soaking/drinking
- Thread starter baldegale
- Start date
Perfect. It's a must.
good! i just for some reason remember when i first got him there being something on one website saying its a bad idea and can cause shell rot. but, as ive learned by being a part of this forum is that experience is way more valuable than common knowledge.
It's critical that he has water available. That one looks perfect.
also, while am at it would you recommend using a fogger? or would that be too much
As mysticcaribou said, it is critical that your tortoise is hydrated, if it's kept dry then it will pyramid. Be sure your enclosure is a closed system so you can maintain the correct temperature and humidity levels. My temps are 80 to 86f and humidity is 80%+.
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this is everything light wise/some hardware that im planning on getting for a 4x8 closed chamber. i still need to figure out a good cheap place to get coco coir. what basking bulb would you recommend?
this is everything light wise/some hardware that im planning on getting for a 4x8 closed chamber. i still need to figure out a good cheap place to get coco coir. what basking bulb would you recommend?
For Coco coir over here in the UK I buy it from 'home bargains'. £2 for 50ltr. Not sure what shops you have over there, but gardening shops have it.
I don't used a basking light.
I aim for an ambient temp throughout.
In that size enclosure a 3ft 5.0 UVB strip light should do, set it width ways so it doesn't make the entire enclosure illuminated. They don't like it constantly bright. For heat I would use CHE's on thermostats. You'll probably need 3x100w.(maybe more I'm not sure). No need for a fogger or domes, domes will consentrate the heat and you want an even spread.
A thick layer of coir, then Cyprus mulch and/or orchid bark on top layer. This top layer will keep the coir moist. Put spaghnum moss in the hides to keep humid.
You may want a few water dishes scattered around, the evaporation will help keep up humidity.
Feed on a slate or flat rock.
Hope that helps.
I don't used a basking light.
I aim for an ambient temp throughout.
In that size enclosure a 3ft 5.0 UVB strip light should do, set it width ways so it doesn't make the entire enclosure illuminated. They don't like it constantly bright. For heat I would use CHE's on thermostats. You'll probably need 3x100w.(maybe more I'm not sure). No need for a fogger or domes, domes will consentrate the heat and you want an even spread.
A thick layer of coir, then Cyprus mulch and/or orchid bark on top layer. This top layer will keep the coir moist. Put spaghnum moss in the hides to keep humid.
You may want a few water dishes scattered around, the evaporation will help keep up humidity.
Feed on a slate or flat rock.
Hope that helps.
i will look into that coco coir, i plan on doing 4 inches of coco coir then one inch of the fir/orchid bark then!
i already planned on getting two CHE's. can you recommend a thermostat for it? also cant i just take the dome off and only have the fixture?
i already have some moss for sure.
i also planned on having 2-3 water dishes like i originally posted on here and 2-3 hides. all scattered throughout.
i already feed him on flat rock but may look into slate tile for feeding time cause the rock i have is kinda small.
i will further look into the UVB. ill stay with that brand just try and find a smaller fixture.
i already planned on getting two CHE's. can you recommend a thermostat for it? also cant i just take the dome off and only have the fixture?
i already have some moss for sure.
i also planned on having 2-3 water dishes like i originally posted on here and 2-3 hides. all scattered throughout.
i already feed him on flat rock but may look into slate tile for feeding time cause the rock i have is kinda small.
i will further look into the UVB. ill stay with that brand just try and find a smaller fixture.
Can't help with thermostat brand name, I use 'habistat'.
Yes you can just take domes off with some types. What ever you use be sure they are ceramic sockets and not plastic for CHE's. Keep us posted on your enclosure design. Sounds good.
@Tom. Can help with sealer type please, also what sort of wattage do you reckon will be needed in a closed 4x8ft enclosure?
for what? uvb or CHE?
You need to know how much wattage of heat you are going to need to get a 4x8ft enclosure up to let's say 90f. There are a few factors to take into account like..
What it's made of.
Is it insulated.
What the external temps.
What temps do you require.
I know a 150w CHE will do an uninsulated 2x4x4ft made of 18mm ply with a glass front up to 90f.
I'm guessing you'll need about 300watt but make it 3 x 100w CHE's so you can help spread the heat by placing them in different areas of the enclosure.
You may well need 400watt. Personally I would get sockets that are rated at 200w for your CHE's so you are covered if you have to up the wattage amount.
That's what I would do. I would have sockets rated at 200w for a 150w CHE though. I like to go one higher on socket rating just to be safe.
should i use a basking bulb or no?
I started building a 4x8x2 viv a few weeks back. My plan is to do exactly what you said with heat. I've had to stop the project for a while due to other jobs I have going on in the house. This is a rough sketch of what I'm doing. The doors are angled so to reduce air space to be heated, and this way substrate doesn't get stuck at the front like on standard vivariums.
Attachments
No.
Have your feeding area near your UVB strip light.
