Setting up for a Russian Tortoise - Constructive comments welcome

• I am 59 years old. With proper care the tortoise will outlive me. Will be slowly having the kids, grandkids, and great grandkids who all either live with me or live five minutes drive to help take care of the tortoise. This brings me great happiness that my family lives so close. I must of done something right! With luck I can instill the love I have with tortoises to my family. So when I to pass away there will be someone who can take over for me.
• Veterinarians. If things go sideways I have a number of veterinarians fairly close by my home. Plus TortoiseForum is only a post away! In a sense you all have now become my extended family.

• 48"x72"x16" box. Bottom and sides are 1/2" vinyl veneered. 1/2" plywood floor and 2x construction glued and screwed. ( I selected an open table veneered with vinyl for easy cleaning. 2x construction allows me to stand/jump right in enclosure )
• 2 1/4" interior overhang to prevent tortoise from escaping.
• Bottom of table is 16" off floor. Inside walls are 16" high.
• I have enough room for expansion in the future. Room to create an additional 48"x48"x16" wing.

• 3" Coconut Coir bottom layer. Many places OVER 3" to allow burrowing.
• 1" Orchid Bark top layer to help keep coconut coir moist and humid.
• In winter months the basement is dry. Plan on keeping Coconut Coir very moist to help tortoise hydrate.

• NOTE: All temperatures are done by placing a rock about the height of a tortoise ( 4 inches off substrate ) and targeting with Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun.
• Basking - 125-Watt Clear BR40 Dimmable Incandescent 120-Volt Infrared Heat Lamp Light Bulb - ( timer: 8am-10pm - temp: 90 - 100 degrees )
• UV - REPTI ZOO T5 HO UVB Reptile Lighting Combo Kit ( 39 watt ) - ( timer: 11am-2pm / 3 to 4 on the meter )
• Heat - Zoo Med Repticare Ceramic Infrared Reptile Heater, 100-watt - ( 4 in total / thermostat controlled set at 75 degrees / enclosure temperature range from 70 - 80 degrees )
• Directly over the tortoise table will have a 4 in 1 Light Socket Splitter E27 Adapter LED Standard Lights Bulbs Converter for Home Office Basement to make the lighting over the table brighter ( 6am-12:30pm ).

• Tipped over planter. Berm to 6" height to allow burrowing.
• Humid hide which is 36"x18"x8" - ( Constant 75 +/- degrees temperature / 70 - 100 percent humidity 24/7. )

• Fix a bowl about as big as the tortoises shell once a day. Add more at noon if tortoise eats everything.
• Plan on giving the tortoise a variety of grocery, pet store and home grown foods.
• Seed Mix: Broadleaf testudo mix - ( Plan to let grow and hand cut and feed. Never going to place tray in enclosure. )
• Mazuri Original 5M21 Tortoise Food
• Zoo Med Natural Grassland Tortoise Food
• Grocery Items: Spring mix, endive, escarole, carrot tops, cilantro, mustard, turnip and collard greens, arugula, cilantro, kale, squash leaves, romaine, green or red leaf lettuce, butter lettuce, water cress, celery tops and much more.
• Will use The Tortoise Table and try to plant more varieties. More different plant food the better.
• HUGE VARIETY OF RECOMMENDED FOODS. EVERY DAY PER WEEK SOMETHING DIFFERENT IN THE MIX.
• NEVER GIVE TORTOISE ANY FRUIT.

• Zoo Med Banquet Block Tortoise Food, 5-oz
• Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 Reptile Supplement - Twice a week
• Penn-Plax Bird-Life Natural E Cuttlebones Bird Supplement, 2 count

