My wilma

[philipgreece]

Shell rot is a bacterial infestation and usually looks much worse. Since this "chip" haven't got worse in a year, I doubt it's a shell rot. And it happens really rare among greeks, russians and other temperate species of tortoises.

Shell fungus is a more common thing (if you have seen a brie cheese - that's how damaged areas look). However, it's a rare thing among temperate species. Redfooted and other tropical species are more prone to it due to high humidity requirements. If shell fungus is not treated it can pave the way to a shell rot.

These are two different diseases and require different treatment: antibacterial cremes and sometimes antibiotics injections for a shell rot and antifungial creme for a shell fungus.

--
On brumation:
Here is comprehensive information on brumation: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/toms-brumation-thread.201823/#post-2033423
If you are not going to brumate her - just keep her warm (above 70F) and leave ambient lights for 14 hours a day (not UVB, but basking and auxillary lightning).
If you want to brumate - you need to get a fridge, lower temperatures, several weeks of intensive soakings and fastening.

All the details are in the linked thread.

Keeping her awake in the winter doesn't harm. And perhaps is a best choice for sick tortoises. I might have got it wrong, but did you drop her? In that case I would opt to keep her awake.

Mmmm I keep the lamps on 9 hours! I see! She eats normally and poop and pees healthy! My male wakes up and acts perfect! OK so more heat lamps! Thank you!

 

[wellington]

Thank you! Please can you give me an advice because I don't know how brumation works! I turn the lamps on every day! Should I leave her wake up on her own? I have water for her and food everyday!

I don't brumate so I can't tell you the exact way to do it.
However, I feel your tort is already past the point of being able to brumate unless it's not time where you are yet.
@Tom can help further.

 

[wellington]

Read this link
Thread 'Tom's Brumation Thread' https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/toms-brumation-thread.201823/

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Mmmm I keep the lamps on 9 hours! I see! She eats normally and poop and pees healthy! My male wakes up and acts perfect! OK so more heat lamps! Thank you!

I didn't mean exactly "more heat lamps". However it's one the points. Lightning/heating setup is like this:
1. Basking lamps (like incandescent) - run 14 hours a day.
2. Ambient light (like a simple LED strip with "cold day light") - run 14 hours a day.
3. UVB lamp (T5 tube) - runs 4-6 hours a day around noon.
4. Ceramic heat emitter (CHE) - provides ambient heat day and night, hooked on a thermostat.

If your tortoises don't seem to slowdown, refusing food and sleeping more then you can leave temperatures and lights as it is now. 14 hours regime is to keep awake those torts who wants to brumate. Probably, as Wellington mentioned, your tortoises are past the "decision point" for brumation, but keep an eye on their behavior.

And just to be sure: male and female are housed separately, right?

 

[philipgreece]

I didn't mean exactly "more heat lamps". However it's one the points. Lightning/heating setup is like this:
1. Basking lamps (like incandescent) - run 14 hours a day.
2. Ambient light (like a simple LED strip with "cold day light") - run 14 hours a day.
3. UVB lamp (T5 tube) - runs 4-6 hours a day around noon.
4. Ceramic heat emitter (CHE) - provides ambient heat day and night, hooked on a thermostat.

If your tortoises don't seem to slowdown, refusing food and sleeping more then you can leave temperatures and lights as it is now. 14 hours regime is to keep awake those torts who wants to brumate. Probably, as Wellington mentioned, your tortoises are past the "decision point" for brumation, but keep an eye on their behavior.

And just to be sure: male and female are housed separately, right?

Yes I have them separately! My female always slows down in winter! In summer is more active even from my male!