humidity issues still !!! help please

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heyprettyrave

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so i have a wooden enclosure, it probably only gets up to around the high sixties in there for humidity. i have a humidifier and some plants. Ophelia my large tortoise, has pyramided, and it looks worse than it was before. so im concerned. im really looking for any tips you guys can give.....

i was wondering if lining the inside of the enclosure with plexi would keep the humidity from escaping from the wood???
 

LindaF

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Can you post a picture of your enclosure? Is it all open on top?
 

heyprettyrave

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its not open at the top at all, except where the cords for the lights go into the enclosure. im using a humidity/temp gauge i got from walmart, it seems to work pretty well
 

terryo

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Wood is porous and maybe that's why your humidity is escaping. If you line it with the Plexiglas it might become more like a vivarium and hold in the humidity better.
 

Scirish

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I agree with Terryo. You for sure want to line it with something. Plexiglas would probably be pretty easy and would for sure keep the humidity in.
 

Len B

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You could also use those peel and stick 12x12 vinyl floor tiles, easy to work with and many different colors and designs.And easy to clean. Len
 

Madkins007

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Wood is not all THAT dang porous. They use it to line saunas, etc. If yours IS that absorptive, you should be able to just paint it or cover it with a tough plastic (I like blue tarp stuff!)

Becoming more pyramided may just mean you are seeing old cares now showing up- it takes a while for pyramids to show.

A good photo would really help- size of humidifier, amount it is putting out, temps, air flow in the habitat, etc. all affect the humidity.

It really bothers me that you are still struggling so much. If you would like, you can email me (or many of the other experienced keepers, I am sure) and I'll try to help out more specifically. I'll even give you my phone number if it will help. Good photos, however, would really make even that a lot easier.
 

heyprettyrave

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I really appreciate your helping me, im not really sure why im still having problems. I kept an eye on it today and it got up to the mid 70's, tmrw i plan on going to lowes and getting some kind of linoleum to put on the walls of her enclosure, im hoping this will help
 

heyprettyrave

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i have a mold on the ceiling now...

DSCN1425.jpg

DSCN1423.jpg


and i have three of these sized holes on the ceiling
DSCN1424.jpg
 

Madkins007

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Ah ha!- I would bet that all the nice, warm, humid air is being 'chimneyed' out the vent holes in top.

Hot air rises, and the humidity is 'attached' to the hot air, so I'd bet that your temps and humidity climb rapidly as you measure it closer to the ceiling- as evidenced by the moisture dripping off up there. I also bet you can feel streams of warm moist air escaping from your vent holes.

Try this: Cover the top vents. Cut some vents down real low on two opposite sides- either several 1/4" or so holes, or a couple larger ones with some screen over them.

This will allow fresh air flow into and out of the habitat, but it also forces the hot, moist air to 'fill in' the habitat from the top down.

Open the top vents periodicially to 'flush' out excess moisture that might cause molds or bad air (opening the doors will also do this, obviously.)



When it is time to remodel, you might try a few different things. None are a big enough deal to rip up what you have- just some things to make things easier or more interesting for you and the tort...

1. Put the box on short legs to lift it off the ground, make it easier to work inside, and easier to see the tortoises. (You can also store your supplies neatly under it that way.)

2. Make the front opening larger. You can pretty much cut out the entire front and replace it with a couple clear plastic doors. When I had a similar habitat, I used some plastic sliding door track from Amazon and just slid two big plexiglass panels for access.) Bigger openings look more open and allow better viewing.

3, Consider heating ropes. Using properly installed, waterproof heating cables under the substrate means you get more gentle warmth in the habitat, and that watering the substrate results in great humidity. Because this kind of heat and humidity flows upwards past the animals, it is OK to have roof vents.