• Since table is open which I know is not recommended I would like to do the following 24/7 and 365 days a year.
• Keep large Humid Hide which is 36"x18"x8" at 70 to100 percent humidity 24/7 and 365 days a year. Sensor is fastened at top by Velcro in the middle/ top of the container.
• Plan on placing the soaking container within enclosure only when soaking. Water level the height where bottom/top shell meets. Tortoise will only be picked up 4 times a day. Never more than 6" off substate in case of a fall. Rest of the time the tortoise will be free to do anything it wants.
• 24 hours/ 7 days a week/ 365 day a year. I work at home and never leave the property. That being the case I plan on soaking the tortoise 2 hours a day. Soakings will occur at 6am, 12pm, 6pm and 12am each for 30 minutes. This with hydrate the tortoise as well help keep the enclosure clean ( poop and pee while soaking ) to extend the time I need to do a total recleaning with new substrate. Will check in on tortoise every couple of hours.
• My regular sleep schedule is 1am to 6am for the last 40 years so will not interfere with my life in the slightest. Two or more hours away from video games, yes almost 60 and still playing games, will probably do me some good. Watching the tortoise while soaking will be so much fun. Probably will be talking to the tortoise the whole time.
• Spray with garden hose the entire surface on "Mist" setting "x" times a week to keep humidity in substrate as high as possible. Testing shows I can keep the temperature at 70 and humidity pegged at 100% percent below substrate using a Zoo Med Digital Combo Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Humidity Gauge sensors touching the bottom vinyl floor under the substrate. Substate is moist, not wet/muddy at touch. Could setup a automatic misting system, like I use to do plant cutting propagating. Something like 5 second mist every hour. This could in theory combat the never ending battle that I am in raising the humidity above substrate a little and continue to keep the below substrate ideal. Automatic would be a plus also. Would have a water source 24/7 all year.
• Normal room humidity is between 30 and 40 during the winter months and 70 degree temperature +/-.
• Normal room humidity is between 60 and 80 during the summer months with 90 degree temperature +/-.

• Unfortunately the tortoise will need to be always kept in enclosure. We have dogs, cats, fruit trees we spray, lawn that we fertilize and especially very young great grandchildren that could drop, kick or step on tortoise. Basement is now off limits to all pets and young children or anyone else who does not know the rules. Rule number one is DO NOT PICK UP TORTOISE. And those that do must wash hands before and after only when soaking.
• Everything I need is one step away from my Tortoise table. No human area used for tortoise stuff.
• Utility sink right next to tortoise table so I can have cold or hot water.
• Garden hose with "Mist" setting attached to sink so warm water can be used to spray entire table "x" times a week.
• New refrigerator right next to tortoise table to store tortoise food.
• Table / Workbench right next to tortoise table to use for tortoise stuff like indoor planting, preparing food and anything else that comes up.
• 4 - Zoo Med Digital Combo Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Humidity Gauge spread around Tortoise table.
• Mini Non-Contact Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun for quick spot checks.
• Solarmeter Model 6.5R UV Index Meter Reptile Accessory, Green for quick spot checks.
• Generator if power goes out for a long period of time at a bad time of year. Colder months.

• 6am-6:30am = soak / inspect enclosure ( get rid of old food, poop ) / change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise near fresh food.
• 12pm-12:30pm = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise under basking lamp.
• 6pm-6:30pm = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise under basking lamp.
• 12am-12:30am = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise near remaining food.
• 12:30am = Lights out over table ( simulate dusk since other lights are still on in room ).
• 1am = Lights out in whole room. Owner and Tortoise time to sleep.

• Measure and Weigh tortoise and document on this post each month. This way I have a record and forum members can observe my efforts and let me know if they notice something I overlooked. Thirty years as a computer programmer has taught me the more eyes on a project the better the project turns out.

David Steere said:

To @Tom @Carol S @Yvonne G and the rest of the wonderful people on TortioseForum!

My name is David Steere and this is going to be my first Tortoise. My wife Sandra who I was married for 30 years passed away last December and seeing that my children and grandchildren still live with me I figured it is a good time for me to get a new companion that will be with me to the end of my days. One wife was all I ever needed in this world. There could be no replacement.

So I figure I would get something I always wanted but never got around to get. A Russian Tortoise.

I am the typical person who bought turtles, fish, reptiles at a pet store and once I got them home I than thought of how to take care of them. Always ended terribly!

This time I want to get it right and setup an open tortoise table where I could just sit on my bench alone or with my family members and watch and care for my new companion along with how everyone's day was..

Since it would not be fair to my family to get into another relationship I am going to settle for the next best thing. A Russian Tortoise who will be called Sandy ( covers both male and female ) in honor of my wife. I am going to try to take care of the tortoise just as I did my wife. With tender loving care.

Below is what I have put together so far.

