Help with heating

BeauBen

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I have two 8 month old leopard tortoises and they’re perfectly healthy and eating really well I just wanted a second opinion on whether to turn off the heat bulb at night or to get a ceramic heater as currently I have it on 24/7 with an ambient temp of 26-28 degrees, basking spot of 32-35 and a cool side of 25 but my worry was that I’m interrupting their Circannual Rhythms by having the heat lamp light on 24/7. I mean I have a cork bark hide for them to go in but they barely use it and just sleep by the succulents or even near the heat lamp and they sleep like logs and don’t seem to mind but since they’re so young I’m worried this will have an affect on them. I could even get a hide to close off at night and try get them to use it at night but I’m not sure so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated :) * the UV light in the photo is only on so you can see where they are
 

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wellington

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Yes they need it dark at night.
They also need to not be kept in pairs.
They also need it never below 80F day and night and a basking spot of 95-100F.
 

BeauBen

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Yes they need it dark at night.
They also need to not be kept in pairs.
They also need it never below 80F day and night and a basking spot of 95-100F
I’ve never experienced any problems with them in pairs or even groups since I’ve worked at zoos and we’ve kept them together and even my two have been together since birth and have no issues but thanks for your input
 

wellington

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Do they follow each other?
Does one get on the food?
Either one block the entrance to a hide?
Do they sleep in the same corner?
All signs.
It's not if it will happen but when. There are many many threads on here about why keeping tortoises in pairs don't work. Groups can work.
Btw, most zoos don't keep tortoises properly either.
 

BeauBen

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They’re perfectly happy together and not once shown any signs of aggression or dominance. As I said they have been together since hatchlings and we keep a close eye on them 24/7. And the zoo I work at works closely with animal conservation not these zoos that keep animals in small spaces with no room to move and they know exactly how to keep their tortoises as we have many. I was only wondering about a light as I couldn’t get a concise answer on google :)
 

Levi the Leopard

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Thank you do you have it on a dimmer?
not on a dimmer. on a thermostat.

I like to use the same set up as Yvonne. The CHE is plugged into the thermostat. The thermostat is set to the desired temp (80degrees F) and the probe is placed inside the enclosure. Usually in the far corner. Then, the thermostat will click ON to warm it up and OFF once the desired temp is reached. It will regulate itself ON/OFF as needed 24/7 and you'll never have to worry about night temps.

I use this method with snakes and lizards, too.
 

BeauBen

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not on a dimmer. on a thermostat.

I like to use the same set up as Yvonne. The CHE is plugged into the thermostat. The thermostat is set to the desired temp (80degrees F) and the probe is placed inside the enclosure. Usually in the far corner. Then, the thermostat will click ON to warm it up and OFF once the desired temp is reached. It will regulate itself ON/OFF as needed 24/7 and you'll never have to worry about night temps.

I use this method with snakes and lizards, too.
Yeah I have my current bulb plugged into a Hibistat thermostat dimmer which basically does the same thing just slowly dims the light instead of instantly shutting it off. But thank you I’ll give that bulb a try
 

Tom

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Yeah I have my current bulb plugged into a Hibistat thermostat dimmer which basically does the same thing just slowly dims the light instead of instantly shutting it off. But thank you I’ll give that bulb a try
You have gotten the wrong info and seem determined to follow it. Please let us help for the sake of your tortoises.

Keeping them in a pair IS a problem, you just don't recognize the signs, and most zoo keeper types don't either.

The enclosure needs to be dark at night, but still warm. The basking bulb should not be on a thermostat or a dimmer. You don't want the "sun" dimming or shutting off all day. The indoor "sun" should come on in the morning and stay on all day. Ambient temps are maintained through CHEs or RHPs set on thermostats. Either of these devices do not generate light, yet still provide the right kind of heat.

It appears you have the right type of substrate, but the water bowl is a flipping and drowning hazard and need to be replaced with something safe ASAP.

Please take a few minutes and read through this. We only want to help and you are making several common mistakes. Its clear that you like and respect your zoo, but zoos, pet shops, FB and most other sources have it all wrong, and its been that way for decades. The info you are receiving here is based on over a decade of experimentation, observation, and study from some of the top tortoise keepers in the world. This info has not made it to the rest of the world as of yet, but we are trying.

 

BeauBen

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You have gotten the wrong info and seem determined to follow it. Please let us help for the sake of your tortoises.

Keeping them in a pair IS a problem, you just don't recognize the signs, and most zoo keeper types don't either.

