Beak problems

liv&james

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Mar 14, 2015
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Hi everyone!

I am only new to tortoise forum and usually just read it as I have never had an problems with James. So I hope I have done this right!

I recently noticed a crack in my tortoises' beak. I took him to the owner of the pet shop that I bought him from and she said that as long as it isn't bleeding or causing him any pain then it will be okay. The crack has now gotten worse and turned into a small triangle shape in him beak and another one is starting on the other side. He doesn't seem to be in any pain and it isn't bleeding. He is eating but not eating all of his food, which isn't unnormal for him anyway. He has been sleeping a bit more than usual but I think that may be my fault. I started a new job so I changed the timer on his light to suit my working hours and he still hasn't adapted.

A little bit about my baby...

James is a 5 year old Hermann's tortoise, I have had him for two years and bought him from a local pet shop. He lives in a wooden tortoise table with Hemp bedding and a heat lamp (temp is correct). I try to give him a varied diet but I do find it hard. He has things such as, cabbage, kale, rocket, watercress, peppercress, pak choi, dandelion leaves and he some times has a little bit of cucumber as a treat, less than once a week.

He has nutrilbol and calci dust on his food on alternate dates. He has a cuttlefish bone in his house but he doesn't bother with it.

He has a Luke warm bath every two days and absolutely loves it. He also roams around my living room for an hour everyday and the garden in the summer.

I haven't had a tortoise before so I rely on pages such as this for advise, if I am doing anything wrong then please let me know. I want to be the best mum to James as possible!

There isn't a reptile vet local to me so I thought I would ask on here before driving for hours to find one haha!

Thank you in advance.

P.s photo shows triangle shaped cut at the front!

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Tom

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His beak is over grown and its trying to wear down to wear it should be. I would take him in for a trim. Leveling it off correctly will help to prevent cracks like that one running all the way up.

Your soft diet is a contributor to this issue. All the grocery store foods are okay, but not the best diet. Then need a wide variety of broadleaf weeds. When spring arrives try to learn your local weeds and feed him more of those from safe areas. The tough, fibrous nature of the weeds will cause him to use his beak more and naturally wear it down. Many people suggest feeding on an abrasive piece of sand stone or slate to help with this issue too. Couldn't hurt to try it. Your tortoise needs more fiber in its diet too. Adding some blended grass hay, freshly chopped grass, or some "herbal hay" would help. Just use a tiny little bit at first and gradually work up to more.

Everyone has their preferences for how to keep tortoises, and since you asked for tips, I will share my thoughts.

A hermanni of his age and size does not need calcium or vitamins every other day. Once a week on either should be more than sufficient to meet his needs. This might be contributing to the beak over growth.

You never mentioned a UV source. Does he have one inside?

I would not let him roam around indoors. That is an unsafe practice for a variety of reasons, and often ends in disaster. If his enclosure is too small to meet his exercise needs, make it bigger.

Roaming loose in the garden is another recipe for disaster. He needs a dedicated closed off space that is just for him. You can grow weeds and edible plants in there for him and make it safe, large, escape proof and interesting. It will become his territory and he will get quite comfortable out there.

What do you consider the "correct" temperature under the basking lamp?

I would not use hemp bedding. I prefer something like orchid bark, cypress mulch or coco chips than can be kept a little damp to offer some moderate humidity in an open topped enclosure.

What have you set the light timer to? I prefer my on off times to coincide with the daylight outside, regardless of my work schedule.
 

liv&james

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Mar 14, 2015
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Thanks very much, I will get him booked in for a trim! I had a feeling at would be that.

I will try to vary his diet more with weeds etc. I have found it difficult to vary his diet but do try and get the things mentioned. And the piece of slate is a brilliant idea, ive also been told that this can help keep his nails filed down so I will add one to his enclosure.

He does have a UV source yes, his lamp is a heat and UV one. I try to keep the temperature around 32 degrees, is that correct? That is what I was told when I bought him anyway.

I live in the UK and do struggle to let him outdoors in the summer as we very rarely get any warm weather here. But his own teritory is a good idea, I will probably do this when the weather warms up.

The light is set to 7am until 7pm so it more or less coincides with daylight.

When you mention that he can eat fresh cut grass, will the grass from my garden be acceptable? Providing that there is no treatments etc on it.

Thanks again for your help, it is much appreciated!
 

Tom

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He does have a UV source yes, his lamp is a heat and UV one. I try to keep the temperature around 32 degrees, is that correct? That is what I was told when I bought him anyway.


When you mention that he can eat fresh cut grass, will the grass from my garden be acceptable? Providing that there is no treatments etc on it.

I prefer to have the basking area directly under the bulb around 36. Think of how warm they could get on a sunny summer day in their native land.

The grass from your garden should be fine. I cut it with scissors and chop it onto the food for the day. Spray the pile of food with water ahead of time and then mix the grass clippings in thoroughly. This will make the clippings stick to the other food and get them all eaten. Just use a tiny little bit at first. Gradually add more over time. Russians are really not grass eaters, but some grass or grass hay can be used to add fiber to a diet of mostly grocery store greens when other food items are not available. In the summer look for those weeds, grape leaves, mulberry leaves, spineless opuntia cactus pads, etc...
 

liv&james

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Mar 14, 2015
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I prefer to have the basking area directly under the bulb around 36. Think of how warm they could get on a sunny summer day in their native land.

The grass from your garden should be fine. I cut it with scissors and chop it onto the food for the day. Spray the pile of food with water ahead of time and then mix the grass clippings in thoroughly. This will make the clippings stick to the other food and get them all eaten. Just use a tiny little bit at first. Gradually add more over time. Russians are really not grass eaters, but some grass or grass hay can be used to add fiber to a diet of mostly grocery store greens when other food items are not available. In the summer look for those weeds, grape leaves, mulberry leaves, spineless opuntia cactus pads, etc...

Thanks very much, I will turn the light up and try the grass idea!

I've been told that I shouldn't keep his food in the same place all of the time because he will become lazy, is that true?
 

Tom

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I've been told that I shouldn't keep his food in the same place all of the time because he will become lazy, is that true?

People do it both ways and it works fine either way. I think its personal preference. I usually put the food in the same place and my tortoises are not lazy. Still, there is no harm in making the tortoise hunt for it.
 

liv&james

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Mar 14, 2015
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Brilliant. James still tends to eat it regardless of where I put it anyway. I just don't want him to get lazy haha, thank you!
 
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