Cherryhead won't eat

chrisisme

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I bought a cb baby last week. I received it Tuesday, shipped from Florida to NC. I've done a ton of research and I have it in ideal living conditions. Basking at 95 temp at 82 and humidity at 80. Orchid bark substrate with coconut soil substrate. I have a small pool of water(dechlorinated) which I put him in daily and change daily. I have UVA and UVB bulbs also. I have a piece of slate that I put his food on. I clean it daily. Since I've had him, I've seen him eat 1 tiny piece of strawberry and bite on a turnip green but not eat it. I change his combination of food daily to see what his favorites are but he still won't eat. What else can I do? I've read that they are sensitive to change and that they won't eat for a few days but a week? He's about 3-4" long and somewhat active. He does like to sit under his basking bulb for long periods Without moving. No bubbles around nostrils and no watery eyes that I can tell. Any help would be great!
 

Yvonne G

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The most common reason for a baby tortoise to not eat is that he isn't warm enough. In your case, the baby is still trying to come to grips with the fact that he's in a new place and he's scared.

If you're using a coil-shaped bulb, turn it off immediately and don't use it. Those bulbs cause eye problems.

Have you seen Tortoise Library ? There's a very good section in there on RF tortoises.
 

chrisisme

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I'm using a ceramic heater bulb, a halogen uvb that runs the full length of the tank(30") a blue uva incandescent and a red basking bulb. How long will he go without eating before I need to seek medical help? I've seen some posts that say they can go up to a month but i assume that is with adults.
 

allegraf

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Do you know when he hatched? I would continue feeding him and monitor if he is eating. Don't pick him up except to put him on the food or for a soak, let him get some serious privacy to settle in. In a baby, it is common for them to be very shy and stress out easily. Keep the activity around the enclosure to a minimum. He should have been eating as soon as he was delivered or shortly thereafter. When they are very young, they are very sensitive to their environment and can decline quickly. Keep us posted on the little one.
 

chrisisme

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Not sure of hatch date but I'll take your advice and leave him alone for a couple days. I haven't been handling him much more than to place him in water or in front of food with the exception of last night. He let me pet his head without drawing it in. On a good note, he does drink but I've only seen him defecate once And it was on the watery side.
 

chrisisme

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One eye looks like it may have some crust on it. The other looks clean but he doesn't seem to want to open them, which is nothing new. Shell looks fine. I'm stumped. I know I am new the reptile world but, on paper, conditions are ideal.
 

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newCH

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Hey there,
I have a little tort like yours. I got Sheldon in November. He is under 3 inches & 2.4 ozs.
A couple things you might want to try:
Maybe try feeding him spring mix. That might be what your tort is
used to eating. Not all strawberries are sweet & I dont always get an eager response when strawberries are given.
That light that is shining from the back of the tank, maybe adjust the angle.
My little guy literally ate in the car on the way home. But he did slow down a bit when I got him home. In addition to the dual lights like you have, I added a under tank heater, only it is mounted on the side.
That raised the temp about 5 degrees. At night he is a low of 73 degrees and during the day a high of 84 degrees.
When they are little, they walk a bit, sleep a bit. Sheldon has his favorite corner he has his little dug out area.
I havent had any eye issues with mine, but maybe adjust the sideways light might help. Also even some fake plants taped to the inside of the glass might make him feel a little more comfortable to hide around.
 

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Yvonne G

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I'm using a ceramic heater bulb, a halogen uvb that runs the full length of the tank(30") a blue uva incandescent and a red basking bulb. How long will he go without eating before I need to seek medical help? I've seen some posts that say they can go up to a month but i assume that is with adults.

It sounds like you have way too much light on that poor tortoise. You can get rid of the red and blue bulbs and only use the CHE and the UVB bulbs. Do you have lots of plants in the habitat so he has some shade when he comes out of his hiding place?
 

chrisisme

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Just an update,as soon as I posted the pics on the thread he started mowing down the strawberries and turnip greens I had put on his slate. Not crazy about the mango though. I'm hoping he has just been shy and is adjusting now. I've given him spring mix, strawberries, bluberries, raspberries, grapes, turnip greens, mustard greens, bell peppers and mushrooms. So far, I've only seen him eat strawberries and now turnip greens. I'm trying to vary his diet more and would like to find some of the more uncommon items they like to eat Such as grape leaves, etc. Any suggestions on where to find their favorite foods would be appreciated.
 

naturalman91

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i agree with Yvonne it seems like to much light get rid of the colored bulbs redfoots/cherry heads aren't fond of harsh bright lights and tortoises can see colors and the red may keep him up at night i'd use CHE's for heat
 

Yvonne G

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I looked at the pictures AFTER I made my previous post. Too much light on that poor little baby, and even the hiding place is pointed up towards the light, so he can't even get away from it when he hides. Put some plants in there to give him some shade, and get rid of the blue and red lights, only using the CHE and the UVB lights. Take the temperature reading on the floor, not on the wall above the floor like your gauges are.
 

chrisisme

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It sounds like you have way too much light on that poor tortoise. You can get rid of the red and blue bulbs and only use the CHE and the UVB bulbs. Do you have lots of plants in the habitat so he has some shade when he comes out of his hiding place?
He has a hide that he uses but he stays out under the basking bulb quite a bit. Using the red light along with the ceramic heater and uva bulb is the only way I've been able to keep a consistent temperature in the tank. What are some other methods to keep the tank a constant 82?
 

chrisisme

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I looked at the pictures AFTER I made my previous post. Too much light on that poor little baby, and even the hiding place is pointed up towards the light, so he can't even get away from it when he hides. Put some plants in there to give him some shade, and get rid of the blue and red lights, only using the CHE and the UVB lights. Take the temperature reading on the floor, not on the wall above the floor like your gauges are.
 

chrisisme

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Gauges are on the floor. They sit right on the substrate. The thermostat for the heater is also on the substrate.
 

Yvonne G

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How high is the CHE. You may have to lower it a bit. If you put your hand above the CHE you can feel the warmth rising. It may not be reaching the floor.
 

chrisisme

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How high is the CHE. You may have to lower it a bit. If you put your hand above the CHE you can feel the warmth rising. It may not be reaching the floor.
CHE is 10 inches from the floor. It's 100w. But from what I understand, they don't heat the air, only what is directly below it so what other heating options do I have? Ive also read that heat rocks aren't effective.
 

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