Confused in Alaska

[alaskabeardogs]

Hello everyone, I live on the kenai peninsula in Alaska. My name is Susan and my Russian tortoises name is Lil Buddy. I'm not sure how old he is, he's approximate 5" from front to back of the shell. He was a rescue. I mean literally was rescued, and was very cold and very lethargic. Took him to the Vet immediately and was given instructions to get him warmed up! He had been left outside in the rain and wind for close to a month. He's doing super good now and I believe he's healthy.
Ok now to my point. I literally research daily questions I have on what to feed, what substrate, what heat lamps, lighting lamps, etc. I did read quite a bit that was written for us tortoise beginners when I registered here. It was great information, thank you. But I'm still confused on the feeding. I read that kale is great for getting their calcium. Then I'll read that kale is not good. Buy a calcium supplement instead. So I need an absolute answer to feed kale or not.
This is what I feed, romaine lettuce, kale, red leaf lettuce, collard greens, periodically a piece of yellow bell pepper. I say periodically because he loves it and won't eat his greens if he eats it first. I have to buy from the grocery store, winter is upon us here, so no collecting weeds till next summer. I bought dome dried flowers from petco, but he's not interested. What else can I feed???? Also, I'm not sure what is an appropriate amount of food he is supposed to be eating daily? I have the petco water dish, but will pickup a Tera cotta dish soon, thank you to the beginners information that has been written.
I'm trying to absorb all the information possible on the right things to do for my
tortoise. I had no idea that I would become a tortoise owner overnight. In an emergency to built an enclosure we had no idea that his enclosure should of been built larger. His enclosure measures 2'x4'. I'll attach a picture. I read it's to be very large, but what is considered large? I'm sure my husband will build me another enclosure when he gets over having to build this one for me. For substrate I used forest floor, and coco coir. I see now that I need to order that orchid something. I saw someone posted a picture of it. Ok now for that last question, should I be misting the enclosure, and what temp should the humidity gage read?? Thank you all for all your wisdom. I'm reading your posts, and learning lots!!

 

[TammyJ]

Welcome to the forum to you and your tortoise!

 

[wellington]

Kale is fine but not as a main diet
Add spring mix, ridicchio, endive, mustard and collard greens, arugula. Dandelion if your stores carry it and also cactus pads. Even ask them if they can get it, you never know.
You can also try adding some mazuri tortoise food
It's okay to add a small pinch of calcium to the diet 2 times a week or put in a cuttlebone and he can help himself when he wants more calcium.

 

[SuzanneZ]

Hello everyone, I live on the kenai peninsula in Alaska. My name is Susan and my Russian tortoises name is Lil Buddy. I'm not sure how old he is, he's approximate 5" from front to back of the shell. He was a rescue. I mean literally was rescued, and was very cold and very lethargic. Took him to the Vet immediately and was given instructions to get him warmed up! He had been left outside in the rain and wind for close to a month. He's doing super good now and I believe he's healthy.
Ok now to my point. I literally research daily questions I have on what to feed, what substrate, what heat lamps, lighting lamps, etc. I did read quite a bit that was written for us tortoise beginners when I registered here. It was great information, thank you. But I'm still confused on the feeding. I read that kale is great for getting their calcium. Then I'll read that kale is not good. Buy a calcium supplement instead. So I need an absolute answer to feed kale or not.
This is what I feed, romaine lettuce, kale, red leaf lettuce, collard greens, periodically a piece of yellow bell pepper. I say periodically because he loves it and won't eat his greens if he eats it first. I have to buy from the grocery store, winter is upon us here, so no collecting weeds till next summer. I bought dome dried flowers from petco, but he's not interested. What else can I feed???? Also, I'm not sure what is an appropriate amount of food he is supposed to be eating daily? I have the petco water dish, but will pickup a Tera cotta dish soon, thank you to the beginners information that has been written.
I'm trying to absorb all the information possible on the right things to do for my
tortoise. I had no idea that I would become a tortoise owner overnight. In an emergency to built an enclosure we had no idea that his enclosure should of been built larger. His enclosure measures 2'x4'. I'll attach a picture. I read it's to be very large, but what is considered large? I'm sure my husband will build me another enclosure when he gets over having to build this one for me. For substrate I used forest floor, and coco coir. I see now that I need to order that orchid something. I saw someone posted a picture of it. Ok now for that last question, should I be misting the enclosure, and what temp should the humidity gage read?? Thank you all for all your wisdom. I'm reading your posts, and learning lots!!

LOL yellow bell pepper and husband in recovery! I'm new so I'm useless, but you're doing so well so far. When they wake up, the people who remember if kale is good or bad will let you know. I've read the conflicted kale, too, so I don't use it. I live in Mississippi, so my two Russians get mustard and turnip greens a lot. Yellow squash, limited zucchini because that is suggested (they love it), little bit of bell pepper and other stuff on occasion.
Welcome!

