HELP please baby Russian and puffy eyes

[Mrturtle527]

I have had my baby t since late June (he hatched late May) and I have been caring for him the same way the entire time. However this morning when I picked him up to bring him outside I noticed he did not want to open one of his eyes. I Immediately soaked him and ran some warm water on his face which helped a little. Later this afternoon when I was bringing him inside it appeared his eyes were puffy.

Inside enclosure - zilla tube light with a ceramic heat bulb. Basking spot is appx 90-95 and the cool end is appx 75. Humidity is between 45-70 depending on the time of day. Substrate is coco coir and a little repti bark. Diet is mixed greens with calcium sprinkled on every couple days.

Outside enclosure - same substrate with some grass to graze on and a couple hides. He is in a late bin outside as he kept getting lost the garden.

His eye i am worried about


His shell which I think looks good


His outdoor home


His indoor home

 

[wellington]

Is the bulbs bran new? Could the light be too close for the top level? What is the exact kind of zilla light? 5.0 10.0 or compact? Or something else?

 

[Mrturtle527]

Is the bulbs bran new? Could the light be too close for the top level? What is the exact kind of zilla light? 5.0 10.0 or compact? Or something else?

I was wondering the same thing - if it was too close. Here is the info on both lights

Zilla 17watt -t8 - bp. Tropical 25. It is a 30" single tube strip light
Heat is a 100w heat emitter model ce-190.

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Is the bulbs bran new? Could the light be too close for the top level? What is the exact kind of zilla light? 5.0 10.0 or compact? Or something else?

I was wondering the same thing - if it was too close. Here is the info on both lights

Zilla 17watt -t8 - bp. Tropical 25. It is a 30" single tube strip light
Heat is a 100w heat emitter model ce-190.

And no they have been being used since I got him

 

[wellington]

I am not familiar with this bulbs. However the zilla site recommends for Russians the
Desert 50 UVB Fluorescent Bulb
Ideal for Desert Dwelling Reptiles: Bearded Dragons, Uromastyx, Frilled Dragons, Horned Lizards, Collared Lizards, Chuckwallas, Sulcata Tortoises, Leopard Tortoises, Russian Tortoises, Savannah Monitors and Nile Monitors

I don't really know if the one you have would make a difference or not, seeing you have been using it for a while and only now having a problem. Is the light older then 6 months? Fluorescents need to be replaced every 6 months.

Hopefully someone will have some ideas about the lighting or what could be going on. Good luck. Hope all works out okay.

 

[Mrturtle527]

I am not familiar with this bulbs. However the zilla site recommends for Russians the
Desert 50 UVB Fluorescent Bulb
Ideal for Desert Dwelling Reptiles: Bearded Dragons, Uromastyx, Frilled Dragons, Horned Lizards, Collared Lizards, Chuckwallas, Sulcata Tortoises, Leopard Tortoises, Russian Tortoises, Savannah Monitors and Nile Monitors

I don't really know if the one you have would make a difference or not, seeing you have been using it for a while and only now having a problem. Is the light older then 6 months? Fluorescents need to be replaced every 6 months.

Hopefully someone will have some ideas about the lighting or what could be going on. Good luck. Hope all works out okay.

Thanks!!! I'll be updating tomorrow on what's happening and if I'm too worried he will see the vet .

I'm thinking he might have something in his eye, dust maybe, so I'll keep soaking him and rinsing him a couple times a day and make sure his substrate is moist.


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[ascott]

Is he active? Is he eating as much as he usually does? What is his diet? is he housed alone or as a pair?

I would not let the night/cool end temp drop into the 70s if you are keeping the humidity high like you shared...bad recipe for illness, especially in this species...

 

[WillTort2]

Because your Russian is young, I like the idea of keeping the humidity a little higher than for adults. But, from what I've read and experienced, you do need to keep the temperature closer to 80 degrees if the humidity is near 70% or higher.

I'm thinking you need to move the CHE to the other end of the tank. I feel that the temperature is going to be too warm at the small distance from the upper level to the CHE.

Try various heights until you get the basking temperature you need. I use a light bulb to get my basking temperature for daytime and then use the CHE to maintain temperature at night; but you may not have room for both.

Do you have a temperature gun?

 

[Mrturtle527]

Is he active? Is he eating as much as he usually does? What is his diet? is he housed alone or as a pair?

I would not let the night/cool end temp drop into the 70s if you are keeping the humidity high like you shared...bad recipe for illness, especially in this species...

He is active and eating. I will make sure his temps stay high enough at night and drop the humidity a bit.


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Because your Russian is young, I like the idea of keeping the humidity a little higher than for adults. But, from what I've read and experienced, you do need to keep the temperature closer to 80 degrees if the humidity is near 70% or higher.

I'm thinking you need to move the CHE to the other end of the tank. I feel that the temperature is going to be too warm at the small distance from the upper level to the CHE.

Try various heights until you get the basking temperature you need. I use a light bulb to get my basking temperature for daytime and then use the CHE to maintain temperature at night; but you may not have room for both.

Do you have a temperature gun?

Time to refresh his home a bit it looks like. I will do that tomorrow and monitor the temps a bit more closely as well as the humidity.




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So baby ts eye was not as puffy today but he still favored it. He is eating and active in both his homes. I'll be removing his 2nd floor for now and see if the heat/UVB is too close up there (he does love it up there... Maybe ill just find a way to lower it.

Thanks for all the feedback!


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