PICTURES OF TORTOISE TABLE

View attachment 368973

View attachment 368974
View attachment 368975

View attachment 368976

GENERAL

• I am 59 years old. With proper care the tortoise will outlive me. Will be slowly having the kids, grandkids, and great grandkids who all either live with me or live five minutes drive to help take care of the tortoise. This brings me great happiness that my family lives so close. I must of done something right! With luck I can instill the love I have with tortoises to my family. So when I to pass away there will be someone who can take over for me.
• Veterinarians. If things go sideways I have a number of veterinarians fairly close by my home. Plus TortoiseForum is only a post away! In a sense you all have now become my extended family.

Ocean State Veterinary Specialists
1480 South County Trail
East Greenwich, RI 02818
Tel: (401) 886-OSVS (6787)
Fax: (401) 886-8998

Wickford Veterinary Clinic
7440 Post Road
North Kingstown, RI 02852
Tel: (401) 295-9739
Tel: (401) 886-6787 (emergency)

That out of the way lets talk about the setup.

TABLE

• 48"x72"x16" box. Bottom and sides are 1/2" vinyl veneered. 1/2" plywood floor and 2x construction glued and screwed. ( I selected an open table veneered with vinyl for easy cleaning. 2x construction allows me to stand/jump right in enclosure )
• 2 1/4" interior overhang to prevent tortoise from escaping.
• Bottom of table is 16" off floor. Inside walls are 16" high.
• I have enough room for expansion in the future. Room to create an additional 48"x48"x16" wing.

SUBSTRATE

• 3" Coconut Coir bottom layer. Many places OVER 3" to allow burrowing.
• 1" Orchid Bark top layer to help keep coconut coir moist and humid.
• In winter months the basement is dry. Plan on keeping Coconut Coir very moist to help tortoise hydrate.

LIGHTING

• NOTE: All temperatures are done by placing a rock about the height of a tortoise ( 4 inches off substrate ) and targeting with Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun.
• Basking - 125-Watt Clear BR40 Dimmable Incandescent 120-Volt Infrared Heat Lamp Light Bulb - ( timer: 8am-10pm - temp: 90 - 100 degrees )
• UV - REPTI ZOO T5 HO UVB Reptile Lighting Combo Kit ( 39 watt ) - ( timer: 11am-2pm / 3 to 4 on the meter )
• Heat - Zoo Med Repticare Ceramic Infrared Reptile Heater, 100-watt - ( 4 in total / thermostat controlled set at 75 degrees / enclosure temperature range from 70 - 80 degrees )
• Directly over the tortoise table will have a 4 in 1 Light Socket Splitter E27 Adapter LED Standard Lights Bulbs Converter for Home Office Basement to make the lighting over the table brighter ( 6am-12:30pm ).

HIDES

• Tipped over planter. Berm to 6" height to allow burrowing.
• Humid hide which is 36"x18"x8" - ( Constant 75 +/- degrees temperature / 70 - 100 percent humidity 24/7. )

DIET

• Fix a bowl about as big as the tortoises shell once a day. Add more at noon if tortoise eats everything.
• Plan on giving the tortoise a variety of grocery, pet store and home grown foods.
• Seed Mix: Broadleaf testudo mix - ( Plan to let grow and hand cut and feed. Never going to place tray in enclosure. )
• Mazuri Original 5M21 Tortoise Food
• Zoo Med Natural Grassland Tortoise Food
• Grocery Items: Spring mix, endive, escarole, carrot tops, cilantro, mustard, turnip and collard greens, arugula, cilantro, kale, squash leaves, romaine, green or red leaf lettuce, butter lettuce, water cress, celery tops and much more.
• Will use The Tortoise Table and try to plant more varieties. More different plant food the better.
• HUGE VARIETY OF RECOMMENDED FOODS. EVERY DAY PER WEEK SOMETHING DIFFERENT IN THE MIX.
• NEVER GIVE TORTOISE ANY FRUIT.

