New to the forum and have plenty of questions about my new Leo hatchling.

[tortellini617]

Hello all!

First let me say thank you so much to everyone who contributes to this forum. I've been lurking here since I got my new baby leopard after Thanksgiving at a tiny 20g, and have since changed everything about his/her habitat thanks to all the great information here. I'm at work right now but can attach a pic of the enclosure later today.

I went from a cool/dry open table the first week to about 80% humidity and 85* F (100W CHE & Fogger on a thermostat), added a glass cover and tarp to the enclosure, added a humid hide, and I have really seen the results! The little one has grown to 35g in the 3 weeks and is now munching on all different types of leafy greens and weeds (but still won't touch Mazuri) that I feed in the morning and at night. I soak him almost every day for about 30-45 minutes in warm water.

I still have a couple questions to make sure I can provide the little one with the best care I can.

1. He/She came to me with really wrinkled looking scutes. I assumed it was because it was just out of the shell, but they haven't smoothed out at all since. Anything to worry about?

2. What is the max basking temp for a hatchling to feel comfortable? It is difficult for me to keep the basking temp at 105 because the UVA bulb is not on the thermostat. Mine typically ends up at around 108-109 when I return after work.

3. If the little one is asleep in the humid hide when I get back, should I still try to get him out to soak? I feel bad as he is very startled if I try to get him out, but he always poops in the soak and chows down after so I don't want him to miss that.

4. Any tips/tricks to get hatchlings to eat mazuri? I tried dissolving it and rubbing all over greens, but he doesn't seem to want to eat after that. Same question for calcium supplements.

5. The greens I give wilt pretty quickly in the enclosure, and it seems that he loses interest if they are not fresh and crisp. Would serving them frozen help to keep them crisper throughout the day? I assume they will thaw pretty quickly.

Thanks again! Looking forward to a happy healthy tort to share with everyone.

 

[BILBO-03]

Hi and Welcome!
I'll do my best to answer your questions,

1. I can't see your pictures so I'm not sure although I have noticed on baby tortoises the kinda have a line down there back, is that what your talking about?

2. That is probably ok but you could raise the bulb then it wouldn't get so hot. Does he stay away from the basking spot if so that probably means it's to hot.

3. Are you soaking him in the evenings it's best to do right when you wake up I would soak him while his lights are warming up the cage then feed him.

4. I would just try to mix in it the best you can it will take time but be patient. Also you could put it on top of his favorite food.

5. I Wouldn't feed him greens frozen but where are you putting his food because if it's under the basking bulb it will dry out quickly but otherwise I don't think there's too much you can do about that.

I hope I helped but more experienced people will chime in soon

 

[Yvonne G]

Hi, and welcome to the Forum!

I think I see what you're talking about - there's quite a dent in the front, left section of the carapace. Hopefully that will smooth out as he grows ('he' is just an easier reference), but I also see a cute little extra scute down in front of that bump. I have a soft spot for those aberrant scute tortoises. So I love your baby!!

Some of my tortoises eat Mazuri, some don't. Since I feed natural (green) foods, I don't worry about it if they don't eat it.

I can't answer the basking question because I don't ever check the temps in my enclosures. I just go by the tortoises' actions.

I have always found it best to soak and feed in the mornings. When I was a working stiff I had to get up BEFORE zero dark thirty to tend to the animals before I got ready to go to work. So I soak in the a.m. while I preparing the food.

For baby tortoises, I chop up a nice variety into tiny bite-sized pieces. I don't see if it wilts because it's a big pile of tiny pieces, which they eat up readily.

 

[cmacusa3]

Hello all!

First let me say thank you so much to everyone who contributes to this forum. I've been lurking here since I got my new baby leopard after Thanksgiving at a tiny 20g, and have since changed everything about his/her habitat thanks to all the great information here. I'm at work right now but can attach a pic of the enclosure later today.

I went from a cool/dry open table the first week to about 80% humidity and 85* F (100W CHE & Fogger on a thermostat), added a glass cover and tarp to the enclosure, added a humid hide, and I have really seen the results! The little one has grown to 35g in the 3 weeks and is now munching on all different types of leafy greens and weeds (but still won't touch Mazuri) that I feed in the morning and at night. I soak him almost every day for about 30-45 minutes in warm water.

I still have a couple questions to make sure I can provide the little one with the best care I can.

1. He/She came to me with really wrinkled looking scutes. I assumed it was because it was just out of the shell, but they haven't smoothed out at all since. Anything to worry about?

