Best Way to Prevent More Pyramiding in Hatchling?

[_The_Beast_]

After having a couple days to really look closely at my little russian's shell, I think he/she was started to dry and already has signs of pyramiding at three months of age (frustrating because they came from one of the three well recommended breeders in Canada). Beyond ensuring proper humidity in the habitat and a good humid hide (closed chamber, humidity 70+), I'm wondering if it would also be advised to increase bath time from once a day to twice a day. Pics attached for reference. Walter-Lily just arrived this past Thursday and is eating well.

 

[wellington]

That's a lot of pyramiding. Russians pyramid the least, it's harder to get them to pyramid. They were started very dry and probably the wrong bulb.
Mercury vapor bulbs should not be used. If you are using one, switch it out for a tube florescent for uvb and an incandescent flood bulb for basking. The humidity for a young one should be 80% an adult 30-50%
That disc gauge you are using is not reliable and you need to replace it with a digital and place it at tortoise height, not above.

 

[Tom]

After having a couple days to really look closely at my little russian's shell, I think he/she was started to dry and already has signs of pyramiding at three months of age (frustrating because they came from one of the three well recommended breeders in Canada). Beyond ensuring proper humidity in the habitat and a good humid hide (closed chamber, humidity 70+), I'm wondering if it would also be advised to increase bath time from once a day to twice a day. Pics attached for reference. Walter-Lily just arrived this past Thursday and is eating well.

That is pretty bad pyramiding for such a little one. Sheesh. Sorry. That breeder needs some education. They will probably not be receptive, but try to get them to come here anyway. We can help.

Here is what you can do:
-Use a closed chamber to keep humidity high.
-Use a humid hide or two in the enclosure. Don't use any moss.
-No need to soak more than once a day, but do have a terra cotta saucer sunk into the substrate for water.
-Use damp orchid bark or damp hand-packed coco coir for substrate.
-Be sure your basking bulb is a regular incandescent flood bulb and not an "intense" spot bulb or halogen or mercury vapor bulb.
-Add potted plants for hiding and security. You can also use safe clipped branches and replace them every couple few days as they wilt. I use mulberry branches, lavatera, grape vines (no grapes, just leaves), hibiscus, rose of Sharon, and sometimes weed bushes too.

 

[_The_Beast_]

Thanks for the quick replies! Not using a MVB. Current lighting is 100W Fluker's Basking Bulb and Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 (hyperlinked both). Ordering a new humidity gauge today and just added another two litres of water to start pushing humidity to 80 and making sure the coco coir isn't drying out. We're using a closed chamber and are now going to also block off the gaps around the lights

We have potted edible plants, packed coco coir, two humid hides, and a sunk in terracotta saucer (hasn't been used yet but it's there).

 

[Maggie3fan]

I don't keep Russians anymore, but I remember they like a pretty good drop in temperature at night. I would be afraid to drop it too far w/80% humidity. @Yvonne G ..temp drop w/humidity? Let's get an expert and not rely on my bad memory...

 

[Tom]

I don't keep Russians anymore, but I remember they like a pretty good drop in temperature at night. I would be afraid to drop it too far w/80% humidity. @Yvonne G ..temp drop w/humidity? Let's get an expert and not rely on my bad memory...

Babies in humid closed chambers are fine dropping into the high 60s at night. I usually recommend 70 ish.

 

[Tom]

Thanks for the quick replies! Not using a MVB. Current lighting is 100W Fluker's Basking Bulb and Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 (hyperlinked both). Ordering a new humidity gauge today and just added another two litres of water to start pushing humidity to 80 and making sure the coco coir isn't drying out. We're using a closed chamber and are now going to also block off the gaps around the lights

We have potted edible plants, packed coco coir, two humid hides, and a sunk in terracotta saucer (hasn't been used yet but it's there).

Both of those bulbs are fine. The Fluker people were very careful to not say what type of bulb that is on the packaging. It looks like its probably a flood bulb. Sometimes that info will be stamped on the rim of the metal part that screws in. The UV bulb will work too.

Other than that, it looks like you are good to go. Now just let the humidity do its work for the next few months and years.

 

[_The_Beast_]

Both of those bulbs are fine. The Fluker people were very careful to not say what type of bulb that is on the packaging. It looks like its probably a flood bulb. Sometimes that info will be stamped on the rim of the metal part that screws in. The UV bulb will work too.

Other than that, it looks like you are good to go. Now just let the humidity do its work for the next few months and years.

Thank you so much everyone, I really appreciate it. And yes, the Fluker bulb is a flood bulb.

 

[Tom]

Thank you so much everyone, I really appreciate it. And yes, the Fluker bulb is a flood bulb.

That is good. Flood bulbs create less desiccation on the carapace. Be sure the bulb height is set correctly. Too hot of a basking bulb can make the pyramiding worse. Check the basking temperature by laying a digital thermometer on its back directly under the lamp at tortoise shell height. For a 3 month old Testudo, you don't need to prop it up on anything. There should be a flat rock or tile of some sort directly under your basking bulb too. Let the thermometer bake for an hour or more. This will tell you your basking temperature and whether or not you need to raise the bulb or not. It should be right around 35-36C.

 

[_The_Beast_]

Question: when a tort chooses not to use any of their humid hides and instead take matters into their own hands..... Should I just leave them be?

 

[wellington]

Question: when a tort chooses not to use any of their humid hides and instead take matters into their own hands..... Should I just leave them be?

Russians do like to burrow. The substrate should be damp, so it will be humid for him. He's fine digging in. Just be sure he comes out every day, eats, bask, etc, otherwise the temps may be off or he needs it brighter so he doesn't want to brumate.

 

[_The_Beast_]

Just a quick update to say that the digital hygrometer has been really helpful and makes it a lot easier to maintain the right humidity level. We move it around sometimes to make sure things are consistent and it's been great.

 

[_The_Beast_]

Sharing a positive update: it's been a couple months and the new growth is super smooth!! Here's a pic from this morning's bath time 😊 You can really see the positive changes along the four outer scutes on each side and the rump scutes.

 

[Tom]

Super duper cool. Thanks for the update.