4. Have more fun with interior decorating. Prop a board across one whole end so one end is on the ground and the other is propped up a few inches higher than your tallest tort. This offers more hide space, and some climbing space. Make a pile of substrate in a corner or two to climb and explore, and bury a hide in the pile. More plants (especially hanging ones that make 'curtains' they can hide behind), big spa/pool, etc. The more it can explore, climb, learn, etc., the better for brain development and healthy growth.
 

heyprettyrave

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yeah i will try this :) thank you for your help and yeah i will def be getting some more plants here soon enough, they all just die off soooooo fast
 

Madkins007

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TerryO is the person for terrarium plant advice, but I leave mine in clay pots, partially buried in the substrate. After that, it is just a matter of finding the least killable plants I can for me!
 

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I was wondering how it would work out being so tall, I'd like to make a tall enclosure as well, but as Mark noted, heat and humidity rise.

Another idea that popped into my head just now would be to add a pipe and fan to recirculate the air. You don't want or need a very powerful fan, we don't need breezes, something small and quiet. If you then draw the hot air back down to the bottom it should really improve your heat and humidity distribution. I've seen these sort of setups in greenhouses.

I've had trouble with plants as well. If you really achieve your goals of a tropical environment, most common plants die. I thought dandelions could live anywhere.... they can't... haha.

So far I've had the best luck with prayer plants. These are a great choice, they're non-toxic and its no wonder they do well, they come from the south american rain-forest.

Ficus shrubs do well also, another tropical plant, I could never get them to do well in the house, but they grow like crazy in the tort enclosure. Technically these aren't considered tort safe, so I try not to let them eat too many of the leaves.

I haven't tried them in the enclosure yet, but Hibiscus should do well. These of course are a tort favorite and you have plenty of room for one. They do require more intense lighting though for good growth.

Parlor Palms are a wash for me. They are growing but VERY slowly. If you start with a large enough one for your needs and don't let the torts destroy it (as mine did), it should do well.

I recently added some spider plants. After a hard die-back they're springing to life and look like they'll do well. Any leaf that touches the substrate dies, kinda strange. They're tort safe, but the torts really love to eat them, so I keep the bulk of the plant out of their reach, and as leaves grow long enough for them to nibble on they trim them back.
 

terryo

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I put some begonia and pansies which last for the little guy, but Pio loves them and will eat them right down to the soil. Rose of Sharon seeds are great because they sprout fast. The little sprouts do well, until Pio eats them. I also throw in some spring mix seeds. They grow pretty fast and he loves them. Creeping Jenny is great because they can walk on them, and not destroy them. Those tropical Palm trees are great too..can't think of their name.....They grow tall, and they usually last. I love pothos because they grow up towards the light and spread.


"Any leaf that touches the substrate dies, kinda strange."

I usually take the bottom leaves off, because if they touch the substrate where there is urine then eventually the whole plant usually dies.
 

heyprettyrave

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soo... i covered the top holes with plexi, and i opened the window that i have near the middle level. im going to move the humidifier to the other side(because right now its by the window) and see how it goes :)
 

Madkins007

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Great- just don't open the window too much.

Terry- great info- thanks!
 

heyprettyrave

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should i have the window, partially closed? will that get enough air ventilation?
 

Madkins007

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They need clean, fresh air but that does not take a lot. The bigger the openings, the fresher the air, but also the more heat/humidity loss. I usually go by condensation and smell. No condensation usually means I am loosing too much heat and humidity so I close it up. A bad smell means I have too little circulation and need to open things up.

I usually find that I can open the whole habitat up for the morning feeding, and again for the evening cleaning, and then have a little additional airflow during the day and be OK.


If the air is not fresh enough or you are still getting mold, you can try a high/low option. Drill a few 1/4" holes on two opposite sides down low, and a couple 3/16" holes up high. The hot, moist air will travel up and out the small holes, but only slowly because of their small size. As air leaves the high holes, it will be drawn into the lower holes.

Another option, as Balboa has said, is a way to circulate the air better inside the habitat- like a ceiling fan would do. Some small diameter dryer-like duct and a small fan could be rigged so one end of the duct is up high and the small fan is mounted in this end, blowing air into the other end which I personally would sort of bury lightly in the substrate so it is not blowing on the torts.
 
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