Enclosure for new leopards

bprimm

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Joined
Aug 9, 2018
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11
Location (City and/or State)
Corona
Hello all. Got two new baby leopards. One is a couple weeks and the other is 4 months. Just wondering if the enclosure is good and if it’s too much heat? The left heat lamp is hooked to a thermostat that keeps it at 98 during day and 80 at night( placed near house so that temp is about 78 At night). The heat lamp on right is connected to a timer with the 10.0 uvb light on the far right from 9 am to 8pm. The temp there has a hot spot of about120 but the near surroundings are 99-108 ish. The edges and corners register in the mid 70’s with some spots at mid 80s. So seems to be room to regulate temps. Should I leave out the right heater or no? Any suggestions help. Also leave humidifier on most of the day which gives the right side a humidity of 50-75 % and the rest reads around 40-55). IMG_1558550700.134537.jpg
 

bprimm

New Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2018
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Corona
Update: moved right lamp up so hottest temp there is 105 and figured out that I have to put the thermostat a oil in soil for accurate temp read so now high there is 100-103
 

Markw84

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@bprimm Brandon, I'm afraid there is much to do in order to get things to allow your leopards to grow and thrive. Have you read the post on how to raise a healthy leopard or sulcata? https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.78361/ That would be the best place to start.

Briefly to overview a few most critical items:
Your enclosure is way too dry. Your leopards will end up quite pyramided and as that is from too dry conditions, the dryness can also effect proper growth and organ development.
A pair is not a good idea. Especially with at least part S African Leopard in their bloodline - they are particularly aggressive amongst leopards.
The UVB appears to be a compact fluorescent. They are not well suited for tortoises at all and you will find out put out little useful UVB. A long tube fluorescent is much better choice.
Be sure it is dark at night. That would require a CHE on the thermostat, not a light. By "heat lamp" if you mean the red IR heat lamps, those are not well suited at all fro tortoises and will also contribute to pyramiding. They have extremely good color vision (better than you) and will do much better with darkness at night.
The water dish with vertical sides can be a hazard. A tortoise tipping over trying to get out or in cannot right itself and can drown.

Not to make you feel overwhelmed, but to give you a heads up on the common mistakes in your setup so you can correct now and give your tortoises a great start.

Please read the linked post and come back with any questions.
 

bprimm

New Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2018
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Corona
@bprimm Brandon, I'm afraid there is much to do in order to get things to allow your leopards to grow and thrive. Have you read the post on how to raise a healthy leopard or sulcata? https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.78361/ That would be the best place to start.

Briefly to overview a few most critical items:
Your enclosure is way too dry. Your leopards will end up quite pyramided and as that is from too dry conditions, the dryness can also effect proper growth and organ development.
A pair is not a good idea. Especially with at least part S African Leopard in their bloodline - they are particularly aggressive amongst leopards.
The UVB appears to be a compact fluorescent. They are not well suited for tortoises at all and you will find out put out little useful UVB. A long tube fluorescent is much better choice.
Be sure it is dark at night. That would require a CHE on the thermostat, not a light. By "heat lamp" if you mean the red IR heat lamps, those are not well suited at all fro tortoises and will also contribute to pyramiding. They have extremely good color vision (better than you) and will do much better with darkness at night.
The water dish with vertical sides can be a hazard. A tortoise tipping over trying to get out or in cannot right itself and can drown.

Not to make you feel overwhelmed, but to give you a heads up on the common mistakes in your setup so you can correct now and give your tortoises a great start.

Please read the linked post and come back with any questions.

Thank you. I will address those concerns and read the link. Yes the night heat is from a ceramic bulb so no light emitted. I will get mor moist substrate . Also the uvb is zoo med for dessert tortoises but I have an a frame enclosure I put them in on nice days so hopefully they get most of their uvb there. I’ll make sure not to fill the tray above 1/3 full to avoid drowning hazard . Thank you for your help.
 

bprimm

New Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2018
Messages
11
Location (City and/or State)
Corona
Thank you. I will address those concerns and read the link. Yes the night heat is from a ceramic bulb so no light emitted. I will get mor moist substrate . Also the uvb is zoo med for dessert tortoises but I have an a frame enclosure I put them in on nice days so hopefully they get most of their uvb there. I’ll make sure not to fill the tray above 1/3 full to avoid drowning hazard . Thank you for your help.

Read toms thoughts on the link shared. I think I’m gonna change to encloses enclosure. Wonder if large sterilite bin is a good starter?
 

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