UVB bulb for redfoots

[jmaneyapanda]

So, Im finding some conflicting info on whether I need sto provide a UVB bulb for the redfoot juvenile I have coming. I see that belly heat is a thing to avoid, but was planning on running a powersun bulb opposite a ceramic heater, but am questioning whether the powersun UVB producing bulb is necessary.

I do understand these are rainforest tortoises that wouldnt be basking is dead sun like a grassland species, but just want to provide the best environment.

It will be an indoor tortoise (with outdoor "trips" when possible) in Geoprgia in a home that typical runs at 72-74 degrees.

 

[jaizei]

In the southern states, I think you should be able to get them outdoors enough that UVB indoors isn't as crucial. You should look into the Tortoise Library, it is a good reference especially for redfoot tortoises.

 

[Yvonne G]

Hi jmaneyapanda:

Welcome to the Tortoise Forum!!

The link jaizei gave you is a good resource. I don't keep RF tortoises, but from what I've read, you can probably get by with a tube-type UV bulb and the CHE.

May we know your name?

 

[Redstrike]

I agree with Yvonne & Jaizei, you're in the south so a UVB tube fluorescent is probably fine augmented with lots of outdoor time.

 

[StudentoftheReptile]

Here is a link to my current set-up for my juvenile redfoots: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-130-gal-Closed-Top-Tank-Progression-Thread#axzz20ctDVIqC

Belly heat isn't totally bad, as long as you do it right. I use waterproof heat rope that helps keep the substrate warm and humid.

For heating & lighting, I run a ceramic heat emitter 24/7 as a basking heat source. For UVB, I have a 5.0 Repti-Glo tube florescent fixture on for 12 hrs a day.

 

[N2TORTS]

You should try and have your UVB source cover as much of the cage area as possible, not just the basking spot and remember UVB can be diluted or blocked by many things such as screen tops , glass and plexi glass. Most folks with indoor tank type setups us a “ hood top /light fixture” manufacturers are now selling fixtures with a plastic guard over the light. If you have one of these REMOVE THE PLASTIC! UVB cannot pass through it!
A trip to the local depot and pet shop ….here is a nice inexpensive way and perfect for RF’s. Go ahead and purchase a 4 foot shop light , and use two 4' ZooMed bulbs in it. Bulbs should last around 6 months. Your right Rf's do not need as much UVB as some of our other shelled buddies , with proper diet and the BEST natural sunlight exposer for few hours a day , it's visible to have a happy indoor RF. Your indoor temps are not bad .. but 80+ and humid is better~ although always provide a dark " cool" spot for refuge from the heat and light . Best to use timers and even possible intravals.

JD~

 

[jmaneyapanda]

In the southern states, I think you should be able to get them outdoors enough that UVB indoors isn't as crucial. You should look into the Tortoise Library, it is a good reference especially for redfoot tortoises.

Thanks, I have looked at that link previously too. I do plan on have outdoor time, but, in true realities sake, Im not sure what my commitment will be to allow that (In other words, I dont want to put all my eggs in one basket and COUNT on outdoor time allow all UVB). So, I just want to make sure I had an above adequate indoor setup too.

Hi jmaneyapanda:

Welcome to the Tortoise Forum!!

The link jaizei gave you is a good resource. I don't keep RF tortoises, but from what I've read, you can probably get by with a tube-type UV bulb and the CHE.

May we know your name?

Hi, my name is Jeremy. I am a very experienced exotic animal keeper, having worked in a number of zoos and aquariums. I have just never kept this species before, so I wanted some "real life" experience as the best requiremnets to provide the best home.

I agree with Yvonne & Jaizei, you're in the south so a UVB tube fluorescent is probably fine augmented with lots of outdoor time.

I already have a "cone" reflector and stand, so I was hoping to use a flood UVB source, rather than a fluorescent tube, but I am questioning the necessity now. As I mentioned, I can say I dop plan on having outside as much as possible, but I want to make sure Im not neglecting his indoor quarters if I cant get him out as much as Id like to or plan to.

Here is a link to my current set-up for my juvenile redfoots: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/Thread-130-gal-Closed-Top-Tank-Progression-Thread#axzz20ctDVIqC

Belly heat isn't totally bad, as long as you do it right. I use waterproof heat rope that helps keep the substrate warm and humid.