The enclosure needs to be dark at night, but still warm. The basking bulb should not be on a thermostat or a dimmer. You don't want the "sun" dimming or shutting off all day. The indoor "sun" should come on in the morning and stay on all day. Ambient temps are maintained through CHEs or RHPs set on thermostats. Either of these devices do not generate light, yet still provide the right kind of heat.

It appears you have the right type of substrate, but the water bowl is a flipping and drowning hazard and need to be replaced with something safe ASAP.

Please take a few minutes and read through this. We only want to help and you are making several common mistakes. Its clear that you like and respect your zoo, but zoos, pet shops, FB and most other sources have it all wrong, and its been that way for decades. The info you are receiving here is based on over a decade of experimentation, observation, and study from some of the top tortoise keepers in the world. This info has not made it to the rest of the world as of yet, but we are trying.

I'm going to switch the light bulb to a CHE bulb because it won't produce any light and the only thing that is dimming is the heat bulb, not the UV light, so that is okay as it is simply heat and not the "sun." The water bowl is not a flipping hazard because it is quite shallow and only deep enough for them to cool themselves in, which they don't mind doing. I have lots of vivariums to separate them if there are any indications that they are territorial or aggressive against one another so you do not need to worry.

I'm not trying to be funny, but the zoo keepers I've worked with have over 30 years of experience with reptiles and amphibians and as a result are highly knowledgeable about territorial behaviour and signals of hostility. Thanks for your insight on everything you said, but I only wanted a second opinion on the light bulb I should use so that it isn't bright in there at night. many thanks :)
 

Lyn W

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Hi and welcome,
Are you at the recently closed Bristol Zoo pending it's move? I visited a few times.
There have been a lot of changes in tortoise care in the last 30 years so make the most of the up to date care information offered here from keepers with decades of experience many of whom have been involved in research concerning tortoise welfare.
You may find this useful, it has helped my leopard thrive
 

BeauBen

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Hi and welcome,
Are you at the recently closed Bristol Zoo pending it's move? I visited a few times.
There have been a lot of changes in tortoise care in the last 30 years so make the most of the up to date care information offered here from keepers with decades of experience many of whom have been involved in research concerning tortoise welfare.
You may find this useful, it has helped my leopard thrive
I do know many reptile keepers there but no I’m currently at Colchester zoo working closely with all different kinds of reptiles and fish but thank you :)
 

Tom

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I'm going to switch the light bulb to a CHE bulb because it won't produce any light and the only thing that is dimming is the heat bulb, not the UV light, so that is okay as it is simply heat and not the "sun." The water bowl is not a flipping hazard because it is quite shallow and only deep enough for them to cool themselves in, which they don't mind doing. I have lots of vivariums to separate them if there are any indications that they are territorial or aggressive against one another so you do not need to worry.

I'm not trying to be funny, but the zoo keepers I've worked with have over 30 years of experience with reptiles and amphibians and as a result are highly knowledgeable about territorial behaviour and signals of hostility. Thanks for your insight on everything you said, but I only wanted a second opinion on the light bulb I should use so that it isn't bright in there at night. many thanks :)
Your tortoise and you will benefit if you'll just read the thread. The people you work with might learn a thing or two as well. I've been involved with the zoo community in many forms since the mid 90s, and I'm well aware of what they do and don't know, not only with tortoises, but with other animals too. I know that you have no idea who you are talking to on the other side of the world, but exotic animals have been my career since the mid 80s in one way or another. I say again, you are making some mistakes, and you will learn the hard way in time, as we all have. I'm hoping to save you some oncoming trouble.
 

BeauBen

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I appreciate your help and respect what you might well know and see that you’re very dedicated to caring for animals as am I, as I’ve said I’m going to be making a couple changes here and there with the temperatures and heating but regarding the water bowl I know it is suitable as it is very shallow. If I may ask, what live plants would you suggest for planting in with them amongst what I’ve already got?
 

Tom

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I appreciate your help and respect what you might well know and see that you’re very dedicated to caring for animals as am I, as I’ve said I’m going to be making a couple changes here and there with the temperatures and heating but regarding the water bowl I know it is suitable as it is very shallow. If I may ask, what live plants would you suggest for planting in with them amongst what I’ve already got?
Pothos and spider plants work well indoors and are non-toxic. I use pots for them, either hanging or semi-buried in the substrate.
 

BeauBen

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Pothos and spider plants work well indoors and are non-toxic. I use pots for them, either hanging or semi-buried in the substrate.
Okay thank you, what’s your thoughts on polka dot (hypoestes sp)
 

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