SUPPLEMENTS

• Zoo Med Banquet Block Tortoise Food, 5-oz
• Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 Reptile Supplement - Twice a week
• Penn-Plax Bird-Life Natural E Cuttlebones Bird Supplement, 2 count

SOAKING / ( HUMITITY - ADMIT ACHILLES HEEL )

• Since table is open which I know is not recommended I would like to do the following 24/7 and 365 days a year.
• Keep large Humid Hide which is 36"x18"x8" at 70 to100 percent humidity 24/7 and 365 days a year. Sensor is fastened at top by Velcro in the middle/ top of the container.
• Plan on placing the soaking container within enclosure only when soaking. Water level the height where bottom/top shell meets. Tortoise will only be picked up 4 times a day. Never more than 6" off substate in case of a fall. Rest of the time the tortoise will be free to do anything it wants.
• 24 hours/ 7 days a week/ 365 day a year. I work at home and never leave the property. That being the case I plan on soaking the tortoise 2 hours a day. Soakings will occur at 6am, 12pm, 6pm and 12am each for 30 minutes. This with hydrate the tortoise as well help keep the enclosure clean ( poop and pee while soaking ) to extend the time I need to do a total recleaning with new substrate. Will check in on tortoise every couple of hours.
• My regular sleep schedule is 1am to 6am for the last 40 years so will not interfere with my life in the slightest. Two or more hours away from video games, yes almost 60 and still playing games, will probably do me some good. Watching the tortoise while soaking will be so much fun. Probably will be talking to the tortoise the whole time.
• Spray with garden hose the entire surface on "Mist" setting "x" times a week to keep humidity in substrate as high as possible. Testing shows I can keep the temperature at 70 and humidity pegged at 100% percent below substrate using a Zoo Med Digital Combo Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Humidity Gauge sensors touching the bottom vinyl floor under the substrate. Substate is moist, not wet/muddy at touch. Could setup a automatic misting system, like I use to do plant cutting propagating. Something like 5 second mist every hour. This could in theory combat the never ending battle that I am in raising the humidity above substrate a little and continue to keep the below substrate ideal. Automatic would be a plus also. Would have a water source 24/7 all year.
• Normal room humidity is between 30 and 40 during the winter months and 70 degree temperature +/-.
• Normal room humidity is between 60 and 80 during the summer months with 90 degree temperature +/-.

My plan was to get an adult Russian Tortoise but to my dismay all the breeders I have found only have hatchlings. I did find a breeder who sells juvenile Russian Tortoises so leaning on purchasing the tortoise from that breeder. I know the younger the tortoise the less mistakes you can make. Hesitant to get a hatchling due to my humidity limitations.

MISCELLANEOUS

• Unfortunately the tortoise will need to be always kept in enclosure. We have dogs, cats, fruit trees we spray, lawn that we fertilize and especially very young great grandchildren that could drop, kick or step on tortoise. Basement is now off limits to all pets and young children or anyone else who does not know the rules. Rule number one is DO NOT PICK UP TORTOISE. And those that do must wash hands before and after only when soaking.
• Everything I need is one step away from my Tortoise table. No human area used for tortoise stuff.
• Utility sink right next to tortoise table so I can have cold or hot water.
• Garden hose with "Mist" setting attached to sink so warm water can be used to spray entire table "x" times a week.
• New refrigerator right next to tortoise table to store tortoise food.
• Table / Workbench right next to tortoise table to use for tortoise stuff like indoor planting, preparing food and anything else that comes up.
• 4 - Zoo Med Digital Combo Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Humidity Gauge spread around Tortoise table.
• Mini Non-Contact Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun for quick spot checks.
• Solarmeter Model 6.5R UV Index Meter Reptile Accessory, Green for quick spot checks.
• Generator if power goes out for a long period of time at a bad time of year. Colder months.

DAILY ROUTINE

• 6am-6:30am = soak / inspect enclosure ( get rid of old food, poop ) / change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise near fresh food.
• 12pm-12:30pm = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise under basking lamp.
• 6pm-6:30pm = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise under basking lamp.
• 12am-12:30am = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise near remaining food.
• 12:30am = Lights out over table ( simulate dusk since other lights are still on in room ).
• 1am = Lights out in whole room. Owner and Tortoise time to sleep.

MONTHLY ROUTINE

• Measure and Weigh tortoise and document on this post each month. This way I have a record and forum members can observe my efforts and let me know if they notice something I overlooked. Thirty years as a computer programmer has taught me the more eyes on a project the better the project turns out.

So sorry for such a long post. I am looking forward to many years here on TortoiseForum. Thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to read this post. Look forward to comments, suggestions and concerns.

