Dumb Q About Cinder Blocks

dwright27

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Good afternoon everyone!

I have been so busy with school the last few months that I haven't been on the forum.

I am looking to make an outdoor pen for my redfoot, and I'm wondering about using cinder blocks. Do I need do use mortar, or is it safe to just stack them? I'm paranoid that the blocks will fall or something, even though they wouldn't be that high--I guess 3 blocks high would be enough?

Also, I live where there are birds of prey, raccoons, and coyotes. So I'm open to simple suggestions for how to cover it. I am NOT handy in any way, can't even hammer a nail straight. So the less carpentry the better, lol!

Thank you!
 

dmmj

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I use cinder blocks in my enclosures for the walls. they do fine stacked 2 high. I put pieces of rebar in the holes and then put dirt around it to make it sturdier.
 

dwright27

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Thanks! That sounds simple enough. Do you have it covered?
 

dwright27

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Your outdoor enclosures. Do you have a screen of some kind to keep animals out?
 

dmmj

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Your outdoor enclosures. Do you have a screen of some kind to keep animals out?
I see now, no I do not. We have no bird of prey in my area and raccoons are only a problem at night and they have secure lock boxes for that.
 

Yvonne G

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If you alternate them instead of stacking them directly one on the other, it makes the fence more stable.
 

ZEROPILOT

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The cool thing about blocks is that you can first find something suitable to use for a top...like a fence gate. And then make the enclosure the size that fits the top.
I wish you luck.
My Redfoot live outdoors, but in simple wooden pens. You'd need to be able to use hand tools...
 

Tom

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I use half blocks and stagger the rows.

Start your first row with a regular block. Start your second row with a half block, and then start your third row even with the first.

3 blocks high will contain adult sulcatas in most cases, so it will for sure hold in a redfoot.
 

Tony the tank

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I would caution against going three high unless you have a way of locking the blocks together...either with Mortar or as stated above fill with dirt and rebar ... ..(all the way through to the ground).....a little shift can make the wall very unstable..
 

Texas Scott

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image.jpeg Here is mine


You can get mortor in a caulking gun tube...very easy to apply.
 

Tom

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I would caution against going three high unless you have a way of locking the blocks together...either with Mortar or as stated above fill with dirt and rebar ... ..(all the way through to the ground).....a little shift can make the wall very unstable..

In 20 years of using blocks stacked 3 high, nothing has ever made them unstable and they've never fallen over. I have several hundred feet of 3 block high enclosure walls that have been sitting where there are, in a very stable fashion, for many years, with no mortar or rebar. They run up and down hills, around corners, and in long stretches on uneven ground. They usually don't fall over even when someone bumps them with a car bumper.
 
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Tony the tank

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In 20 years of using blocks stacked 3 high, nothing has ever made them unstable and they've never fallen over. I have several hundred feet of 3 block high enclosure walls that have been sitting where there are, in a very stable fashion, for many years, with no mortar or rebar. They run up and down hills, around corners, and in long stretches on uneven ground. They usually don't fall over even when someone bumps them with a car bumper.


Tom....This isn't about you..I'm offering advise.. I wouldn't nor would I advise anyone to just stack cinder blocks 3 high without a way of locking the blocks together.... Blocks do shift and a cinder block can do a lot of damage.... Your way is not always the correct way Tom.... Most will agree a cemented or rebar block wall has a lot less chance of collapsing than just staggered stacking..surely even you can see that...

Why take a chance and avoid a disaster ..
 
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dwright27

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Ah guys please don't get upset, I'm taking info from everywhere I can. I asked the initial question because stability is of the utmost concern. I would be devastated to lose my tortoise to a cinder block. And since I've never done this before, I just want to make it as secure as possible.
Where I live, some sinking into the ground is bound to happen.. Perhaps I'll just dig a deep enough trench to hold a whole block? I don't know.. Actually I was hoping to not have to dig much, if at all.
 
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Tony the tank

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Ah guys please don't get upset, I'm taking info from everywhere I can. I asked the initial question because stability is of the utmost concern. I would be devastated to lose my tortoise to a cinder block. And since I've never done this before, I just want to make it as secure as possible.
Where I live, some sinking into the ground is bound to happen.. Perhaps I'll just dig a deep enough trench to hold a whole block? I don't know.. Actually I was hoping to not have to dig much, if at all.


I think a wooden pen is the way to go... Just build it like you would a small board fence..... Use 1x8 boards 4 high....
 

Tom

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Yes, I think most would agree that cement and rebar would give it less chance of collapsing, but its not going to collapse with out cement and rebar, is my point. No need for all the extra work and expense. The time and money could be better spent on making the enclosure even larger and better instead of doing work that is totally unnecessary.

Spending the extra time, money and effort won't hurt anything, but it not needed in any way.
 
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dwright27

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Tony don't poke the bear!
Tom, do you have to treat the wood with anything? Or buy pressure treated? I don't want it to rot on me. :)
 

Tom

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Tom, do you have to treat the wood with anything? Or buy pressure treated? I don't want it to rot on me. :)

This will depend on your climate. Untreated wood will last for years here where I am, but in the south the same wood would rot away in less a than a year if left untreated.

I usually prime and paint my stuff, or use slumpstone block.
 

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I like the stacked cement block.
If you stack them block, half block, block half block. Or a layer of block then a layer of half block,etc. as described.
If you decide on wood, for the cost, I always use and have had them last for ten years, wooden fence picket boards screwed to metal posts hammered into the ground about a foot deep.
I've enclosed a photo as an example.
Like I mentioned before. It's very cheap and easy as well as long lasting. But you will need some basic tools. You can cut down on tool time by going with six foot lengths. (The length of the boards)...Like a 12 by 18 foot pen. A 6 by 24 foot pen, etc.
I.M.O. this would be plenty strong for a Sulcata until it gets quite huge and powerful.
Fence picket lumber. Fence picket posts and a box of 1" exterior deck screws.
 

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