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Hello! Welcome to the forum and thank you for taking care of you little guy. You are doing right thing right.
If you haven't seen this care sheet - it's definitely worth looking at (Link) Many of your questions are answered there.
1. Feeding kale is alright. But no matter how great it is, proper tortoise diet is about variety (and less lettuces like iceberg and more leafy greens). So you are on the right track, and if you don't mind growing your own plants at home - you can go this way too. Dried flowers and similar additives usually won't excite your tortoise, you have to add them gradualy, in small amount, mixing a bit with his favourite or usual food.
2. Feed him daily as much as he wants to. Leave the food bowl for a day. If everything's eaten - put a bit more next day. By the end of the day only a few pieces should remain.
3. Right size enclosure is twice as large as yours in all directions (yes, this little things need a lot of space to roam) - so it's 4x8 ft (the more the better).
4. Forest floor (cypress mulch, actually) and coco coir are good substrates too. You don't need to rush and change it for orchid bark. All three hold moisture well, don't mold and safe for adult tortoises. Bark is just the least messy of all three.
5. You don't need to mist enclosure. Pouring some water in the corners once in a few days should be enough. Easiest way to keep air humid in the enclosure is portable greenhouse top and it helps with temperatures to some extent.
6. Humidity should be around 50-60% and temperatures around 75F across the enclosure with 95F in the basking spot. They can drop to 60-65F at night. Please, check the care sheet I'm not 100% sure about exact numbers.
7. To provide essential UVB lightning you need to use straight tube T5HO lamp. All other lamp types are either ineffective or harmful. UVB lamp should be placed near the basking spot and be on for 2-4 hours a day. You have ceramic heat lamp for ambient temperatures - that's great. For basking spot usual 65W incandescent flood lamp works best. Also ambient light should be provided for 10-12 hours a day - LED strip light with a color temperature of 6000-6500K do the job.

 

[Yvonne G]

Welcome to the Forum, Susan!

 

[EppsDynasty]

Welcome to the foremost information site for turtles and tortoises. You said it right absorb all you can. At first it will seem overwhelming, stick with it and it'll be easier every day.
Again Welcome Susan

 

[zolasmum]

Welcome from England. If you imagine your tortoise's shell as a bowl, then give enough food to fill that bowl at least - -put out more if he looks like he can eat more - they are grazing animals, so it's best to have food available all day. You will soon learn how much he will manage to get through. He won't get fat ! Your enclosure looks lovely -though as you say, you will need a larger one soon - but Russians are enthusiastic escapers,so you will need to watch out for possible exit routes he may try.He can climb much better than you can imagine !!!
Angie

 

[alaskabeardogs]

Hello! Welcome to the forum and thank you for taking care of you little guy. You are doing right thing right.
If you haven't seen this care sheet - it's definitely worth looking at (Link) Many of your questions are answered there.
1. Feeding kale is alright. But no matter how great it is, proper tortoise diet is about variety (and less lettuces like iceberg and more leafy greens). So you are on the right track, and if you don't mind growing your own plants at home - you can go this way too. Dried flowers and similar additives usually won't excite your tortoise, you have to add them gradualy, in small amount, mixing a bit with his favourite or usual food.
2. Feed him daily as much as he wants to. Leave the food bowl for a day. If everything's eaten - put a bit more next day. By the end of the day only a few pieces should remain.
3. Right size enclosure is twice as large as yours in all directions (yes, this little things need a lot of space to roam) - so it's 4x8 ft (the more the better).
4. Forest floor (cypress mulch, actually) and coco coir are good substrates too. You don't need to rush and change it for orchid bark. All three hold moisture well, don't mold and safe for adult tortoises. Bark is just the least messy of all three.
5. You don't need to mist enclosure. Pouring some water in the corners once in a few days should be enough. Easiest way to keep air humid in the enclosure is portable greenhouse top and it helps with temperatures to some extent.
6. Humidity should be around 50-60% and temperatures around 75F across the enclosure with 95F in the basking spot. They can drop to 60-65F at night. Please, check the care sheet I'm not 100% sure about exact numbers.
7. To provide essential UVB lightning you need to use straight tube T5HO lamp. All other lamp types are either ineffective or harmful. UVB lamp should be placed near the basking spot and be on for 2-4 hours a day. You have ceramic heat lamp for ambient temperatures - that's great. For basking spot usual 65W incandescent flood lamp works best. Also ambient light should be provided for 10-12 hours a day - LED strip light with a color temperature of 6000-6500K do the job.

Thank you for the info. I just Google the uvb light you mentioned, the uvbt5ho lamp. I'll attach a picture and let me know if this is the one.
Then, I'm not understanding, are there to be two different heat sources, one above the basking area and one else where?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Thank you for the info. I just Google the uvb light you mentioned, the uvbt5ho lamp. I'll attach a picture and let me know if this is the one.
Then, I'm not understanding, are there to be two different heat sources, one above the basking area and one else where?

