Lower the humidity

Scythlz

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Devon
Hey guys, just wanted to ask for any advice with this. I recently got a 1 year old marginated tortoise, during the daytimes the warm side humidity of her table is around 50%, directly under the lamp is around 40% and the cool side 60-70%. With a humid hide of around 80-85%. During the night time the humidity shoot’s up to 89-95%, especially high on the cool side in the closed section of the table which is where she tends to sleep. Has anyone got any tricks for lowering night time humidity? I assume this is way too high for her at night. I’ve dried out the substrate and it still shoots up at night. Just don’t want to cause her any health issues. This past night I propped open the lid on the closed side and it did drop the humidity to about 78% but that still seems a bit high at night I’d assume.
 

COmtnLady

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
4,300
Location (City and/or State)
Colorado
Welcome to The Tortoise Forum!

You don't want to lower the humidity. All species of tortoises need high heat and humidity until they are two or three years old. 'General rule of thumb is mid 80s for both humidity and temperature, in an enclosed habitat to assist the control of such.

Here is a link to a discussion concerning this (though specific to another species) which might help to read.

Also, please read this:



Several of the experienced members here have done decades of comparative studies concerning the best ways to raise various species of tortoises for optimal health and long lives. The info you will find here is different from what you will find from other sources, it is also much better. Everyone here will do all they can to help you help your tortoise thrive. For your own peace of mind, disregard info you will find on FB, Reddit and so on, also from most pet stores, many veterinarians, and so many other sources. They share the older outdated recommendations that are not as good for your hatchling.


Please poke around the site. Here's an older Marginated thread to get you started ~




@Tom
 

Scythlz

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Devon
Welcome to The Tortoise Forum!

You don't want to lower the humidity. All species of tortoises need high heat and humidity until they are two or three years old. 'General rule of thumb is mid 80s for both humidity and temperature, in an enclosed habitat to assist the control of such.

Here is a link to a discussion concerning this (though specific to another species) which might help to read.

Also, please read this:



Several of the experienced members here have done decades of comparative studies concerning the best ways to raise various species of tortoises for optimal health and long lives. The info you will find here is different from what you will find from other sources, it is also much better. Everyone here will do all they can to help you help your tortoise thrive. For your own peace of mind, disregard info you will find on FB, Reddit and so on, also from most pet stores, many veterinarians, and so many other sources. They share the older outdated recommendations that are not as good for your hatchling.


Please poke around the site. Here's an older Marginated thread to get you started ~




@Tom
Ah awesome thanks so much. I saw so much info everywhere about marginateds needing lower humidity I got pretty worried about my night time humidity causing any respiratory issues.

So I guess there’s no need to change anything then? I assume the daytime humidity gradients around the enclosure is all okay? Just to add my basking spot is 34c, warm side is 29-30c and the cool side hovers around 24-25c
 

COmtnLady

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
4,300
Location (City and/or State)
Colorado
Keeping an adult is different than a hatchling or juvenile. How about posting some pictures of your enclosure. What lights are you using, what sorts of substrate, how are you doing the humidity, please share all the details.

Here's some general stuff to peruse ~

 

Scythlz

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Devon
Thanks for your help I really appreciate it :) yeah I’ve had an adult horsfield before but this is my first time having anything under 6/7 years old so just want to make sure I get things right for her. She’s eating very well and passing stool in her baths. (she’s soaked daily) so I assume health wise she’s doing great, at least it seems.
I’m using coco coir for substrate.
In terms of lighting I have an Arcadia 100w uva running on a habistat dimming thermostat at 34c and the T5 Desert uvb. I have ordered a microclimate higher temperature b1 dimming thermostat just so I have a bit higher control on temps if basking around 36c is preferred. I have a plastic pot filled with sphagnum moss for a humid hide too. I’ve just been daily misting a few times and poured some water into the substrate if needed. And I’ve got a large log covered in artificial plants with an extra layer of deep substrate underneath the back to try and provide a deep shade area for her. I’ll grab some photos.
I’ll be building a larger table for her within the next year.

(Just seen 2 of the photos keep attaching upside down, not sure why)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0953.jpeg
    IMG_0953.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_0956.jpeg
    IMG_0956.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_0955.jpeg
    IMG_0955.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_0954.jpeg
    IMG_0954.jpeg
    3.4 MB · Views: 1

COmtnLady

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
4,300
Location (City and/or State)
Colorado
Misting and moss are problems.

Mosses are either intestinal impaction hazards or have a bad pH for the tort to be walking on. Remove the mosses.