Click to expand...

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• Best soil to use. Can I use any soil? Coconut Coir, Compost, Loam from garden, Potting soil?
• What kind of lighting is needed? Do I need special lighting or bright LED enough?
• When ready to harvest I plan on cutting about an inch above soil in pot do I throw away roots and start over or will these grow back or die?
• Do I just cover the whole top of soil in pots with seeds or do I try to space them?
• Do I try to separate seeds to have the same in each pot? Not sure if that is even possible.
• How high do I let them grow?

David Steere said:

To @Tom @Carol S @Yvonne G and the rest of the wonderful people on TortioseForum!

My name is David Steere and this is going to be my first Tortoise. My wife Sandra who I was married for 30 years passed away last December and seeing that my children and grandchildren still live with me I figured it is a good time for me to get a new companion that will be with me to the end of my days. One wife was all I ever needed in this world. There could be no replacement.

So I figure I would get something I always wanted but never got around to get. A Russian Tortoise.

I am the typical person who bought turtles, fish, reptiles at a pet store and once I got them home I than thought of how to take care of them. Always ended terribly!

This time I want to get it right and setup an open tortoise table where I could just sit on my bench alone or with my family members and watch and care for my new companion along with how everyone's day was..

Since it would not be fair to my family to get into another relationship I am going to settle for the next best thing. A Russian Tortoise who will be called Sandy ( covers both male and female ) in honor of my wife. I am going to try to take care of the tortoise just as I did my wife. With tender loving care.

Below is what I have put together so far.

PICTURES OF TORTOISE TABLE

View attachment 368973

View attachment 368974
View attachment 368975

View attachment 368976

GENERAL

• I am 59 years old. With proper care the tortoise will outlive me. Will be slowly having the kids, grandkids, and great grandkids who all either live with me or live five minutes drive to help take care of the tortoise. This brings me great happiness that my family lives so close. I must of done something right! With luck I can instill the love I have with tortoises to my family. So when I to pass away there will be someone who can take over for me.
• Veterinarians. If things go sideways I have a number of veterinarians fairly close by my home. Plus TortoiseForum is only a post away! In a sense you all have now become my extended family.

Ocean State Veterinary Specialists
1480 South County Trail
East Greenwich, RI 02818
Tel: (401) 886-OSVS (6787)
Fax: (401) 886-8998

Wickford Veterinary Clinic
7440 Post Road
North Kingstown, RI 02852
Tel: (401) 295-9739
Tel: (401) 886-6787 (emergency)

That out of the way lets talk about the setup.

TABLE

• 48"x72"x16" box. Bottom and sides are 1/2" vinyl veneered. 1/2" plywood floor and 2x construction glued and screwed. ( I selected an open table veneered with vinyl for easy cleaning. 2x construction allows me to stand/jump right in enclosure )
• 2 1/4" interior overhang to prevent tortoise from escaping.
• Bottom of table is 16" off floor. Inside walls are 16" high.
• I have enough room for expansion in the future. Room to create an additional 48"x48"x16" wing.

SUBSTRATE

• 3" Coconut Coir bottom layer. Many places OVER 3" to allow burrowing.
• 1" Orchid Bark top layer to help keep coconut coir moist and humid.
• In winter months the basement is dry. Plan on keeping Coconut Coir very moist to help tortoise hydrate.

LIGHTING

• NOTE: All temperatures are done by placing a rock about the height of a tortoise ( 4 inches off substrate ) and targeting with Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun.
• Basking - 125-Watt Clear BR40 Dimmable Incandescent 120-Volt Infrared Heat Lamp Light Bulb - ( timer: 8am-10pm - temp: 90 - 100 degrees )
• UV - REPTI ZOO T5 HO UVB Reptile Lighting Combo Kit ( 39 watt ) - ( timer: 11am-2pm / 3 to 4 on the meter )
• Heat - Zoo Med Repticare Ceramic Infrared Reptile Heater, 100-watt - ( 4 in total / thermostat controlled set at 75 degrees / enclosure temperature range from 70 - 80 degrees )
• Directly over the tortoise table will have a 4 in 1 Light Socket Splitter E27 Adapter LED Standard Lights Bulbs Converter for Home Office Basement to make the lighting over the table brighter ( 6am-12:30pm ).

