Runny Nose

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TortieGal

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I figured out why my little guy is doing a head jerk he's trying to breath he has a runny nose. when it started to get pretty cold here I moved him out to the living room where its warmer. And at first I was using one 75W bulb for heat now I'm using two 75w bulbs both at the same end so he has a warm end and a cooler end. Only on 75w bulb is on at night. I put one of those temp readers that I got at wal mart and put the wire right under his lights on the ground and its been about 15 min its reading 101.8 so it has to be warm enough. Maybe I didn't start the two light bulbs soon enough? This is the second time he has been sick. I feel like a bad Mom. Do you think it's because I still have him in a 55 gal tank. I have been watching the stores for the big xmass tree bins, there still not out yet. My husband thinks I should rehome him to someone that can keep him healthy. I really don't want to. What is the main cause for runny nose? Thanks for any help.
 

Homer

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I think it is good thing that you worry about doing your best for your tort. It shows you really care and are taking the time to learn. I am a new tort owner myself and new to the forum. So my opinion should not be taken as gospel. But here goes......

A runny nose might indicate the beginning of an upper respiratory infection. I would not be comfortable just waiting it out to see if it gets better. I would rather go to a vet. My vet charged $60 for an extended physical examination which included stool inspection. I was asked to collect stool samples and keep them refrigerated.

The vet might suggest an antibiotic shot. And a series of shots if your little tort does not get better.

A vet visit would give me the peice of mind that I was doing everything that I could. From my research, it seems that getting ahead of the curve with medical treatment is far better than trying to play catch up once you have multiple symptoms.

Just thoughts from a beginner, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. :p And your doing fine, your tort is lucky to have you as a mom.

Brian
 

Yvonne G

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You asked what was the MAIN cause of a runny nose. The MAIN cause is stress. Of course, there are other causes, but stress is usually the cause of a bubbly or runny nose in tortoises. If you don't think its just stress (which goes away on its own with no intervention from you accept to relieve the stressful situation), then it could also be his substrate (too dry), or the beginnings of a respiratory infection. In my experience, the vet will assume its a respiratory infection, even when it isn't. If you decide to go to the vet, ask for a smear of the nasal discharge to be sure it is an infection.

If I have a tortoise with bubbles, I usually tweak my husbandry and up the temperature, hoping it goes away by itself. Nine times out of 10, it does.

Don't let your husband guilt you into making a decision about your tortoise that is going to break your heart. You are NOT a bad tort mama. You are doing your best.

Yvonne
 

TortieGal

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I had some antibiotic left from his vet when he was sick before and it worked well last time he was sick so I went ahead and started him on that, the vet is not in till tomorrow and I didn't want to just wait. I'm wondering if being in a tank is stressful I did cover the back part with a dessert scene and the sides with some green paper. I do have a under the bed tub but the sides are not very tall and I am worried the light would be to close and to hot for him. I also thought the tank would be keeping him warmer. I can reach right in and put some food in front of him and he starts eating it right away doesn't seemed to be to scared of me. If you think I should move him to the under the bed tub I'll give it a try. I keep part of his substrate moist and part dry, he hangs out in the dry part. I also give him soaks every other day I don't force him to stay in the water but he usually hangs out in it for awhile. On a good note he is up and eating just fine, has not lost his appatite at all.
 

Homer

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I am sure one of the old timers will give you very specific answers and recommendations.

But, I totally get your anguish as a first time tort dad. It is now, it is fresh. You have put more effort into your tort than a vast majority of first time owners.

Hang in there,

Brian
 
M

Maggie Cummings

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Sometimes it's hard for us strangers to decipher exactly what others on line are trying to communicate so maybe I am not understand just what you mean...Does he have a basking spot that is 95 to 100 degrees? Maybe 90 but not below that. The cold end shouldn't go below 70 IMHO. I think your heat is not consistent enough and he gets cold. And it sounds like you are leaving a light on at night...is it a bright light like what you can read under? He needs to be in the dark at night to sleep, just like you. I keep a black light in all of my indoor habitats 24/7. Then the basking/UVB light is on for 12 hours and then it's dark in his tank. Others say that you shouldn't keep a tortoise in an aquarium...but if it's a small tort and a big tank I think that would work. I have raised several tortoises in aquariums.
Up his basking spot some and I bet his nose clears up...the bubbles are caused by the stress of moving or a dry substrate...there are many reasons for a bubbly nose not just a URTI
 

