How do I stop my tortoise from being in "hibernation mode"?

[SupportingThor]

I just got Thor about 13 days ago, when I first got him he wasn't very active (but he was eating and doing a little bit of walking around?)and I thought it was because he was adjusting to him new home or he wasn't getting enough heat. But for the passed 2 days Thor has been sleeping ALOT! and I thought it was definitely time to up the wattage of his heat because usually (before I got the new bulb) the temperature in his habitat usually only 80 degrees. But now since I upped the Wattage from 60W to 150W the temperature in his habitat is 120 degrees (on warm side) and about 60-75 degrees on the cool side)which I thought since his habitat is warmer he would be WAY more active and happy. But I was WRONG. All he wants to do is sleep ALL THE TIME, he barely moves, when I do move him he it immediately goes to sleep, when he does move on his own he only moves to eat and sometimes he even falls asleep while eating! I really think he wants to hibernate I don't think anything is wrong with him because he is eating, I spray him twice a day with water for hydration, I have a UVB bulb for him, two days ago I actually soaked him for 10 mins in the bath. Maybe I'm overreacting but I am a new tortoise owner and I don't wanna sweep anything under the rug that may be a warning sign that Thor may be sick.

 

[wellington]

It's too hot. The 120 should only be 100 for basking. He may be hiding cuz of this. Raise the bulb fixture so it reaches 100 under it or return the bulb and get only 100 watts.
On a second note. My Russians has 100 basking 80 most areas of his enclosure and then around 75 on a cooler side. He still hides away a lot. Not eating much either. About every 3-4 days I dig him up from under the leafs, set him in his water or his food an I let him be. Some days, like today, he was out on his own. I stop provide fresh food and water every day.

 

[SupportingThor]

It's too hot. The 120 should only be 100 for basking. He may be hiding cuz of this. Raise the bulb fixture so it reaches 100 under it or return the bulb and get only 100 watts.
On a second note. My Russians has 100 basking 80 most areas of his enclosure and then around 75 on a cooler side. He still hides away a lot. Not eating much either. About every 3-4 days I dig him up from under the leafs, set him in his water or his food an I let him be. Some days, like today, he was out on his own. I stop provide fresh food and water every day.

But the crazy thing about it is I think he likes the heat because he stay under the heat. I will be returning the bulb tomorrow, I thought I would be able to today but things didn't work out. So this is usual behavior for Russian tortoise in the winter/ for new Russian tortoises?

 

[wellington]

Well, it's usual for mine and I have seen a lot of people say the same thing about theirs. So yes, I would say pretty usual. As long as everything heat, UVB, etc, etc, is right, then I wouldn't worry.

 

[mark1]

along with warmth , i'd say light , especially the blue end of the spectrum , but not just the blue end , as full of a spectrum as you can ..... and bright , and lots of it ........ humidity wouldn't hurt either

 

[Oogway the russian tort]

I just let my tort hibernate in his enclosure there's nothing to bad about them hibernating but yes that is usual behavior even if u up the heat or anything he will stay inactive till hibernating seasons over its a natural process

 

[Markw84]

If you don't want a tortoise to hibernate you need to make it feel like it is summer. For a tortoise from an area where they hibernate, that means summer is 15 hours a day of light, 9 hours dark. As Mark mentions above - light means UVA. The triggers for chelonians hibernation / brumation is #1- photoperiod which is acutely UVA sensitive. #2- heat On the turtle forums one of the most common questions in fall and winter is almost identical to yours they know all the conditions in the tank are the same - same water temp, same food offered, etc etc. the difference is the very acute circadian rhythm that is tied closely to UVA. Chelonians have a fourth cone in their eye that allows them to see uVA light in the spectrum invisible to humans. Most people often do not have adequate UVA/B lights to begin with in the enclosures, but sunlight from the windows in summer is dramatically different than in winter. Although UVB and a lot of UVA is filtered by windows, the much fuller spectrum of summer height sun, is adequate to stimulate a more normal behavior. In winter in most areas I see the most of these questions from, the outdoor daylight is perhaps 8 hours and even midday the spectrum is greatly reduced by the lower sun. Most experienced keeper will tell you their turtles / tortoises will want to hibernate as days shorten despite a year with unusual warm fall weather and high temperatures.

So what do I suggest? Again as Mark suggests above, bright full spectrum light that includes good UVA. Check your UVA / B light to be sure it is still producing UV. Put the lights on a 14-15 hour on 9-10 hour off cycle. Ensure your temps are correct for your species for proper metabolism.

 

[Yvonne G]

I just let my tort hibernate in his enclosure there's nothing to bad about them hibernating but yes that is usual behavior even if u up the heat or anything he will stay inactive till hibernating seasons over its a natural process

We advise people with new tortoises to keep the tortoise awake the first winter. This way they can get to know the tortoise and make sure he's healthy enough to hibernate the following winter.

 

[Yvonne G]

This doesn't sound like a hibernation problem to me because they say the tortoise eats. A tortoise that wants to hibernate won't eat. I think the main problem is lighting and temperature.

 

[SupportingThor]

This doesn't sound like a hibernation problem to me because they say the tortoise eats. A tortoise that wants to hibernate won't eat. I think the main problem is lighting and temperature.

***Well,his eating is getting less and less each day. Like today he only ate like three bites of kale

 

[Tom]

What type of UV bulb are you using?

Sounds like the basking area is too hot and the rest of the enclosure is too cold. You might need a CHE or another basking bulb to add some heat and light to the rest of the enclosure.

How long are your lights on daily? Should be 13-14 to keep them up.

As Mark and Mark suggested, more light might help too.

 

[Yvonne G]

***Well,his eating is getting less and less each day. Like today he only ate like three bites of kale

Yes, but a tortoise that wants to hibernate stops eating all together in order to clean out his digestive tract. They do this instinctively. No food at all.

 

[JoesMum]

It's too hot. The 120 should only be 100 for basking. He may be hiding cuz of this. Raise the bulb fixture so it reaches 100 under it or return the bulb and get only 100 watts.
On a second note. My Russians has 100 basking 80 most areas of his enclosure and then around 75 on a cooler side. He still hides away a lot. Not eating much either. About every 3-4 days I dig him up from under the leafs, set him in his water or his food an I let him be. Some days, like today, he was out on his own. I stop provide fresh food and water every day.

I agree that 120 is way too hot.

A tortoise may aestivate when temperatures are too hot. It's sort of a summer hibernation.

There is a serious risk of dehydration when temperatures are too warm. You need to get the basking down to 95-100F and the warm side not above 85F