HIDES

• Tipped over planter. Berm to 6" height to allow burrowing.
• Humid hide which is 36"x18"x8" - ( Constant 75 +/- degrees temperature / 70 - 100 percent humidity 24/7. )

DIET

• Fix a bowl about as big as the tortoises shell once a day. Add more at noon if tortoise eats everything.
• Plan on giving the tortoise a variety of grocery, pet store and home grown foods.
• Seed Mix: Broadleaf testudo mix - ( Plan to let grow and hand cut and feed. Never going to place tray in enclosure. )
• Mazuri Original 5M21 Tortoise Food
• Zoo Med Natural Grassland Tortoise Food
• Grocery Items: Spring mix, endive, escarole, carrot tops, cilantro, mustard, turnip and collard greens, arugula, cilantro, kale, squash leaves, romaine, green or red leaf lettuce, butter lettuce, water cress, celery tops and much more.
• Will use The Tortoise Table and try to plant more varieties. More different plant food the better.
• HUGE VARIETY OF RECOMMENDED FOODS. EVERY DAY PER WEEK SOMETHING DIFFERENT IN THE MIX.
• NEVER GIVE TORTOISE ANY FRUIT.

SUPPLEMENTS

• Zoo Med Banquet Block Tortoise Food, 5-oz
• Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 Reptile Supplement - Twice a week
• Penn-Plax Bird-Life Natural E Cuttlebones Bird Supplement, 2 count

SOAKING / ( HUMITITY - ADMIT ACHILLES HEEL )

• Since table is open which I know is not recommended I would like to do the following 24/7 and 365 days a year.
• Keep large Humid Hide which is 36"x18"x8" at 70 to100 percent humidity 24/7 and 365 days a year. Sensor is fastened at top by Velcro in the middle/ top of the container.
• Plan on placing the soaking container within enclosure only when soaking. Water level the height where bottom/top shell meets. Tortoise will only be picked up 4 times a day. Never more than 6" off substate in case of a fall. Rest of the time the tortoise will be free to do anything it wants.
• 24 hours/ 7 days a week/ 365 day a year. I work at home and never leave the property. That being the case I plan on soaking the tortoise 2 hours a day. Soakings will occur at 6am, 12pm, 6pm and 12am each for 30 minutes. This with hydrate the tortoise as well help keep the enclosure clean ( poop and pee while soaking ) to extend the time I need to do a total recleaning with new substrate. Will check in on tortoise every couple of hours.
• My regular sleep schedule is 1am to 6am for the last 40 years so will not interfere with my life in the slightest. Two or more hours away from video games, yes almost 60 and still playing games, will probably do me some good. Watching the tortoise while soaking will be so much fun. Probably will be talking to the tortoise the whole time.
• Spray with garden hose the entire surface on "Mist" setting "x" times a week to keep humidity in substrate as high as possible. Testing shows I can keep the temperature at 70 and humidity pegged at 100% percent below substrate using a Zoo Med Digital Combo Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Humidity Gauge sensors touching the bottom vinyl floor under the substrate. Substate is moist, not wet/muddy at touch. Could setup a automatic misting system, like I use to do plant cutting propagating. Something like 5 second mist every hour. This could in theory combat the never ending battle that I am in raising the humidity above substrate a little and continue to keep the below substrate ideal. Automatic would be a plus also. Would have a water source 24/7 all year.
• Normal room humidity is between 30 and 40 during the winter months and 70 degree temperature +/-.
• Normal room humidity is between 60 and 80 during the summer months with 90 degree temperature +/-.

My plan was to get an adult Russian Tortoise but to my dismay all the breeders I have found only have hatchlings. I did find a breeder who sells juvenile Russian Tortoises so leaning on purchasing the tortoise from that breeder. I know the younger the tortoise the less mistakes you can make. Hesitant to get a hatchling due to my humidity limitations.