Misters, foggers, humidifiers, sprayers all put out droplets, not humidity. The droplets are too big for your tort to be breathing and can cause respiratory problems. They also cool down the enclosure via evaporative cooling. To maintain humidity the substrate needs to hold the water and allow it to disperse upwards through the substrate. Its also easier this way.

We recommend using terracotta plant saucers for water and feeding. The rough surface of the terracotta gives the little tortoise some traction and the edges of the saucer tend to slant outward (as opposed to the plastic dishes pet shops sell - which are slick when wet, the slippery surface is hard on joints and muscles when a foot suddenly slides out from under; the gray plastic dishes usually have vertical sides which are difficult to for your tortoise to get out of/over easily; and can be tip-over and drowning hazards because of having to stand up too straight to get over and lose balance in the process). The terracotta also wears off nails and beaks a bit and makes taking care of those easier.

Tortoises are like little humans and put everything in their mouths. Because of this it isn't good to have plastic plants within reach of a tort.

It is better to get the coco coir that does NOT have long fibers. They don't digest, which makes those fibers an impaction hazard.

Also, you may encounter some problems with the surface of the substrate when it dries out. It is a bit like sawdust and can irritate breathing and eyes. Lots of keepers are happy to use it as you are, but I like to have a layer of fine-grade orchid/fir bark on top to keep the "dusty" part of it under control. I use about three inches of coco coir that is damp (even wet for the lowest inch or so) with a couple inches of bark on top. You don't need to change substrate much at all, so once its set up and holding the humidity where I want it. I occasionally throe some more bark on top as what's there gets walked down into the lower level.

What do you put over the top to keep heat and humidity in?
 

COmtnLady

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
4,300
Location (City and/or State)
Colorado
FYI - I have never needed to trim nails because I use terracotta and have a flat paving stone in the enclosure that has a surface similar to sandstone or the terracotta. The picture shows the results. I have never needed to clip nails.
 

Attachments

  • Yertie's nails.jpg
    Yertie's nails.jpg
    71.5 KB · Views: 2

Scythlz

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Devon
Misting and moss are problems.

Mosses are either intestinal impaction hazards or have a bad pH for the tort to be walking on. Remove the mosses.

Misters, foggers, humidifiers, sprayers all put out droplets, not humidity. The droplets are too big for your tort to be breathing and can cause respiratory problems. They also cool down the enclosure via evaporative cooling. To maintain humidity the substrate needs to hold the water and allow it to disperse upwards through the substrate. Its also easier this way.

We recommend using terracotta plant saucers for water and feeding. The rough surface of the terracotta gives the little tortoise some traction and the edges of the saucer tend to slant outward (as opposed to the plastic dishes pet shops sell - which are slick when wet, the slippery surface is hard on joints and muscles when a foot suddenly slides out from under; the gray plastic dishes usually have vertical sides which are difficult to for your tortoise to get out of/over easily; and can be tip-over and drowning hazards because of having to stand up too straight to get over and lose balance in the process). The terracotta also wears off nails and beaks a bit and makes taking care of those easier.

Tortoises are like little humans and put everything in their mouths. Because of this it isn't good to have plastic plants within reach of a tort.

It is better to get the coco coir that does NOT have long fibers. They don't digest, which makes those fibers an impaction hazard.

Also, you may encounter some problems with the surface of the substrate when it dries out. It is a bit like sawdust and can irritate breathing and eyes. Lots of keepers are happy to use it as you are, but I like to have a layer of fine-grade orchid/fir bark on top to keep the "dusty" part of it under control. I use about three inches of coco coir that is damp (even wet for the lowest inch or so) with a couple inches of bark on top. You don't need to change substrate much at all, so once its set up and holding the humidity where I want it. I occasionally throe some more bark on top as what's there gets walked down into the lower level.

What do you put over the top to keep heat and humidity in?
Ah okay thank you. So I assume in terms of keeping up the humidity I’ll just pour water into the substrate instead of spraying the enclosure?

I’ll remove the moss and grab a terrocotta saucer and grab some orchid bark to put a layer on top then.

I haven’t put anything over the top, except obviously it’s one of those tables that has the sleeping/cave area with a wooden lid. I’ve just got multiple hygrometers in the enclosure to try and check every section of it and a couple in the room to monitor my rooms ambient humidty which often is around 60%.

Also, sorry for all the questions, if moss isn’t a good idea what should I use to create a humid hide? Just a thicker more moist layer of substrate in that area?
 