TortieGal

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He still comes out and walks around and munches on stuff, stuffy nose and all. Maybe I stress him out by watching him two much. Thanks for making me feel better. He is so precious

His basking spot is 101.8 and the cool end is 73.9 The light I have on at night is a red night time light. I will keep his subsrate more moist all over instead of giving him dry and wet area. I think I should run the antibiotic to be on the safe side don't you? Thanks
 

tortoisenerd

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Why did you have antibiotic left over from last time? Did you finish all the prescribed doses? I would not recommend starting a tort on an antibiotic without going to a vet. You don't know what the tort has or doesn't have this time, and if the antibiotic is appropriate or necessary. I think you should take the tortoise to a good vet which specializes in tortoises, and get their opinion in the tort's current health and your husbandry. Get a fecal test done for the tort now, in a few , and at least yearly after that (the life cycles of some parasites may not get picked up now, but they would later).I recommend an accurate laser thermometer so you can instantly know the temperature in every part of the enclosure (the PE1 is $25). What is your gradient? 102 degrees is a tad over what I would want as a maximum temperature. Do you have areas in the high 70s through the 90s as well? Hides in different temperatures? What are you doing for UVB? Daily calcium? Diet?

You need stands to be able to adjust the heights of bulbs as the room temperature changes, and as you may need to tweak the temperatures. As long as the bin does not have too short of sides as to allow the tort to climb out (the tort on its hind legs on any cage furnishings near a wall should not be able to reach its arms to the top), it should be fine. You say he hangs out in the dry part--what are the temperature differences if any? Any difference in hides between the two areas? What type of substrate? Can you provide photos of the tort and enclosure?

Great to hear the little one is eating. Best wishes for a speedy recovery.
 

TortieGal

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maggie3fan said:
Do you keep the bright lights on at night?

No Bright lights at night only his 75w red night time light.

tortoisenerd said:
Why did you have antibiotic left over from last time? Did you finish all the prescribed doses? I would not recommend starting a tort on an antibiotic without going to a vet. You don't know what the tort has or doesn't have this time, and if the antibiotic is appropriate or necessary. I think you should take the tortoise to a good vet which specializes in tortoises, and get their opinion in the tort's current health and your husbandry. Get a fecal test done for the tort now, in a few , and at least yearly after that (the life cycles of some parasites may not get picked up now, but they would later).I recommend an accurate laser thermometer so you can instantly know the temperature in every part of the enclosure (the PE1 is $25). What is your gradient? 102 degrees is a tad over what I would want as a maximum temperature. Do you have areas in the high 70s through the 90s as well? Hides in different temperatures? What are you doing for UVB? Daily calcium? Diet?

You need stands to be able to adjust the heights of bulbs as the room temperature changes, and as you may need to tweak the temperatures. As long as the bin does not have too short of sides as to allow the tort to climb out (the tort on its hind legs on any cage furnishings near a wall should not be able to reach its arms to the top), it should be fine. You say he hangs out in the dry part--what are the temperature differences if any? Any difference in hides between the two areas? What type of substrate? Can you provide photos of the tort and enclosure?

Great to hear the little one is eating. Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

I will call his vet in the morning. I did finish what he needed last time, she just gave me plenty. His temp reader is a good one and you can put the end of the wire anywhere in the incloser to tell the different temps. I was putting the cal with 3D powder on his food a couple times a week now I'm putting it on everyday. I will post some pic's of him and his house if I can figure out how to get them on here. Thanks
 

dmmj

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I have taken several torts to the vets over the years for various reasons and when I get an antibiotic from them they always state to use up the entire med even if he/she os looking/feeling better.
 

TortieGal

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dmmj said:
I have taken several torts to the vets over the years for various reasons and when I get an antibiotic from them they always state to use up the entire med even if he/she os looking/feeling better.

No I was only to use it 10 days.
 
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