Dumb question, I’m buying a new CHE bulb and I noticed some are infrared and others advertise “no harmful infrared”. What is the difference and which would I want for my 3 year old sulcata?
CHE lights
- Thread starter kewp
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Your subject title refers to "CET" lights. I'm curious why you're buying that type of light. We usually use UVB lights.
Aarrgh! Stupid autocorrect! It was supposed to be CHE bulb. I can’t see where to edit either...
All Ceramic Heat Emitters work by emitting Infra Red "light". It is mostly what is called Mid IR or IR-B. That is a longer wavelength IR that is more deep penetrating and somewhat less desiccating. So perhaps the marketing hype from one is touting that it is not emitting IR-A and therefore less desiccating. AND... that is true. And one of the reasons why I prefer CHEs over any of the incandescent "night heat" bulbs. Not only do those also emit some light, but the IR they produce is mostly IR-A
The cooler the "heat" source, the longer the wavelength of IR it emits. The earth, at night, emits very long wavelength IR-C. A radiant heat panel does not get as hot as a CHE and emits far IR-B and IR-C. A CHE emits IR-B in the range cells tend to absorb heat more quickly. Incadescent, mercury vapor, and halide light emit IR-A.
The cooler the "heat" source, the longer the wavelength of IR it emits. The earth, at night, emits very long wavelength IR-C. A radiant heat panel does not get as hot as a CHE and emits far IR-B and IR-C. A CHE emits IR-B in the range cells tend to absorb heat more quickly. Incadescent, mercury vapor, and halide light emit IR-A.
You need 3 or 4 heating and lighting elements:
1. Basking bulb: I prefer to use 65 watt incandescent floods for this. Run them on a timer for 12-13 hours a day, and adjust the height up or down to get the correct temp under them.
2. CHE: This maintains ambient temperature above your set point. Use a thermostat to control it.
3. UV lighting: I prefer any of the newer style HO bulbs that give off strong light and UV. Use them carefully and mount them at the correct height. These are long lasting and effective UV sources for when your tortoise is indoors. Down where you are, your tortoise can get some sunshine most of the year, so you really don't "need" UV as long as your tortoise is getting outside a couple times a week for most of the year. Not a big deal if you have to skip a few weeks in winter time due to colder weather.
4. More "ambient" lighting: Their indoor enclosures should be bright and shiny during the day to simulate bright outdoor sunshine. You can add a florescent tube in the 5000-6500K color range for this. Again, the HO T5 type bulbs will be much bright and more effective.
What size is your tortoise at three years old? If its over 8-10", you should be ready to move it outside full time with a heated night box this spring. Your climate is great for this.
She is about 7 inches long and 5 inches across. I was letting her out for a couple of hours during the summer a few times a week. There are huge hawks here. I’ve seen so many big, adult bunny slaughters that it makes me nervous at her size. Here is a pic of her on a regular size paper plate so you can get a good perspective. On the upside, she has really started growing fast a few months ago.
Markw84... you always provide all the great details. Helps us all. Tks.!
She's gorgeous!
There are tons of predators around me too, including hawks. In fact, I have a hawk and I fly her over my tortoises almost every day. At her size, hawks and other birds of prey are no longer an issue. Just gotta watch out for dogs, raccoons and coyotes now. During the day you shouldn't have any issues with the local wildlife and at night she'll be locked up and safe inside her box. Dogs are a serious, and usually underestimated, threat 24/7.
I think your baby will be ready to live outside full time in the spring. Here is one example of the night boxes I'm talking about and how to heat them:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/another-night-box-thread.88966/#post-828952
This size will last forever for an adult female if you make the door big enough. It will fit all but the very largest males too.
Thanks. I bookmarked it. I was really worried about her size for the longest time. It took her forever to start growing. Now when I wake up in the morning I swear she looks noticeably bigger then the night before. Always been super healthy active and curious (can get really grumpy though) so I guess she just must be a late bloomer or something. Am a little upset she is showing a tiny bit of pyramiding now. She had the smoothest, roundish shell up until 3 or 4 months ago. Should probably consider myself really lucky since that’s the only issue.
The shell looks great. I'm really particular about the shell smoothness too, but you've done a great job there. She looks better than most of the ones I raise. It is very uncommon to see them perfectly smooth anywhere, but especially not here in southern CA. I'd be proud of one looking like yours.
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