Last edited:

COmtnLady

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
4,300
Location (City and/or State)
Colorado
Ah okay thank you. So I assume in terms of keeping up the humidity I’ll just pour water into the substrate instead of spraying the enclosure?

I’ll remove the moss and grab a terrocotta saucer and grab some orchid bark to put a layer on top then.

I haven’t put anything over the top, except obviously it’s one of those tables that has the sleeping/cave area with a wooden lid. I’ve just got multiple hygrometers in the enclosure to try and check every section of it and a couple in the room to monitor my rooms ambient humidty

Once you have the humidity under control you may not need a humid hide because the needed humidity will already be there, but if you did want one, I'd focus on pouring water into the substrate close to the hide.

Yes, pour the water into the corners. It would be good to get all of the surface moist, but easier once there's bark on top so it doesn't get muddy. You pour into corners so that most of the surface is relatively dry. Strive for a balance between wet enough to humidify and dry enough that you don't worry about fungus.

Without a top to hold heat and humidity in there is no practical way to control either. To paraphrase one of our most knowledgeable members, "Without a top on your enclosure, its like trying to heat your house in the winter with no roof on it." It would become a 24/7 hobby to keep the humidity right.
Here's how I set up my substrate (thanks to many here) to give you an idea what you are trying to accomplish :
I buy the coco coir in the 3-brick packages which are a little cheaper and store more easy to store than the loose type.

Then I use a very clean, definitely does not have any soap or other type of residue, five gallon bucket (I have two five gallon buckets dedicated to only tortoise substrate, nothing else).

Fill it about half-to-2/3 full of warm water and submerge one of the bricks. Allow it to soak until it has completely fallen apart, with no hard lumps left. You may have to add more water if it expands above the waterline.

Hand-wring-out as much of the water as possible and pack it tightly into the bottom of the enclosure. Begin at one end and work your way to the other end, so that you can see if you got enough of the water out. You don't want standing water visible, especially not when you are finished.

Pack the damp coco coir about three inches deep.

Next put a two to three inch layer of Orchid Bark/Fir Bark on top and pat it down - this doesn't have to be packed as firmly as the coir, but pat it down until it feels even and solid. Some use Cyprus Mulch instead, which is just as good, but I don't care for the swampy smell of the Cyprus Mulch and it seems to be bigger piece with sharp ends.

Close your enclosure and let it acclimate for several hours, then measure the humidity and heat. If it is too humid when you check, vent it until it is in the range that's best for you tortoise with the lid closed. If not humid enough (usually 84% and 84F for hatchlings of all species) add more water in the corners.

Once its stable, put your tortoise into its new home.


Did you put a liner inside your enclosure when setting it up? If not, this may become a bit of a project. If your enclosure is like most of the similar-looking ones over here, having actual damp substrate will create leaks all over your floor. Pond Liners, thick shower curtains, pieces of construction weight plastic sheets all make good liners. Take the substrate out and line the enclosure. If it is the kind of enclosure that has a formica-like finish, you might be able to seal all the places where two pieces come together with silicon instead of using a liner, but in either case, you need to think about containing wetness.

Then put soak the substrate and wring it out by hand, FIRMLY pack it in as above.

Don't get discouraged. Once its set up and stable it won't need done again until you change to a different enclosure.





Here are some ideas to look at for top inspirations :
 

Scythlz

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Devon
Once you have the humidity under control you may not need a humid hide because the needed humidity will already be there, but if you did want one, I'd focus on pouring water into the substrate close to the hide.

Yes, pour the water into the corners. It would be good to get all of the surface moist, but easier once there's bark on top so it doesn't get muddy. You pour into corners so that most of the surface is relatively dry. Strive for a balance between wet enough to humidify and dry enough that you don't worry about fungus.

Without a top to hold heat and humidity in there is no practical way to control either. To paraphrase one of our most knowledgeable members, "Without a top on your enclosure, its like trying to heat your house in the winter with no roof on it." It would become a 24/7 hobby to keep the humidity right.
Here's how I set up my substrate (thanks to many here) to give you an idea what you are trying to accomplish :



Did you put a liner inside your enclosure when setting it up? If not, this may become a bit of a project. If your enclosure is like most of the similar-looking ones over here, having actual damp substrate will create leaks all over your floor. Pond Liners, thick shower curtains, pieces of construction weight plastic sheets all make good liners. Take the substrate out and line the enclosure. If it is the kind of enclosure that has a formica-like finish, you might be able to seal all the places where two pieces come together with silicon instead of using a liner, but in either case, you need to think about containing wetness.

Then put soak the substrate and wring it out by hand, FIRMLY pack it in as above.