2. What is the max basking temp for a hatchling to feel comfortable? It is difficult for me to keep the basking temp at 105 because the UVA bulb is not on the thermostat. Mine typically ends up at around 108-109 when I return after work.

3. If the little one is asleep in the humid hide when I get back, should I still try to get him out to soak? I feel bad as he is very startled if I try to get him out, but he always poops in the soak and chows down after so I don't want him to miss that.

4. Any tips/tricks to get hatchlings to eat mazuri? I tried dissolving it and rubbing all over greens, but he doesn't seem to want to eat after that. Same question for calcium supplements.

5. The greens I give wilt pretty quickly in the enclosure, and it seems that he loses interest if they are not fresh and crisp. Would serving them frozen help to keep them crisper throughout the day? I assume they will thaw pretty quickly.

Thanks again! Looking forward to a happy healthy tort to share with everyone.

View attachment 196873 View attachment 196874

1. I have one that had a few dents but have mostly grown out over time.

2. I think those temps are fine, but if you can raise it just a little it might be perfect

3. I've soaked at different times and think either is good.

4. I have a few that would eat mazuri while they were really small and I have one at over 300 grams that still wont touch it.

5. I agree with Yvonne cut it up small and that tends to work better. I've moved my food around and found a spot just away from my light and it seems to keep fresh longer


Welcome to the forum, cute little one by the way.

 

[cmacusa3]

Hi and Welcome!
I'll do my best to answer your questions,

1. I can't see your pictures so I'm not sure although I have noticed on baby tortoises the kinda have a line down there back, is that what your talking about?

2. That is probably ok but you could raise the bulb then it wouldn't get so hot. Does he stay away from the basking spot if so that probably means it's to hot.

3. Are you soaking him in the evenings it's best to do right when you wake up I would soak him while his lights are warming up the cage then feed him.

4. I would just try to mix in it the best you can it will take time but be patient. Also you could put it on top of his favorite food.

5. I Wouldn't feed him greens frozen but where are you putting his food because if it's under the basking bulb it will dry out quickly but otherwise I don't think there's too much you can do about that.

I hope I helped but more experienced people will chime in soon

Great advice young man, you're going to be a great tort owner.

 

[Grandpa Turtle 144]

Hello all!

First let me say thank you so much to everyone who contributes to this forum. I've been lurking here since I got my new baby leopard after Thanksgiving at a tiny 20g, and have since changed everything about his/her habitat thanks to all the great information here. I'm at work right now but can attach a pic of the enclosure later today.

I went from a cool/dry open table the first week to about 80% humidity and 85* F (100W CHE & Fogger on a thermostat), added a glass cover and tarp to the enclosure, added a humid hide, and I have really seen the results! The little one has grown to 35g in the 3 weeks and is now munching on all different types of leafy greens and weeds (but still won't touch Mazuri) that I feed in the morning and at night. I soak him almost every day for about 30-45 minutes in warm water.

I still have a couple questions to make sure I can provide the little one with the best care I can.

1. He/She came to me with really wrinkled looking scutes. I assumed it was because it was just out of the shell, but they haven't smoothed out at all since. Anything to worry about?

2. What is the max basking temp for a hatchling to feel comfortable? It is difficult for me to keep the basking temp at 105 because the UVA bulb is not on the thermostat. Mine typically ends up at around 108-109 when I return after work.

3. If the little one is asleep in the humid hide when I get back, should I still try to get him out to soak? I feel bad as he is very startled if I try to get him out, but he always poops in the soak and chows down after so I don't want him to miss that.

4. Any tips/tricks to get hatchlings to eat mazuri? I tried dissolving it and rubbing all over greens, but he doesn't seem to want to eat after that. Same question for calcium supplements.

5. The greens I give wilt pretty quickly in the enclosure, and it seems that he loses interest if they are not fresh and crisp. Would serving them frozen help to keep them crisper throughout the day? I assume they will thaw pretty quickly.

Thanks again! Looking forward to a happy healthy tort to share with everyone.

View attachment 196873 View attachment 196874

Hi
I'll let everybody else help you with your questions except # 4 get a coffee grinder . Cause I grind egg shells in to a powder for a calcium supplement . Because I don't know what's in a store supplement ! And as far as Mazuri I run it through the grinder to make it a real fine powder out of it and sprinkle it lightly over the food !

 

[tortellini617]

Thanks everyone for the great responses.

1. I think its cute but just wanted to make sure it wasn't a problem or a sign of dehydration now or as a youngster before I got him.

