Humidity questions

Status
Not open for further replies.

DanaLachney

New Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
892
Ok I know I've seen alot of threads on humidity lately but some of them get run together and I'm seeing different things as responses. So my question is this. My enclosure is covered comepletely with two holes one for the CHE and one for the light. My substrate is VERY moist but my ambient humidity only stays around 60% at most unless I spray it then it rises to 80-90% for a few minutes then falls back down again. I have no way of checking the humidity inside the hide either. Is my humidity fine or do I need and an under the tank heater? Also the substrate isn't very warm. And I don't want her to get shell rot I've seen so many conflicting things on this subject.
 

Madkins007

Well-Known Member
Moderator
10 Year Member!
Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Messages
5,393
Location (City and/or State)
Nebraska
Humidity is a combination of water and heat. Just wetting a cool surface, such as the substrate, does not automatically mean high humidity. If your main heat source is some sort of bulb, then it will heat and dry the very top surfaces and convert that to humidity. Then, it will depend on the substrates's ability to wick new moisture to the top to keep the process going.

In my experience, if the substrate is 'clammy' (damp and cool), it both does not generate much humidity, and is not great for the torts.

If you rig up any of a dozen types of humidifiers in your habitat, you can often forego both the wet substrate and the frequent misting.

I'll also point out that in most situations, the habitat is either covered or not. It does not take much of an opening for lots of heated, humidified air to rise up out of. Even a few air holes can let lots of the good air escape. Of course, that also means that clean, fresh air is entering as well.
 

jesst

New Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2011
Messages
602
Location (City and/or State)
Florida
I use closed chamber enclosure with front opening doors for both of my torts and the humidity neber.gets below 70%. Since hot air rises, you are losing the good air out of your light holes.
 

DanaLachney

New Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
892
Madkins007 said:
Humidity is a combination of water and heat. Just wetting a cool surface, such as the substrate, does not automatically mean high humidity. If your main heat source is some sort of bulb, then it will heat and dry the very top surfaces and convert that to humidity. Then, it will depend on the substrates's ability to wick new moisture to the top to keep the process going.

In my experience, if the substrate is 'clammy' (damp and cool), it both does not generate much humidity, and is not great for the torts.

If you rig up any of a dozen types of humidifiers in your habitat, you can often forego both the wet substrate and the frequent misting.

I'll also point out that in most situations, the habitat is either covered or not. It does not take much of an opening for lots of heated, humidified air to rise up out of. Even a few air holes can let lots of the good air escape. Of course, that also means that clean, fresh air is entering as well.

I have two sources of heat my 60W CHE which sits directly on top of the enclosure and my 60w Flukers daylight bulb. I'm using two bricks of tropical soil and organic top soil. But my question was does the overall ambient humidity need to be at 80% 24/7 or should I am to keep the humidity inside the hide at 80% if need be I CAN buy an under the tank heater for that section of the enclosure. I know the substrate needs to be warm but my ambient temperatures inside the enclosure are already at 90 degrees during the day and 80 degrees at night. I can't go any warmer to heat up the substrate without risking the enclosure being too warm. So should I allow the substrate to dry out some to heat it up? Or just go ahead and buy an under the tank heater?
 

kimber_lee_314

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
2,628
Location (City and/or State)
So Cal
I'm not sure about your question, but I can say that I keep my humidity up by pouring water in the corners of the inside enclosures. The water wets the soil underneath and keeps the top layer dry (mostly - some areas still get damp.) Then I mist a couple times a day (whenever I happen to go into the room.) I use mvb's and that's it. This has been successful for me. I don't think the humidity has to be 80% at all times. In the wild, this doesn't happen. Of course we want to replicate things as much as possible, but as long as things are going well, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I'm not sure what kind of tortoises were talking about here, but this works even for my Cherryheads. Hope that was helpful!
 

DanaLachney

New Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
892
She is a redfoot :) I've decided to let my substrate dry out a bit then start over. I hope it doesn't take to long. She is about a year to a year and a half old. And I soak her every other day and mist her several times a day. She also drinks ALOT so she is staying hydrated in my opinion.
 

Madkins007

Well-Known Member
Moderator
10 Year Member!
Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Messages
5,393
Location (City and/or State)
Nebraska
The southern types of red-footed tortoises, like the classic 'cherry-head', can easily manage if the overall humidity is 40-60% with some hides or microclimates that are 90%ish.

The more common northern types (with the light-colored plastrons) are a little more sensitive, but even they should be OK in a situation like that above.
 

DanaLachney

New Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
892
Madkins007 said:
The southern types of red-footed tortoises, like the classic 'cherry-head', can easily manage if the overall humidity is 40-60% with some hides or microclimates that are 90%ish.

The more common northern types (with the light-colored plastrons) are a little more sensitive, but even they should be OK in a situation like that above.

Ok thank u :) I've been working very hard to make sure it was right! Lol
 

tortadise

Well-Known Member
Moderator
10 Year Member!
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Messages
9,548
Location (City and/or State)
Tropical South Texas
What kind of enclosure is it? If its an aquarium you can pull the mulch out add about 4-5" of pea gravel fill the water up to the top of the gravel put the mulch back in at least a few inches and use heat pads underneath. This will simulate ground moisture and increase the humidity a lot. Theheat pads will warm the water in the gravel and humidify the entire enclosure. And in one corner place a small piece of pipe so you can fill up the gravel without soaking the mulch.

Oh and make sure if you want to use this method to put some filter fabric (weed mat works good) before you put the mulch on top of the gravel so itmakes it easier to just pull the mat up with the mulch when you need to clean the whole enclure out.
 

DanaLachney

New Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
892
tortadise said:
What kind of enclosure is it? If its an aquarium you can pull the mulch out add about 4-5" of pea gravel fill the water up to the top of the gravel put the mulch back in at least a few inches and use heat pads underneath. This will simulate ground moisture and increase the humidity a lot. Theheat pads will warm the water in the gravel and humidify the entire enclosure. And in one corner place a small piece of pipe so you can fill up the gravel without soaking the mulch.

Oh and make sure if you want to use this method to put some filter fabric (weed mat works good) before you put the mulch on top of the gravel so itmakes it easier to just pull the mat up with the mulch when you need to clean the whole enclure out.





image-3551405344.png





image-3076992807.png



Sorry idk why it does that sometimes but sometimes the pics don't show up at first -.(\ but anyway this is my enclosure would this method still work?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top