Made this simple setup!

_Turtle024

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View attachment 285881

I couldn't find a picture of what I wanted to show, but if you just cut circles the same size as the light, then wrap foil around the edges of the circles. In this picture there's wire mesh across, but wire inhibits the passing through of the good UVB rays, so you don't want wire.

Will this be better for now?
20200205_185040.jpg20200205_185021.jpg
 

jso

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Wellington is 100% correct, just because you don't see problems doesn't mean there aren't any, and its not worth the risk. The moss is not going to make a large difference anyhow, so just take it out.
Clay saucers are easy to come by, and are a much safer option. My baby had a feature he didn't flip on for a month, but today I found him plopped on his back. If he makes a slight mistake, he could risk his life, YOU could risk his life.
55-60 humidity is too low, I have heard 70 is desirable. He also needs a stable 80 degrees day and night, as well as a 95 degree basking spot.
Please be more open, we want to help your tortoise. Wellingtons tips are needed if you want to raise a healthy tortoise. Not the kind of thing you want to shrug off.
PLEASE take wellingtons suggestions to heart.
Why would a Hermann’s tortoise, originally from Southern Europe, require “a stable 80 degrees day and night” ? A night-time drop in temperature is perfectly natural (and possibly even beneficial). A visit to areas where these tortoises come from would confirm that lower temperatures at night time are very common. I’m relieved to see the hermann’s caresheet often referred to on here does suggest a night-time drop of up to 15* is acceptable. (Maybe a different story if we were talking about a tropical tortoise such as a Redfoot coming from an area where temps are more constant day and night)
 
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Blackdog1714

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Baby tortoises require warmer temps all day as they don’t have the mass to maintain warmth they acquired during the day.
 

wellington

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Why would a Hermann’s tortoise, originally from Southern Europe, require “a stable 80 degrees day and night” ? A night-time drop in temperature is perfectly natural (and possibly even beneficial). A visit to areas where these tortoises come from would confirm that lower temperatures at night time are very common. I’m relieved to see the hermann’s caresheet often referred to on here does suggest a night-time drop of up to 15* is acceptable. (Maybe a different story if we were talking about a tropical tortoise such as a Redfoot coming from an area where temps are more constant day and night)
Baby tortoises require warmer temps all day as they don’t have the mass to maintain warmth they acquired during the day.
Not really true for all species. Russians and Hermanns are two that can take cooler night temps. I don't know all that can.
 

wellington

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jso

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Not really true for all species. Russians and Hermanns are two that can take cooler night temps. I don't know all that can.
Quite. Testudo graeca would also experience cold nights, especially graeca ibera living at higher altitudes...
It’s important that advice about set-ups is related to the species being kept.
 
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jso

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Baby tortoises require warmer temps all day as they don’t have the mass to maintain warmth they acquired during the day.
They don’t need to maintain their warmth. They’re not mammals. They cool down at night, and warm up again in the daytime. I think it’s called beng ectothermic? That’s how they survive in nature with no-one looking after them.
 

Little Yovu

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If you are at all handy, you can fabricate a plywood lid for your enclosure. Cut holes where your lights and CHE go, etc. I made & used a wooden lid like this on our sully’s enclosure & it worked perfectly fine. The plywood provides a very firm, hard structure to mount or hang lights or set lights / CHE on. I actually made my lid like an aquarium lid, the front 1/3 was on hinges and lifted up for easy access for food & waterin*, the back 2/3 stayed still & held the CHE & lights.
Can you please post pictures?
 

wellington

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Quite. Testudo graeca would also experience cold nights, especially graeca ibera living at higher altitudes...
It’s important that advice about set-ups is related to the species being kept.
Yes it is and I'm not the one that gave the wrong temp advice.
 

jso

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Im sure his tort would be fine with his tort at 80 during the night, but its not natural
True. And I wonder what the long-term effects would be of running a diurnal tortoise at constant daytime temperatures during the night? Actually they can cope with night-time temperatures even lower than low 70s : low 60s would be ok. Mine, when they’re indoors, do well with normal room temperatures at night time. No extra night time heating.
 

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