2. I've raised the bulb, but is there any height too high where I begin to lose the UVA/UVB? It's probably about 10-12 inches above ground level now. He doesn't bask much so I believe 108 is too hot for him.

Also, do most people here use two CHEs or any other heating method? I find the 100w to be pretty weak for generating heat anywhere but directly below the "bulb" and since they are on the same hook the two heat sources are very close, probably heating up the basking site too much, but keeping the rest of the enclosure from getting warm enough.

3. I'm not a morning person but seems like the consensus is morning soaks are best. I do see him moving around when I'm leaving so looks like mornings it is.

4. Love the idea of grinding it up and sparkling on dry. I tried this with wet but it was so messy, smelled terrible, and he still didn't eat it.

5. Thanks for the advice on bite-sized pieces. I typically serve him 1-inch pieces, but I do see him struggling sometimes on the leafier greens to get a bite off and every one in a while gives up. Bit sized sounds like a great thing to try.

 

[cmacusa3]

Do you have a thermostat for the CHE? Depending on the size you may need 2 CHE for keeping the night temps above 80. Are you using a closed or open enclosure

On#2 depending on the UVB bulb. It should tell you on the box what's a good height

 

[Maverick]

In my situation I soak my tortoise's in the evening. I think as long as your doing it consistently your fine. Your tortoise will get used to your schedule.

 

[tortellini617]

Do you have a thermostat for the CHE? Depending on the size you may need 2 CHE for keeping the night temps above 80. Are you using a closed or open enclosure

On#2 depending on the UVB bulb. It should tell you on the box what's a good height

The CHE is on a thermostat for 85, but the thermostat is consistently closer to 83 so it's almost always on except for the middle of the day. Do you suggest a stronger CHE or another one on the other side of the enclosure?

 

[cmacusa3]

The CHE is on a thermostat for 85, but the thermostat is consistently closer to 83 so it's almost always on except for the middle of the day. Do you suggest a stronger CHE or another one on the other side of the enclosure?

I have one enclosure that I have 2 in because it's so long so I put them about 4' apart and it keeps good temps but it's also in my garage where it gets colder at night.

My other enclosures only have 1 and they kick on after the lights go out, they run pretty much all night on a thermostat set at 84 the ends of the enclosure are usually around 81 at night.

All mine are 100 watt

 

[Tom]

Hello and welcome. You need to move your CHE over the middle of the enclosure, and possibly add a second one. They can both run on the same thermostat to maintain ambient.

I see that your questions have been answered, but I also see that my answers will differ a bit:
1. Some smooth out over time and some don't. Worrying won't change it.
2. I agree that the bulb needs to be raised a bit. 95-100 is all you need. More than that will just dry them and the enclosure out more.
3. Soak whenever it is convenient for you. My schedule is highly variable and erratic. I soak then whenever I have time to soak them. It can be any hour of the day, and it can be different day to day. It does not matter.
4. I wouldn't worry about it if he doesn't like it. They don't "need" it. Try soaking a small broken off piece until it is mushy. Then mix it in with the greens of the day. Most people start trying to introduce new foods with far too large of a quantity. Start with a tiny tidbit.
5. I don't worry about the wilting. If fed the right amounts, there isn't a lot left to wilt. I do not like to chop up the food for babies. I find that it makes it harder for them to eat. I like them to have the weight of the whole leaf for them to pull against so they can bite off pieces that are the right size for their mouth. If you freeze your greens they will usually turn to mush. Try it.

 

[tortellini617]

Thanks for the reply Tom. I tend to agree with not chopping the leaf to small. He seems to get frustrated if the leaves aren't puffed up around mouth level. If it's flat on the ground he can't really get to it.

I tried crushing up the mazuri on top of the salad and he ate it right up without hesitation. Suhwweeet!

I also raised the UV, 'dimmed' the CHE next to it a bit, and ordered another for the other side. I'm using one of the ZooMed tortoise tables but got a glass fish tank lid to put on the open side and cover the entire thing with a tarp.

Here's a pic of the setup. (there is a tupperware cutout under the large cave [about 1/3 of the size] to retain moisture.) Anything else I should change?

 

[tortellini617]

Update: First morning soak attempt and the lil guy was wide awake and easy to plop into the bath, no having to dig him out of the hut.

I was happy to see when I returned from work that he had demolished every piece of the food I gave him, even with calcium and Mazuri sprinkled on top. He typically only finishes about half of that amount during the day and another leaf or two of something after an evening soak.

If that's how much better he eats after morning soaks, then looks like I have an early riser for now. That is until I can convince him evening soaks are much better.

Thanks all for your tips!