Vitamins

Living Fossil

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Sep 2, 2014
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This is a great site. Even my Vet recommended it, after he gave my two boxes a check up last month.
I've never been one to give my 2 oldest girls vitamins, because they used to eat pretty regularly. But now they seem to turn their noses up at everything but earthworms.
I have a very large, indoor, turtle enclosure and take them outside when I get a chance, maybe once a month to play in the backyard.
For the past 30 years, I've used Vitashell, skin and shell conditioning cream on them once a month. They've always liked it and makes them look new and shiny like a brand new car.
I have an older jar of T-Rex vitamin powder that has Calcium, Phosphorus, Vitamin A, D3, C, and Bata Carotene. To me, it seems to have a lot of vitamin A, 480,000 IU.
(I personally don't take vitamin A in Human Multi-Vitamins, because it gives me stomach cramps.)
When I took my 2 girls to the Vet, he gave then both a shot of vitamin A, and it seemed to have perked them up for a couple of weeks and they started eating better, but now, they are both sluggish again. Weather has nothing to do with their inactivity, as I said they are inside all the time. I figured that since they don't hibernate like they would do in the wild, that they just get lazy once in awhile.
Any comments on vitamin A ?
I just bought a new container of Zoo Med, Repti-Calcium powder, that only has Calcium Carbonate and vitamin D3, from the local pet store. I couldn't find anything with vitamin A..
 

Yvonne G

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I don't like to get the injections for the vitamin. It is so easy to get it into the turtle through diet, and dangerous if they inject too much. Any of the 'red' foods contain a lot of vitamin A - cantaloupe, carrots, yams, dark, leafy greens, apricots, red peppers, cooked tuna, mango - and the list goes on.
 

Lyles

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Joined
Sep 29, 2014
Messages
39
Lay off the earthworms. If you are giving them strictly earthworms as a staple then they will become picky.

Make a blend of chopped vegetables with some fruit. Chop up a couple of earthworms and add to the mix. Also can try coating with fish oil to help stimulate their appetite and to add omega 3 vitamins.

Check your UVA/UVB lamp, they tend to go out after 6 months, even if the light is still going it may no longer be giving out UV radiation.

Lastly, stop using the vitashell. It is completely unnecessary and can cause shell rot and other infections as it can trap bacteria in the soft tissue layer between the scutes of the shell. Many of these commercial products you see on the shelf for pets are not good at all, as there are no regulations for pet products, meaning they can add whatever they want to it. If you really want to pamper you boxies or if you are having a problem maintaining humidity, try either organic argon oil (sparsely as it is very rich) or raw organic shea butter. Both can be bought off amazon. Personally, I've had great results with the shea butter. A 1 lbs. block will last half a year if not more and is for only around 10 bucks.


Forgot to add: If you are using UV lighting, do not use calcium supplements with D3. Turtles produce their own D3 from UV radiation as needed, when given orally they cannot control it. Excess D3 in their system will cause liver damage. I'd recommend getting a cuttlebone (they sell them in bird isle). You can put them either just like they are or you can shave some off in their food. They are the best calcium supplements because it is all natural and contains essential minerals from the sea. They will often take bites out of them as needed (this will also help trim their beaks).

It is great that you found these forums, hope you'll use it to learn and share with us :D .
 
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