Miss Piggy (Russian) Not Eating after brumation

Moonfleur54

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My 6yo Female WC Russian tort named Miss Piggy came out of a 3 month brumation approximately a month ago and is showing no interest in food. She weighed 2.2lbs before brumation and currently weighs 1.87lbs. In the summer I feed her a mix of handpicked weeds such as dandelion, plantain, edible flowers, radiccio, kale mixed with Spring Mix. In Winter she gets Spring Mix, radiccio, dandelion powder and soaked Flukers pellets. In winter she gets every other day soaks and weekly in summer if she's been in her outdoor space a lot. Her indoor temps are kept at 73-85. She has a 34" T10 UVB tube and a 65 watt Flood basking around 95-98 with several bright LEDS. She doesn't use her basking light much, at least not sitting under it. She is usually awake in the winter but burrows all day about 12" from the light. Finally got a small stool sample via very very warm soaks, Vet states the results came back normal, no parasite overload. Over the winter, Piggy has passed thick yellowish urates, every 2 weeks. Our Vet suggested I start syringe feeding her Oxbow Critical Care for Herbivores. Were trying for 1 Tablespoon daily, but worried we might stress her out. On our forth day of 4- 6cc (1-1.5 tsp) and she's giving us small a stool sample and several urates that are much looser. I'm east of Columbus, Ohio and our weather has been too cold to let her out. BTW, a new UVB tube is on its way!
Apologies for this post being so long, wanted to give the details to make help easier.
Piggy looks and a acts normal, doesn't drag her shell, but I can tell she's not as plump as usual!
 

wellington

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I would not force feed her. That can go so wrong.
Give daily soaks with pureed baby food, carrots, squash, or any approved greens they may have and Pedialyte to the soak water.
 

Tom

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My 6yo Female WC Russian tort named Miss Piggy came out of a 3 month brumation approximately a month ago and is showing no interest in food. She weighed 2.2lbs before brumation and currently weighs 1.87lbs. In the summer I feed her a mix of handpicked weeds such as dandelion, plantain, edible flowers, radiccio, kale mixed with Spring Mix. In Winter she gets Spring Mix, radiccio, dandelion powder and soaked Flukers pellets. In winter she gets every other day soaks and weekly in summer if she's been in her outdoor space a lot. Her indoor temps are kept at 73-85. She has a 34" T10 UVB tube and a 65 watt Flood basking around 95-98 with several bright LEDS. She doesn't use her basking light much, at least not sitting under it. She is usually awake in the winter but burrows all day about 12" from the light. Finally got a small stool sample via very very warm soaks, Vet states the results came back normal, no parasite overload. Over the winter, Piggy has passed thick yellowish urates, every 2 weeks. Our Vet suggested I start syringe feeding her Oxbow Critical Care for Herbivores. Were trying for 1 Tablespoon daily, but worried we might stress her out. On our forth day of 4- 6cc (1-1.5 tsp) and she's giving us small a stool sample and several urates that are much looser. I'm east of Columbus, Ohio and our weather has been too cold to let her out. BTW, a new UVB tube is on its way!
Apologies for this post being so long, wanted to give the details to make help easier.
Piggy looks and a acts normal, doesn't drag her shell, but I can tell she's not as plump as usual!
Dug down in a warm enclosure near the heat lamp indoors and getting soaked every other day is NOT brumation. I suspect that this is your problem. Read this and what is going on will become more clear:
 

Moonfleur54

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I would not force feed her. That can go so wrong.
Give daily soaks with pureed baby food, carrots, squash, or any approved greens they may have and Pedialyte to the soak water.
Could you help me understand baby food soaks? How much baby food and how does that work. I just replaced her UVB tube today just in case that might have been the problem.
 

wellington

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Use just enough water to come up to just where the water meets where the top and bottom shell meet. Depending on the size jar, use whole(tiny jar) or half jar(larger jar) mix it water. If using the Pedialyte add about the same amount as the baby food.
They can absorb thru skin and cloaca. How it helps, not real sure. My guess is they are kinda force to taste it, take it in, without us having to be intrusive like tube or force feeding and also not dangerous. They get some nutrients and usually start eating or doing better with whatever the problem is.
 

Moonfleur54

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Use just enough water to come up to just where the water meets where the top and bottom shell meet. Depending on the size jar, use whole(tiny jar) or half jar(larger jar) mix it water. If using the Pedialyte add about the same amount as the baby food.
They can absorb thru skin and cloaca. How it helps, not real sure. My guess is they are kinda force to taste it, take it in, without us having to be intrusive like tube or force feeding and also not dangerous. They get some nutrients and usually start eating or doing better with whatever the problem is.
Thanks so much Wellington! I tried the Bfood soak for about 30 minutes. She's back in her burrow, butt end out, thank Jesus. Hopefully she get some new UVB. I've been syringe feeding her with critical care, and I agree with you that soaks are less risky, especially regarding aspirating! What do you think about adding some critical care to her baby food soak??
 

Moonfleur54

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Thanks so much Wellington! I tried the Bfood soak for about 30 minutes. She's back in her burrow, butt end out, thank Jesus. Hopefully she get some new UVB. I've been syringe feeding her with critical care, and I agree with you that soaks are less risky, especially regarding aspirating! What do you think about adding some critical care to her baby food soak??
 

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wellington

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Thanks so much Wellington! I tried the Bfood soak for about 30 minutes. She's back in her burrow, butt end out, thank Jesus. Hopefully she get some new UVB. I've been syringe feeding her with critical care, and I agree with you that soaks are less risky, especially regarding aspirating! What do you think about adding some critical care to her baby food soak??
Yes you could add that in place of the piedialyte.
 

wellington

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I would try to get the over all temp at 80 and the coolest end 75. Basking 95-100. Then at night, until she starts eating on her own and acting normal keep night temps at 70-75. After she is 100% then night temps can be room temp or down into the 60's not lower than 60.

Next winter keep all temps as you are doing now. If they don't 100% brumate they need to be fed, watered and temps and lighting kept as normal. If you 100% brumate, then it has to be done in stages, and over a few weeks with the brumation being in a controlled 40's, about 46-48 frig or other temp controlled area. Mine will stop eating for about a month but he still gets fed just Incase, still has all the proper warm temps and basking and water.
 

wellington

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This is VERY good to know, Thanks! It made sense because CCare is packed with such good nutrition. We've fed her for 4 days, stopping syringe feeding today per your advice. So, once per day baby food + CCare soaks?
I think I would do twice a day to start maybe for a few days, then once a day.
 

Moonfleur54

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This is VERY good to know, Thanks! It made sense because CCare is packed with such good nutrition. We've fed her for 4 days, stopping syringe feeding today per your advice. So, once per day baby food + CCare soaks?
Her temps indoors are almost there now. I moved the basking light farther away from her burrow. Our weather here in central Ohio will be in the sunny mid to high 70s. She loves being out and shows interest in food. Will be in touch! Again, thanks!
 

Cathie G

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If the humidity level is only 28% at substrate level which is what your device is saying it needs to be a bit higher. I've always read it should be at 40 - 60% even for people. But now I'm seeing here on TFO 30 - 50%. I usually keep my Russian around 45% or even a little higher at times. I've found that Sapphire does best that way.
 

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