x1 every x1 or x2 weeks.
Fruit should be fead like protein, not to often.



UVB- Many people argue that redfooted tortoises do not need UVB lights as they are tropical species and have much varied diets than other tortoise, and get everything they need from that.
Also people think in the wild, the canopies of trees block out the UVB for them.
I dont use a UVB light for mine and they are healthy. But you are not hurting him/her/them in using one............

Really hoped this helped?....or did i just mumble?
My fingers hurt from all this writing now! :') HEEH!
Welcome!"
 

Madkins007

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There are lots of really good ways to set up for a red-footed tortoise. There are several articles and links about it in places like the Tortoise Library, linked below.

While we LOVE to help here, asking lots of questions all at once tends to not always get you the best answers. If you look over some good general care sites or articles, we can help you figure out how to tune the advice to your situation better.


Tyler said:
"UVB- Many people argue that redfooted tortoises do not need UVB lights as they are tropical species and have much varied diets than other tortoise, and get everything they need from that.
Also people think in the wild, the canopies of trees block out the UVB for them.
I dont use a UVB light for mine and they are healthy. But you are not hurting him/her/them in using one............"

Red-footed tortoises prefer open savannah or open forests to deep jungle, so the vast majority of wild red-footeds get plenty of UV lightning. Next, heavy canopy does block UVB, but 10-20% still gets through, and there are well documented sightings of deep forest tortoises basking after extended periods of clouds or rain- probably to recharge UVB. The claim that they get all their vitamin D needs from their diet is probably not true either- at least, there are not a lot of high-D foods in the wild that they are documented as eating enough of.

Having a tortoise appear healthy without UVB is not really much proof that they do not need it. UVB provides vitamin D, an absolutely VITAL nutrient to build strong bones and shells, and UV lighting itself stimulates more natural behaviors and interacts with various deep brain glands like the pineal gland. Studies have shown that proper exposure to UV lighting improves reproduction, partly as a result of the effects on the glands.

It is certainly true that red-footeds and other tortoises can do OK without UVB lighting, but that does not mean it is the best way to raise them.

FYI- if your tortoise gets about an hour of real sunlight, that does not pass through glass or plastic, every week then it probably does not need a UVB lamp.
 

tooortoisetortoise

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thanks for the responses... I saw the exo terra ceramic 10'' lamp fixture on amazon and was planning to get the powersun bulb that is 100w for the enclosure.... for now i have a 29 gallon tank but from reading it is not optimal to use that I plan to get a storage container as the enclosure...i saw tortoise tables for 150 and up and i don't really want to spend that much alone on the main enclosure.... so i think ill go with the large storage container... and plan to use cypress mulch as the substrate and one site suggested tilting the container on one end with the more wet substrate side under the lamp and the cooler side raised up....the supplier included the big pellets i am assuming is mazuri? and i think I soak it up and how often do i feed the tortoise that stuff? I know veggies and fruits are the main diet but, jw?

I know and sorry for this since it isn't enclosure related.... i can't seem to get an answer through the internet.... the tortoise is 2 to 2.5 inches long from the part of the shell near its head to its tail.....and still has a eggtooth.... i read they are 1.5 to 2 inches at hatching..... supposedly he/she is 13 to 15 weeks old but seems younger somehow. My pic of it is attached on the first post i did on this section but its a close up and such.....any ideas? thanks... i tried looking up what age they lose their egg tooth or 'absorb' it and no where seems to tell me that....
 

tyler0912

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Madkins007 said:
There are lots of really good ways to set up for a red-footed tortoise. There are several articles and links about it in places like the Tortoise Library, linked below.

While we LOVE to help here, asking lots of questions all at once tends to not always get you the best answers. If you look over some good general care sites or articles, we can help you figure out how to tune the advice to your situation better.


Tyler said:
"UVB- Many people argue that redfooted tortoises do not need UVB lights as they are tropical species and have much varied diets than other tortoise, and get everything they need from that.
Also people think in the wild, the canopies of trees block out the UVB for them.
I dont use a UVB light for mine and they are healthy. But you are not hurting him/her/them in using one............"

Red-footed tortoises prefer open savannah or open forests to deep jungle, so the vast majority of wild red-footeds get plenty of UV lightning. Next, heavy canopy does block UVB, but 10-20% still gets through, and there are well documented sightings of deep forest tortoises basking after extended periods of clouds or rain- probably to recharge UVB. The claim that they get all their vitamin D needs from their diet is probably not true either- at least, there are not a lot of high-D foods in the wild that they are documented as eating enough of.

Having a tortoise appear healthy without UVB is not really much proof that they do not need it. UVB provides vitamin D, an absolutely VITAL nutrient to build strong bones and shells, and UV lighting itself stimulates more natural behaviors and interacts with various deep brain glands like the pineal gland. Studies have shown that proper exposure to UV lighting improves reproduction, partly as a result of the effects on the glands.

It is certainly true that red-footeds and other tortoises can do OK without UVB lighting, but that does not mean it is the best way to raise them.

FYI- if your tortoise gets about an hour of real sunlight, that does not pass through glass or plastic, every week then it probably does not need a UVB lamp.

sorry if i got this part wrong :/
 

Madkins007

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tooortoisetortoise said:
thanks for the responses... I saw the exo terra ceramic 10'' lamp fixture on amazon and was planning to get the powersun bulb that is 100w for the enclosure.... for now i have a 29 gallon tank but from reading it is not optimal to use that I plan to get a storage container as the enclosure...i saw tortoise tables for 150 and up and i don't really want to spend that much alone on the main enclosure.... so i think ill go with the large storage container... and plan to use cypress mulch as the substrate and one site suggested tilting the container on one end with the more wet substrate side under the lamp and the cooler side raised up....the supplier included the big pellets i am assuming is mazuri? and i think I soak it up and how often do i feed the tortoise that stuff? I know veggies and fruits are the main diet but, jw?

I know and sorry for this since it isn't enclosure related.... i can't seem to get an answer through the internet.... the tortoise is 2 to 2.5 inches long from the part of the shell near its head to its tail.....and still has a eggtooth.... i read they are 1.5 to 2 inches at hatching..... supposedly he/she is 13 to 15 weeks old but seems younger somehow. My pic of it is attached on the first post i did on this section but its a close up and such.....any ideas? thanks... i tried looking up what age they lose their egg tooth or 'absorb' it and no where seems to tell me that....

No problem using an aquarium- I know a lot don't like them, but they work just fine as long as you set it up decently.

Mazuri can be used daily, or weekly, or once in a while- whatever works for you. This is something else that different people will do differently and as long as you are careful with the amounts, per Mazuri's instructions, the tort will be fine.

Egg teeth do not generally last a long time, but the better tool is the yolk sac scar. If the scar is pretty well healed, the tortoise is a good age to be adopted.
 
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