MISCELLANEOUS

• Unfortunately the tortoise will need to be always kept in enclosure. We have dogs, cats, fruit trees we spray, lawn that we fertilize and especially very young great grandchildren that could drop, kick or step on tortoise. Basement is now off limits to all pets and young children or anyone else who does not know the rules. Rule number one is DO NOT PICK UP TORTOISE. And those that do must wash hands before and after only when soaking.
• Everything I need is one step away from my Tortoise table. No human area used for tortoise stuff.
• Utility sink right next to tortoise table so I can have cold or hot water.
• Garden hose with "Mist" setting attached to sink so warm water can be used to spray entire table "x" times a week.
• New refrigerator right next to tortoise table to store tortoise food.
• Table / Workbench right next to tortoise table to use for tortoise stuff like indoor planting, preparing food and anything else that comes up.
• 4 - Zoo Med Digital Combo Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Humidity Gauge spread around Tortoise table.
• Mini Non-Contact Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun for quick spot checks.
• Solarmeter Model 6.5R UV Index Meter Reptile Accessory, Green for quick spot checks.
• Generator if power goes out for a long period of time at a bad time of year. Colder months.

DAILY ROUTINE

• 6am-6:30am = soak / inspect enclosure ( get rid of old food, poop ) / change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise near fresh food.
• 12pm-12:30pm = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise under basking lamp.
• 6pm-6:30pm = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise under basking lamp.
• 12am-12:30am = soak/ change water dish / when done soaking place tortoise near remaining food.
• 12:30am = Lights out over table ( simulate dusk since other lights are still on in room ).
• 1am = Lights out in whole room. Owner and Tortoise time to sleep.

MONTHLY ROUTINE

• Measure and Weigh tortoise and document on this post each month. This way I have a record and forum members can observe my efforts and let me know if they notice something I overlooked. Thirty years as a computer programmer has taught me the more eyes on a project the better the project turns out.

So sorry for such a long post. I am looking forward to many years here on TortoiseForum. Thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to read this post. Look forward to comments, suggestions and concerns.

Click to expand...

Alex and the Redfoot said:

1. Lightning regime: your tortoise needs 12-14 hours of bright light, especially during winter time to keep it from brumating. So LEDs timing should be adjusted (e.g. from 8AM to 5PM) and basking light should be on from 6PM to 6-8PM. Incandescent lamps have more "warm" spectre which is more close to dawn/dusk sun. Having lights on from 6AM to 1AM is not quite right. They sleep in darkness and usually active from a sunrise till a few hours before sunset.
2. Much accent is put on humidity and soaking. Soaking once/twice a day is enough, for an adult tortoise - every other day or once a week. However, soaks aren't a substitute for an ambient humidity. And misting substrate is not either. I think, turning an table into a "closed chamber" will worth the efforts. Either with a "greenhouse top" or custom PVC pipes frame and such. This will help you with maintaining humidity and will simplify setup and routines and you may use a blackout cover to ensure proper day/night cycle for the tortoise if the basement is a living/working space for you. Perhaps you can make a sectioned space with a tortoise table (like an "office cube") instead of covering an enclosure.

Click to expand...

• Creating 4'x4' side walls using 2x4's 16" on center ( 2 in total. one for each side ). This wall will be secured on the 4"x4" post legs/ frame. See picture below.
• Hanging 4 - 2x6's as the flat roof going the 6' direction in line with the 2x4 wall studs. Fastening with Galvanized Face-Mount Concealed-Flange Joist Hanger.
• Interior space to become more humid will be 3'x4'x6'. Need the 3' height for crawl space for me to maintain table and hang the lights via the 2x6's roof.
• So 3x4x6 = 72 square feet I need to bring up the humidity from 30% to 80%.
• Doorway to get into tortoise table will be on the open 6' side. Will fasten to 2x construction a 36 in. x 48 in. x 0.093 (3/32) in. Clear Acrylic Sheet for access and viewing. Drapped with BLACK bag once lights out is needed.
• Skin will be BLACK 42 Gal. Heavy Duty Clean-Up Bags. They have a thickness of 3 mil. Stretch, Overlap and staple to 2x construction. Door will be covered when lights need to go out for the tortoise.
• Could hook up a humidifier to get more water if needed

1. More humid environment.
2. No exterior light used for table. All lights/heating inside box.
3. Respect Day/Night cycle for tortoise since very bright for 16 hours in the room where the table sits.

jaizei said:

Repti Zoo aren't reliable UVB bulbs; Arcadia or Zoo Med are better brands.

