Do I need a thermostat for my basking light ?

[fergusaur]

Do I need a thermostat for a halogen or incandescent flood lights? I’d imagine as long as I keep it at a high enough height it would be fine and won’t overheat his basking zone and the enclosure. Also since it’s on emitting uva, the height doesn’t matter like how it does with uvb right? If I do need a thermostat, could anyone give me a link to one pls (preferably on Amazon USA) ? I have a baby hermann’s tortoise if anyone was wondering

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Aside from the fact that that probably isn't the most ideal lighting type....You are correct that you do not need a thermostat if the temperature stays withing a good range by itself

 

[jsheffield]

I have thermostats on every heat emitting device in my various enclosures... it just makes me feel better/safer.

Jamie

 

[Maro2Bear]

I have thermostats on every heat emitting device in my various enclosures... it just makes me feel better/safer.

Jamie

So your basking light turns off & on all day long trying to maintain a certain basking temp? I didn't think that on/off power cycle over & over was good for basking lights. CHEs & RHPs yes, but not for basking lights.

 

[TechnoCheese]

So your basking light turns off & on all day long trying to maintain a certain basking temp? I didn't think that on/off power cycle over & over was good for basking lights. CHEs & RHPs yes, but not for basking lights.

There are dimming thermostats, they just tend to be a lot more expensive. One brand is habistat, I believe

 

[jaizei]

I think its generally a good idea to have a kill switch/thermostat in-line ahead of any/all heating devices set a bit above the target temperatures as additional protection if one of the thermostats regulating temperature fails or something else happens that allows temperatures to rise (AC stops working).

 

[Tom]

Do I need a thermostat for a halogen or incandescent flood lights? I’d imagine as long as I keep it at a high enough height it would be fine and won’t overheat his basking zone and the enclosure. Also since it’s on emitting uva, the height doesn’t matter like how it does with uvb right? If I do need a thermostat, could anyone give me a link to one pls (preferably on Amazon USA) ? I have a baby hermann’s tortoise if anyone was wondering

No. The basking lamp is meant to simulate the sun, and you don't want the sun turning on and off all day. Use a thermometer to set the bulb and fixture height correctly, and use the correct wattage for your size and type of enclosure.

Set a digital thermometer at about tortoise shell height directly under the heat lamp and leave it there for an hour or more. Raise or lower the fixture until it holds at around 95-100.

I have thermostats installed on my basking lamps in my hot reptile room because in summer, the ambient temp in there can climb into the low 90s. The thermostats cut the basking lamps off if the ambient temperature in the cooler side of the enclosure, away from the heat lamps, climbs above 96 degrees. If your enclosure is not a closed chamber and not in a 93 degree room, then you really don't need a thermostat on your heat lamp. Just a timer.

 

[Tom]

Do I need a thermostat for a halogen or incandescent flood lights? I’d imagine as long as I keep it at a high enough height it would be fine and won’t overheat his basking zone and the enclosure. Also since it’s on emitting uva, the height doesn’t matter like how it does with uvb right? If I do need a thermostat, could anyone give me a link to one pls (preferably on Amazon USA) ? I have a baby hermann’s tortoise if anyone was wondering

There are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

 

[Ray--Opo]

I would by a infrared temp gun. That way you can check anytime you want and dail in the correct temp.

 

[Sam & Ella]

Do I need a thermostat for a halogen or incandescent flood lights? I’d imagine as long as I keep it at a high enough height it would be fine and won’t overheat his basking zone and the enclosure. Also since it’s on emitting uva, the height doesn’t matter like how it does with uvb right? If I do need a thermostat, could anyone give me a link to one pls (preferably on Amazon USA) ? I have a baby Hermann’s tortoise if anyone was wondering

1) Monitor temperatures with a 9v --I think that's all "they" make, no AAs or rechargeable internal-- pyrometer with a laser pointer. I don't worry about overheating, even hatchlings. Reptiles monitor themselves, heat wise, but they are too dumb to move off of a hot wire and such. With the Wuhan raging, good pyrometers are cheaper than ever. (Thirty years ago, they were $350.00 +. Car racers used them to monitor tire temperatures during runs. Right front temp is far higher than left front, all things equal, you're driving poorly. Or it may need more or less psi.)

2) I think the light lamps are best below 18 inches, but not too low. I try for 16".

3) I've not had a lot of luck with thermostats that are not integrated into the heater itself by the manufacturer, and I don't think light-lamps can be used with them. As an aside, I am skeptical that "rheostats" (wattage and amp regulators) work with heaters (mats and ceramics and bulbs) at all. Been tinkering with these things for decades.

Hey, buy your tort some crabs: "Hermann's Hermits!" (I told you I was a geezer...)

PS to all: If I'm HUA on something, be blunt and tell me. I'm a very knowledgeable amateur, but still, I emphasize "amateur."

 

[Sam & Ella]

There are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

Thanks from me too.

Another maxim: "It's not the mistakes you make, as much as how well you deal with them (and avoid them later)."