Feeding redfoots and misc

[StudentoftheReptile]

So those of you who don't know, I recently adopted Mel's 3 young redfoots. I almost feel sorry for them because I've moved them around a few times trying out different tubs and lighting. I finally got the two smaller ones (Toby and Little Foot) in a 10-gal tank with a 40 watt moonlight bulb because that was the only set-up I was able to nail down the ideal temps and humidity. They seem to be responding well to it. The larger glass tank seemed too spacious and the larger tortoises (Shelley and my small sulcata) that currently occupied it (both the size of large potatoes) were rather intimidating.

My main question is: how to entice the little squirts to start eating? I know these guys are rather secretive compared to the outgoing, diurnal sulcatas, so is there a particular time of the day where they are more likely to come out looking for food?

So far, I've offered them finely-grated/mashed vegetable & fruit mix (zucchini, yellow squash, carrots, apples & occasional banana), Spring mix salad greens, various moistened/mashed commercial diets (Mazuri, Rep-Cal, Zoo-Med Forest Tortoise & even a little bit of ZooMed Box Turtle pellets...all mixed with calcium/vD3 powder). Would anyone suggest any specific fruits that would perk up their appetites?

I know I've probably stressed them out by moving them a few times since I got them on Saturday. As of yet, I have not seen any evidence that the larger two redfoots (Shelley and Toby) have eaten. Ironically, the smallest, Little Foot, nibbled a little on some veggies the first night; odd, since this was the little 6-mo-old that Mel was having trouble with, so I supposed that was a good sign!

Anyway, any advice or feedback would be appreciated. I gotta say, I love these guys!
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I know the 10-gal-tank is a little small for two hatchling-size RFs. I do plan to move them into a larger tub after they get acclimated and start eating well. But for now, like I said, the temps and humidity in there are nigh perfect, and I feel the cozy isolation might be better for them before upgrading them into something more spacious.

I also know that housing the larger RF in with my juvie sulcata probably isn't the greatest idea. This also is a very temporary thing since someone will soon be adopting the larger RF from me (which Mel was aware of). And this winter, I'll be working on a more permanent outdoor pen for the sulcata, which will hopefully free-up the big tank for the younger RFs next summer.

 

[jackrat]

It likely just the stress of moveing. It's not unusual for one to quit eating for a week or more following a move. You definatly need to go to something bigger than a 10 gallon tank,and sooner rather than later. No use in having them to acclimate to it,only to move them and make them acclimate again. Just more added stress,which is never good. Go ahead and move them now,let them acclimate and you are done.

 

[Tortoise]

Hi
Like Jackrat said-probably need time to adjust.

Mine were shy to start with but they cannot resist watermelon, strawberry, mushroom, earth worms. they seem to go for red fruits as a lot of tortoises like the colour red it seems. Mine love ripe tomatoes too and grapes.

They seem really good eaters as a rule the red foots and they eat a huge variety of things which is really great.

Good luck I'm sure they will settle very soon-you can always give them a warm soak if you worry that they are not drinking enough.

 

[StudentoftheReptile]

We're going to the store soon, and I'll snag some fruits, hopefully strawberries, grapes or red peppers. Its getting cool around here, so earthworms are going to be hard to come by. What about waxworms?

All my spare heat bulbs are too bright, so I plan to go out this weekend and grab a higher-wattage infrared bulb that I can use on one of my larger tubs. That was another reason I kinda had to make do with the 10-gal for now. It was the only enclosure that bulb would work with to get proper temperatures.

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Speaking of lighting, I know its a controversial debate for Redfoots....but putting aside the UV issue, what would be the best heating strategy for RFs?
- infrared bulbs
- moonlight (blacklight?) bulbs
- ceramic heat emitters
- undertank heaters

....combination of any of the above? Are any of those NOT suggested for any reason? [LOL...I'm sure I'm going to get a lot of "Whatever works best for you" responses!]

 

[jackrat]

I like CHE's.

 

[Madkins007]

What I use now is: waterproof heat ropes under the substrate set to 85 and covering about 2/3rds of the habitat. A MVB over one end, and a CHE over the other (about a 48x20 tank), and a plain bulb shining over it all that runs for about 12 hours a day compared to the MVB's 8.

What I am going to do soon is to change out the MVB with a 36" low-level UVB fluorescent bulb to eliminate the UV hot spot. The rest will stay the same, and I'll add another small CHE if needed to maintain daytime temps correctly.

I am not a fan of the red, blue, and black bulbs, preferring a balanced white light in the day, and true dark at night.

 

[Redstrike]

I find CHE's hooked into a thermostat to be excellent. I also use the heat ropes under moist substrate and have a heating pad (Zoo Med Habitat Heater) at the same end of my MVB. The MVB is positioned ~20 inches above the enclosure, so it doesn't produce an excess of heat while being paired with the heat mat. This is the warm side running around the mid 80's.

 

[StudentoftheReptile]

Where does one acquire these "waterproof heat ropes" you speak? I'm not familiar with them, and they definitely sound worth checking out for my larger enclosure.

 

[Redstrike]

Where does one acquire these "waterproof heat ropes" you speak? I'm not familiar with them, and they definitely sound worth checking out for my larger enclosure.

http://www.bigappleherp.com/Big-Apple-Flexible-Heat-Ropes
According to Mark, they only last about a year.

 

[Madkins007]

Where does one acquire these "waterproof heat ropes" you speak? I'm not familiar with them, and they definitely sound worth checking out for my larger enclosure.

http://www.bigappleherp.com/Big-Apple-Flexible-Heat-Ropes
According to Mark, they only last about a year.

The first one I used lasted about a year- #2 is doing better (although it did spend the summer 'resting').

 

[StudentoftheReptile]

New question: I do plan on offering invertebrates (mealworms, waxworms, etc) for supplement protein. I've read on a few caresheets that catfood is commonly used for RFs. What some of the best types/brands used?

 

[austinl01]

New question: I do plan on offering invertebrates (mealworms, waxworms, etc) for supplement protein. I've read on a few caresheets that catfood is commonly used for RFs. What some of the best types/brands used?

Pro Plan from what I've read is the best.

 

[Redstrike]

If you have a local store that supplies phoenix worms (soldier fly larvae -Hermetia illucens), grab some of those! I hear they also go by the name "reptiworms", I haven't investigated if these names are synonymous yet but was told they were. I purchased some through the mail and I wasn't impressed with the condition they came in, so I'd try to buy them locally if you can.

Soldier fly larvae store a lot of calcium prior to pupation, so they're a great protein source with a good C : P ratio. Others find dubia roaches (Blaptica dubia) suit their needs. If you have hatchlings, I think a very natural way to offer protein is through insects or insect larvae.

 

[Madkins007]

Cat food is cheap and stable, good things for people with large herds. On the other hand, there is nothing in it that makes it any better than other reasonable options.

If you choose cat food, go with a reputable brand with the lowest ash levels and calories you can. "Diet management" versions usually work the best. Our goals with the meat are amino acids, vitamin D, Omega 3 oils and other nutrients that are less common in plants. In general we will aim for things with good calcium levels, low fat, and at least some vitamin D in them.

Other options include a wide variety of worms, bugs, larvae, invertebrates, etc.; fresh or frozen baby rats or mice; chicken or other poultry, or organ meat; lightly cooked egg; 'oily' fish (catfish, mackerel, tuna, salmon).

You don't need much meat (about 5% of the total diet), so it is not a critical choice. I rotate what I offer- usually cooked chicken strips (left over from salads, etc.), canned fish, live worms, and egg- but I also use some canned cat food and cat kibble 'borrowed' from our cat once in a while.