urates in tortoise

nuttpntz

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293DA0BD-1A3E-4021-A0E9-AC4E023278FC.jpeg
is this too much urate for my sulcata

i soak him daily and most of the time he tend to just pee with no urate
i havnt seen him excrete urate for at least a month or so now and this time its so much!

most of his diet are 80% mazuri
and sometimes i give him hibiscus , cactus and rarely some veggie
 

wellington

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Is it gritty? Looks gritty to me which is a sign of being dehydrated. May also be why he hasn't passed any in a while.
He also needs a better diet. More greens less mazuri.
What is the enclosure temps-basking, all over, night?
What's the humidity?
What type of bulbs for heat, light and uvb are you using?
Type of substrate?
 

nuttpntz

New Member
Joined
May 25, 2022
Messages
6
Location (City and/or State)
bangkok
Is it gritty? Looks gritty to me which is a sign of being dehydrated. May also be why he hasn't passed any in a while.
He also needs a better diet. More greens less mazuri.
What is the enclosure temps-basking, all over, night?
What's the humidity?
What type of bulbs for heat, light and uvb are you using?
Type of substrate?
before i was using corn cob as a substrate , maybe he ingest some of it. now i change it to a soil x sand x coco coir.
his temperature is ideal and humidity in thailand is quite high.
for the bulb i’ve been using both uva and uva bulb.

here is his/her new enclosure for now.
F4141370-0A2F-47F0-ABC3-499F4CDEE0E6.jpeg
 

wellington

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before i was using corn cob as a substrate , maybe he ingest some of it. now i change it to a soil x sand x coco coir.
his temperature is ideal and humidity in thailand is quite high.
for the bulb i’ve been using both uva and uva bulb.

here is his/her new enclosure for now.
View attachment 345510
Get rid of the sand and give him a much bigger enclosure. He needs a closed chamber enclosure. Search its care it under the species specific threads. He needs high humidity. Lots need to be changed.
 

TammyJ

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If the advice given here is not followed, you will very soon have a sick, dehydrated tortoise.
 

Tom

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before i was using corn cob as a substrate , maybe he ingest some of it. now i change it to a soil x sand x coco coir.
his temperature is ideal and humidity in thailand is quite high.
for the bulb i’ve been using both uva and uva bulb.

here is his/her new enclosure for now.
View attachment 345510
All of this is intended to be helpful. You have some serious problems there that need to be corrected if you want this baby to survive and thrive. Here is what I see in the pictures:

-The feces in the first picture, along with the urates, indicate the this tortoise is dehydrated and in too dry of an environment. In the wild that hatch at the start of the hot wet humid monsoon season, and these are the conditions they need to thrive. These are NOT desert animals. Even in the dry season, they stay underground in their warm humid burrows.
-Neither soil nor sand should ever be used as tortoise substrate. This is old, incorrect, outdated info, and it tells me you are reading the wrong stuff. Soil and sand is not safe and is likely to result in an impacted intestinal tract.
-The food pellets need to be soaked and turned to soft mush. You tortoise can't eat them in that dry state.
-Cardboard is not suitable for hides. If the environment is correctly damp, the cardboard will rot and mold. Use plastic instead.
-Store bought plants are typically grown with systemic pesticides. These cannot be washed off and the toxins can last a full year in some cases. Where did you get those plants?
-This little tub is WAY too small for this tortoise. They need much more space than that.
-Is that a "spot" type bulb? That will cause your tortoise to pyramid. Use a flood type bulb instead.
-Where is the water bowl? Your tortoise needs a large shallow water bowl sunk into the strata that it can climb into, drink and soak.
-You have a basking lamp, but where is the UV tube and ambient lighting? Night heat?
There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
-There is no way to maintain the correct heat and humidity in an open topped enclosure like that. Not even in a humid climate. The low sides make it even worse. Please read this for the correct care and housing advice:

If you don't correct these problems, survival is not likely. Questions are welcome. We would love to help you.
 

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