Don't get discouraged. Once its set up and stable it won't need done again until you change to a different enclosure.





Here are some ideas to look at for top inspirations :
Thanks so much for all your help I really appreciate it. :)

I could potentially have the option to buy a 6x4 vivarium from a friend, I assume in reality this would be the easiest/best option for her while she’s 1? What sort of age would I be looking to move her back to an open enclosure if I did purchase a Viv?

Thanks so much again!
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
68,417
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Thanks so much for all your help I really appreciate it. :)

I could potentially have the option to buy a 6x4 vivarium from a friend, I assume in reality this would be the easiest/best option for her while she’s 1? What sort of age would I be looking to move her back to an open enclosure if I did purchase a Viv?

Thanks so much again!
All good advice from @COmtnLady Almost all of the tortoise care info you find from most sources is just plain wrong. So much confusing and contradictory info. We all did it so wrong for so many decades and that old wrong info is just ingrained and persistent. You've now found the right info. :)

With an open top, your humidity is always going to be too low for a growing baby. The heat and electric lights dry out the air, so when they go off at night, humidity rises. This is just physics, and its all fine and normal for your tortoise.

Closed chambers (vivs) with the heating and lighting inside, are a much better way to go and produce superior results. These can be used for any age tortoise, and it simply makes maintaining the correct humidity and temperatures easier. As an adult, your tortoise can certainly survive in an open topped tortoise table, but will do better in a large closed chamber.

Southdown Aquatics makes affordable large closed chambers in the UK. I've heard nothing but good about them from our UK members.

I would not use a dimming thermostat on the basking bulb. You don't want the "sun" dimming all day. Those thermostats are for maintaining ambient heat. Your basking heat should be on a timer, and you adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the fixture, or the wattage.
 

Scythlz

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Devon
All good advice from @COmtnLady Almost all of the tortoise care info you find from most sources is just plain wrong. So much confusing and contradictory info. We all did it so wrong for so many decades and that old wrong info is just ingrained and persistent. You've now found the right info. :)

With an open top, your humidity is always going to be too low for a growing baby. The heat and electric lights dry out the air, so when they go off at night, humidity rises. This is just physics, and its all fine and normal for your tortoise.

Closed chambers (vivs) with the heating and lighting inside, are a much better way to go and produce superior results. These can be used for any age tortoise, and it simply makes maintaining the correct humidity and temperatures easier. As an adult, your tortoise can certainly survive in an open topped tortoise table, but will do better in a large closed chamber.

Southdown Aquatics makes affordable large closed chambers in the UK. I've heard nothing but good about them from our UK members.

I would not use a dimming thermostat on the basking bulb. You don't want the "sun" dimming all day. Those thermostats are for maintaining ambient heat. Your basking heat should be on a timer, and you adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the fixture, or the wattage.
Thanks so much. I really appreciate all the advice.
I’m popping to the wood shop tomorrow to make a “roof” for the tortoise table for now, will see how that goes if not I will be investing in a vivarium one way or another haha!
 

Scythlz

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Devon
Just to add an update, I’ve got a small walk in greenhouse I’m placing over the table today which should do the job nicely.

My next question is, nighttime heat. Currently it’s fine as it’s about 21c at night in her sleeping area but over the next week or so here where I am in the UK it’s looking like night time temperatures are dropping dramatically.

Would I be better off with a heat mat stuck to the roof of her sleeping area on a thermostat or a deep heat projector on a thermostat just outside the sleeping enclosure?
 

The_Four_Toed_Edward

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2024
Messages
6,236
Location (City and/or State)
Finland
Just to add an update, I’ve got a small walk in greenhouse I’m placing over the table today which should do the job nicely.

My next question is, nighttime heat. Currently it’s fine as it’s about 21c at night in her sleeping area but over the next week or so here where I am in the UK it’s looking like night time temperatures are dropping dramatically.

Would I be better off with a heat mat stuck to the roof of her sleeping area on a thermostat or a deep heat projector on a thermostat just outside the sleeping enclosure?
For indoor heating a smaller tortoise in a closed chamber, I believe ceramic heat emitters (CHE) on thermostats are recommended.
 

Scythlz

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2025
Messages
8
Location (City and/or State)
Devon
For indoor heating a smaller tortoise in a closed chamber, I believe ceramic heat emitters (CHE) on thermostats are recommended.
Thankyou! I’ve purchased a CHE and another thermostat for it, I don’t think I’ll be needing it anytime soon but would rather have it hooked up to the thermostat so it’s there to kick in if needed :)
 

New Posts

Top