1. Yes, it's *almost* the one you need. It's T5 HO (high output) lamp. UV lamps differ in amount of UV they produce. ReptiSun 5.0 lamps are more suitable for shade-loving species with low UV requirements, such as redfoots. You need ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0 or Arcadia Desert 12% lamp (I assume lamp mounting height about 18-20 inches). Also, lamps differ in length, but to provide UV at the basking spot you don't need a long one (22" is more than enough). And the last one - lamps need a fixture and there are convenient lamp + fixture kits (like ProT5 Kit by Arcadia, ZooMed has kits too). And I'm glad you've asked before placing an order
2. If temperature outside the basking spot drops lower than 60-65F at night and 70-75F at daytime, than yes, you will need an ambient heat source (either to warm the entire room or to use a heater in the enclosure). It would be tricky to make basking spot and ambient temperatures stable using a single heat source and a thermostat.

If something is not clear - please, ask. I'll try my best to clarify.

 

[alaskabeardogs]

This is Susan in Alaska again, I'm attaching a video of Lil Buddy. When I first got him I had to trim his beak, it looked like an elephant's trunk. I Googled and watched videos, I used toenail clippers and got it shortened some. That was approximately a month and a half ago. Well, on his right side of his mouth it's splitting. I'm sure it needs trimmed off. Please advice! Is this a job for a Vet? The video wouldn't attach, so here's a picture.

 

[zolasmum]

This is Susan in Alaska again, I'm attaching a video of Lil Buddy. When I first got him I had to trim his beak, it looked like an elephant's trunk. I Googled and watched videos, I used toenail clippers and got it shortened some. That was approximately a month and a half ago. Well, on his right side of his mouth it's splitting. I'm sure it needs trimmed off. Please advice! Is this a job for a Vet? The video wouldn't attach, so here's a picture.

I'm not an expert, but I would be inclined to go to a vet, who can even it up properly with a dremel sanding tool.
Angie

 

[alaskabeardogs]

I'm not an expert, but I would be inclined to go to a vet, who can even it up properly with a dremel sanding tool.
Angie

I would of never thought in a million years that a tortoise took so much care! Lighting, heat sources, substrates, food, supplements, water dishes, plants, hides, proper enclorsers, vet care, etc. But it's all worth it to me! The love I have for my Lil Buddy is crazy.

 

[alaskabeardogs]

1. Yes, it's *almost* the one you need. It's T5 HO (high output) lamp. UV lamps differ in amount of UV they produce. ReptiSun 5.0 lamps are more suitable for shade-loving species with low UV requirements, such as redfoots. You need ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0 or Arcadia Desert 12% lamp (I assume lamp mounting height about 18-20 inches). Also, lamps differ in length, but to provide UV at the basking spot you don't need a long one (22" is more than enough). And the last one - lamps need a fixture and there are convenient lamp + fixture kits (like ProT5 Kit by Arcadia, ZooMed has kits too). And I'm glad you've asked before placing an order
2. If temperature outside the basking spot drops lower than 60-65F at night and 70-75F at daytime, than yes, you will need an ambient heat source (either to warm the entire room or to use a heater in the enclosure). It would be tricky to make basking spot and ambient temperatures stable using a single heat source and a thermostat.

If something is not clear - please, ask. I'll try my best to clarify.

Ok here's a picture of the correct lighting and fixture right?

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

I would of never thought in a million years that a tortoise took so much care! Lighting, heat sources, substrates, food, supplements, water dishes, plants, hides, proper enclorsers, vet care, etc. But it's all worth it to me! The love I have for my Lil Buddy is crazy.

So true But it's a very rewarding experience to see your tortoise thriving. Yet it's just a hard start, once everything is set up - make some tea, relax and watch. I was really happy when discovered TFO - so many answers, even for the questions I didn't even thought about.

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Ok here's a picture of the correct lighting and fixture right?

Yes, perfect!

 

[alaskabeardogs]

So true But it's a very rewarding experience to see your tortoise thriving. Yet it's just a hard start, once everything is set up - make some tea, relax and watch. I was really happy when discovered TFO - so many answers, even for the questions I didn't even thought about.

Yes, I'm so happy to be amoungest like minded people!!

 

[zolasmum]

One more thing about taking your little one to the vet - ask him to let you watch the beak trimming - and how to hold his head to do it.
Angie

 

[alaskabeardogs]

One more thing about taking your little one to the vet - ask him to let you watch the beak trimming - and how to hold his head to do it.
Angie

Ok I will, good idea.

 

[SuzanneZ]

I'm not an expert, but I would be inclined to go to a vet, who can even it up properly with a dremel sanding too

So true But it's a very rewarding experience to see your tortoise thriving. Yet it's just a hard start, once everything is set up - make some tea, relax and watch. I was really happy when discovered TFO - so many answers, even for the questions I didn't even thought about.

Deep pockets help. Wonder where I could find some.