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Yvonne G said:

Wow! Someone has done his research!! Good job!. I commend you on hanging the lights rather than using the clamp the fixtures come with. I love the viewing bench. My only suggestion is plants or other visual barriers. How boring his life will be to wake up every morning and see his whole world, from one side to the other, at a glance. It would be much more interesting for him to have to navigate around obstacles to see what's on the other side.

Take a look at craigslist.com several times a day. There's usually a tortoise on there looking for a home (but DON'T be suckered into getting a sulcata. Your tort table is good for a russian, but horrible for a sulcata). Watch the SPCA's site for tortoises. Contact Julie at Turtle Rescue Long Island. She's on facebook and sometimes has russian tortoises.

Good luck on your search, and be sure to keep us in the loop.

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• Christmas Cactus
• Spider Plant
• Aloe vera

David Steere said:

Thank you all for the tips! I have an idea how I can incorporate all of them but will take a little time to get the material. Stay tuned.

In meantime I have this piece of my project coming in today and want to start to experiment on how to grow in my basement during colder months. Back in the day when I owned a plant nursery I used straight perlite for my cuttings. I have no experience on this type of planting indoors.

So I have these...

18 Pot Seed Starting Tray Kit

View attachment 368999
... and this ...

SEED MIX: BROADLEAF TESTUDO MIX

View attachment 369000

I plan on letting them grow and with a pair of clean scissors ( only thing the scissors will ever be used for ) cut and feed to my tortoise.

Questions:

• Best soil to use. Can I use any soil? Coconut Coir, Compost, Loam from garden, Potting soil?
• What kind of lighting is needed? Do I need special lighting or bright LED enough?
• When ready to harvest I plan on cutting about an inch above soil in pot do I throw away roots and start over or will these grow back or die?
• Do I just cover the whole top of soil in pots with seeds or do I try to space them?
• Do I try to separate seeds to have the same in each pot? Not sure if that is even possible.
• How high do I let them grow?

Anyone with any experience with this product indoors let me know.

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David Steere said:

Thank you!

Do I need a new complete unit or just a lamp replacement? If so can I use what I have now and when I need to replace lamp than purchase new unit/lamp?

Using Solarmeter Model 6.5R UV Index Meter Reptile Accessory, Green seems to work correctly. At least the numbers change depending how far you are to the light source.

View attachment 369059

Could you, if you have time send me a link from Chewy.com or other endor of what you recommend?

So for bothering you and sorry for asking so may questions.

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David Steere said:

Thank you all for the tips! I have an idea how I can incorporate all of them but will take a little time to get the material. Stay tuned.

In meantime I have this piece of my project coming in today and want to start to experiment on how to grow in my basement during colder months. Back in the day when I owned a plant nursery I used straight perlite for my cuttings. I have no experience on this type of planting indoors.

So I have these...

18 Pot Seed Starting Tray Kit

View attachment 368999
... and this ...

SEED MIX: BROADLEAF TESTUDO MIX

View attachment 369000

I plan on letting them grow and with a pair of clean scissors ( only thing the scissors will ever be used for ) cut and feed to my tortoise.

Questions:

• Best soil to use. Can I use any soil? Coconut Coir, Compost, Loam from garden, Potting soil?
• What kind of lighting is needed? Do I need special lighting or bright LED enough?
• When ready to harvest I plan on cutting about an inch above soil in pot do I throw away roots and start over or will these grow back or die?
• Do I just cover the whole top of soil in pots with seeds or do I try to space them?
• Do I try to separate seeds to have the same in each pot? Not sure if that is even possible.
• How high do I let them grow?

Anyone with any experience with this product indoors let me know.

Click to expand...

David Steere said:

Creating a closed chamber on my existing Tortoise Table.
Starting to addressing some concerns

1. More humid environment.
2. No exterior light used for table. All lights/heating inside box.
3. Respect Day/Night cycle for tortoise since very bright for 16 hours in the room where the table sits.

Will let everyone know how high I can get the humidify. Lumber is on its way. Wish me luck!

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David Steere said:

Do I need a new complete unit or just a lamp replacement?

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Alex and the Redfoot said:

@Tom If the room's ambient humidity is 30-50%, under CHEs and basking lamp it will be even lower. Is it still okay to use open table? I thought that gradient 50-70% is optimal.

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