I will stop you right there. That is not a suitable enclosure for a redfoot. Redfoots need to be in closed chamber enclosure to maintain temperature and humidity in the mid 80's for both.My red foot is currently in this enclosure. I’m adding another one. What would be a better configuration for him 6x2 or 3x4? Thanks.
I currently have this set up and made it closed chamber. Temps around 84 and humidity at 70% all the time.I will stop you right there. That is not a suitable enclosure for a redfoot. Redfoots need to be in closed chamber enclosure to maintain temperature and humidity in the mid 80's for both.
The 2nd thing is we need to know size of redfoot you have.
Hatchlings are fine in a 4x2x2. 2 years old give or take size, need 6-8' long enclosure and adults need a minimum of a 10'x10' room.
I will stop you right there. That is not a suitable enclosure for a redfoot. Redfoots need to be in closed chamber enclosure to maintain temperature and humidity in the mid 80's for both.
The 2nd thing is we need to know size of redfoot you have.
Hatchlings are fine in a 4x2x2. 2 years old give or take size, need 6-8' long enclosure and adults need a minimum of a 10'x10' room.
If it's a temporary option, then I would go with 6x2, maybe L shaped. It would be easier to clean, to "break the line of sight" and to make lights and temperature gradients.My red foot is currently in this enclosure. I’m adding another one. What would be a better configuration for him 6x2 or 3x4? Thanks.
Thank you. I’m assuming he will require high humidity his entire life correct?A minimum of 6x2 or 3' wide would work for awhile.
Thank you. He like then hay in the hide away to sleep on. I’ll remove the moss. I was thinking L shaped, just not sure how to connect them yet.If it's a temporary option, then I would go with 6x2, maybe L shaped. It would be easier to clean, to "break the line of sight" and to make lights and temperature gradients.
If it's a hay or moss on the substrate - consider removing it. Hay molds easily and moss when eaten causes impactions (sometimes lethal).
Also, after upgrading, you may add a shallow terracotta saucer so he can soak himself and drink.
The gauge hygrometers and termometers aren't very accurate, you may get a digital one from a hardware store to get more precise readings.
For a basking lamp you might need a dimmer switch to adjust basking zone temperature (it should not be too hot - just around 86-86F).
In the summer Time he can be outside a little bit on the nicer days Maryland is pretty humid in the summer. But yes high humidity for most of his life, Adults can handle more swings in humidity down to the 70's. Bit the humidity now will slow down that pyramiding, Redfoots also don't require a basking area and 90° is to hot.Thank you. He like then hay in the hide away to sleep on. I’ll remove the moss. I was thinking L shaped, just not sure how to connect them yet.
I don’t rely on the gauge, I have a temp and humidity thermostat that keeps everything in check.
That basking light is on a dimmer and get around 90ish
Thanks. I got him about 3 weeks ago. He was in a tank without humidity so I was surprised the pyramiding was not worse. I’ve had with temp at 84 and humidity 70-75% and he seems happy. I’ll watch the pyramiding.In the summer Time he can be outside a little bit on the nicer days Maryland is pretty humid in the summer. But yes high humidity for most of his life, Adults can handle more swings in humidity down to the 70's. Bit the humidity now will slow down that pyramiding, Redfoots also don't require a basking area and 90° is to hot.
Yes. They come from tropical rainforests and high humidity is essential. In some habitats, like Chaco forest, where there are dry seasons they actively reuse abandoned animal burrows to stay cool and humid.Thank you. I’m assuming he will require high humidity his entire life correct?