For heating & lighting, I run a ceramic heat emitter 24/7 as a basking heat source. For UVB, I have a 5.0 Repti-Glo tube florescent fixture on for 12 hrs a day.

Yeah, Ive looked into the whole belly heat issue a lot. I know its not "bad", I just am planning on heating a different way. Thanks for the link.

You should try and have your UVB source cover as much of the cage area as possible, not just the basking spot and remember UVB can be diluted or blocked by many things such as screen tops , glass and plexi glass. Most folks with indoor tank type setups us a “ hood top /light fixture” manufacturers are now selling fixtures with a plastic guard over the light. If you have one of these REMOVE THE PLASTIC! UVB cannot pass through it!
A trip to the local depot and pet shop ….here is a nice inexpensive way and perfect for RF’s. Go ahead and purchase a 4 foot shop light , and use two 4' ZooMed bulbs in it. Bulbs should last around 6 months. Your right Rf's do not need as much UVB as some of our other shelled buddies , with proper diet and the BEST natural sunlight exposer for few hours a day , it's visible to have a happy indoor RF. Your indoor temps are not bad .. but 80+ and humid is better~ although always provide a dark " cool" spot for refuge from the heat and light . Best to use timers and even possible intravals.

JD~

I have the UVB spot planned to give a pretty good distribution over the living area. As I mentioned earlier, I wasnt planning a fluorescent, so to speak, over a spot lamp, but I can go either way, really. I just want to give the best home. I am quite familiar with the effects and necessities of UV and lens. I actually own and operate an aquarium company, and we need to deal with UV issues constantly. Thanks for the input.



As I mentioned above, I am very familair with exotics and their requiremnets. I just ahve never kept this species before, and wanted some real life, true experience. And, unlike a lot of forum users, who ask questions, and ignore the 99 people who tell them the correct way to do it in lieu of the 1 person that said what theyw anted to hear, I will listen to the strongest, truest advice. Thanks all!!

 

[Yvonne G]

And, unlike a lot of forum users, who ask questions, and ignore the 99 people who tell them the correct way to do it in lieu of the 1 person that said what they wanted to hear, I will listen to the strongest, truest advice. Thanks all!!

Whew! What a pleasant surprise. I hope we have a long and fruitful relationship.

 

[Madkins007]

UVB- Don't sweat this as long as you can offer some outside time- as little as a half-hour a week over a few sessions is probably plenty, but more is OK... as long as the tort can decide to hide in the shade or sun.

Belly heat- that is a vague phrase that I dislike. We want to encourage a warm substrate- not hot, but not one that is sucking the heat from the tort either. If your substrate is routinely warmish, then this is not a problem for you. Here in my cool house in the winter in Omaha, it usually is.

Rainforest species- The red-foot ranges over an area as big as the US, and lives in habitats ranging from open grasslands to scrub or thorn forests to open woodlands to full-on rain forest... although in the forests they are most often found in or near clearings. They bask as often as any other species- both in the wild and in captivity.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

UVB- Don't sweat this as long as you can offer some outside time- as little as a half-hour a week over a few sessions is probably plenty, but more is OK... as long as the tort can decide to hide in the shade or sun.

Belly heat- that is a vague phrase that I dislike. We want to encourage a warm substrate- not hot, but not one that is sucking the heat from the tort either. If your substrate is routinely warmish, then this is not a problem for you. Here in my cool house in the winter in Omaha, it usually is.

Rainforest species- The red-foot ranges over an area as big as the US, and lives in habitats ranging from open grasslands to scrub or thorn forests to open woodlands to full-on rain forest... although in the forests they are most often found in or near clearings. They bask as often as any other species- both in the wild and in captivity.

Excellent comment. Thanks so much. I can DEFINITELY do 1/2 hour a week. Surely more. I guess worrying about a UVB bulb is rather moot for me. I will look into it more, I guess. And the belly heat issue is also something I may need to reconsider. I did believe that I needed to provide a heat source, as my home can dip to the low 70's at night, maybe evcen mid 60's (N. GA mountains get get cold at night!! ), and was planning on accomplishing this with a ceramic heat element. But, perhaps the Kane Mat I already have will work too. I am just overly concerned about too much heat, really.