RIO'S MOM
Member
NEW owner here. Hubbs is building my tortoise table. I bought UVB and infra red bulbs. Need to get good lighting fixture recommendation for enclosed shelter. Thoughts? ALL ARE WELCOME !
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Recommend lighting fixture closed 4'×6' shelter
- Thread starter RIO'S MOM
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RIO'S MOM
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That shelter is on end, lays flat when finished.
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Hi
Firstly infrared bulbs aren't recommended for torts.
Torts have really good colour vision and associate red foods with sweet and yummy. Unfortunately they don't always apply intelligence to red things and start eating decor or substrate coloured red by the lamp.
They should in any case case have complete darkness at night. If extra heat is needed at night then use a Ceramic Heat Emitter with a thermostat.
Firstly infrared bulbs aren't recommended for torts.
Torts have really good colour vision and associate red foods with sweet and yummy. Unfortunately they don't always apply intelligence to red things and start eating decor or substrate coloured red by the lamp.
They should in any case case have complete darkness at night. If extra heat is needed at night then use a Ceramic Heat Emitter with a thermostat.
Here's a lighting summary:
Your tort needs:
1. A basking lamp
This must hang vertically, not at an angle. Basking is essential to raise your tortoise's core temperature so it can digest food.
2. UVB light
Read the instructions for the source to see how close to the substrate it must be. UVB is essential so your tort can process dietary calcium and have healthy bones and shell.
Both 1 and 2 are available from the sun for those able to live outside.
UVB does not pass through glass or perspex(plexiglass) - light must be direct to be effective not through a window. Mesh screening can also interfere with UVB.
3. A minimum overnight temperature (see the care sheet for your species) and complete darkness at night to sleep.
Notes
(a) A Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB) provides combined UVB and Basking. Alternatively you can use 2 bulbs: a tube UVB and a reflector bulb for basking (a household reflector - not low energy or halogen - from a hardware store will do the job; it's the wattage that counts)
(b) Ignore any references to UVA you may read - it's misleading marketing speak.
(c) Compact coil UVB harms tortoise eyes and must not be used.
(d) Basking and UVB should be on a timer so the light(s) are on for 12 hours a day. Temperature under the basking is regulated by its height above the substrate.
(e) Overnight, depending on your home, you may need additional heat. You get this from a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) which must be on a thermostat.
(f) Torts have outstanding colour vision and love red and purple food. Coloured heat lamps colour tank decor and torts don't always apply intelligence to what they eat, resulting them in eating tank decor. Coloured bulbs should not be used.
Measurements
There are 4 important temperatures that you must know for an indoor enclosure.
- Directly under the basking lamp
- Warm side
- Cool side
- Overnight Minimum
You will need digital thermometers for accuracy.
A temperature gun thermometer (inexpensive from Amazon) measures temperature accurately in specific places like directly under the basking lamp.
A min/max thermometer so you know the min/max temperatures in your home by day and night.
You should also get a good digital probe hygrometer to measure humidity.
Thermometers and hygrometer that stick to the side of the enclosure tend to be less accurate.
Your tort needs:
1. A basking lamp
This must hang vertically, not at an angle. Basking is essential to raise your tortoise's core temperature so it can digest food.
2. UVB light
Read the instructions for the source to see how close to the substrate it must be. UVB is essential so your tort can process dietary calcium and have healthy bones and shell.
Both 1 and 2 are available from the sun for those able to live outside.
UVB does not pass through glass or perspex(plexiglass) - light must be direct to be effective not through a window. Mesh screening can also interfere with UVB.
3. A minimum overnight temperature (see the care sheet for your species) and complete darkness at night to sleep.
Notes
(a) A Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB) provides combined UVB and Basking. Alternatively you can use 2 bulbs: a tube UVB and a reflector bulb for basking (a household reflector - not low energy or halogen - from a hardware store will do the job; it's the wattage that counts)
(b) Ignore any references to UVA you may read - it's misleading marketing speak.
(c) Compact coil UVB harms tortoise eyes and must not be used.
(d) Basking and UVB should be on a timer so the light(s) are on for 12 hours a day. Temperature under the basking is regulated by its height above the substrate.
(e) Overnight, depending on your home, you may need additional heat. You get this from a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) which must be on a thermostat.
(f) Torts have outstanding colour vision and love red and purple food. Coloured heat lamps colour tank decor and torts don't always apply intelligence to what they eat, resulting them in eating tank decor. Coloured bulbs should not be used.
Measurements
There are 4 important temperatures that you must know for an indoor enclosure.
- Directly under the basking lamp
- Warm side
- Cool side
- Overnight Minimum
You will need digital thermometers for accuracy.
A temperature gun thermometer (inexpensive from Amazon) measures temperature accurately in specific places like directly under the basking lamp.
A min/max thermometer so you know the min/max temperatures in your home by day and night.
You should also get a good digital probe hygrometer to measure humidity.
Thermometers and hygrometer that stick to the side of the enclosure tend to be less accurate.
- Joined
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- Location (City and/or State)
- South Eastern Florida (U.S.A.)/Rock Hill S.C.
Redfoot also don't like very bright lighting and don't need to be as warm as some other species. 80-88 is their comfort zone.
I'm assuming you know about heat and humidity parameters since you are designing a closed chamber.
I'm assuming you know about heat and humidity parameters since you are designing a closed chamber.
RIO'S MOM
Member
This looks rather easy and efficient to me. Thanks.
Before I return anything, I wonder, what do you think of this plan? I'm open to return items if my plan sucks. I already have to return infra red bulb.
I bought the 3 items below with timer and thermostat
I am planning to position these over a basking 'pool' of a clay flower pot dish with water. UVB will be on timer, 12 hrs in one socket, AND CHE on thermostat, in the other socket. The enclosure is about 33" deep. So, suspended from vent that allows ceramic and fixture base outside of enclosure, there is 23"clearance from floor to base of fixture. Rio is about 5-6 inches tall. HUBBY IS CURRENTLY PONDERING what material to use for the lamp fixture portal segment of the roof. Thoughts?
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RIO'S MOM
Member
FANTASTIC! THAT IS SOME endeavor to type all this out, thank you! A very informative summation. Excellent.
I posted a plan for light and heat above, please feel free to critique along with Zero Pilot. Nothing is beyond returning. In fact, I will be returning infrared bulb, already.
RIO'S MOM
Member
Here's the enclosure on its proper side, so far.
Still have to lay flooring and finish upper door. The lights will be in a fireproof area beside the upper door.... That's the plan. I got coco coir for substrate and a full second floor hutch for his hide. He loves the ramp. LOL. He's so funny. He can hide upper or lower.
My BIGGEST CONCERN IS THAT LIGHTING FIXTURE (pictured above) IN THE HUMIDITY. NEED feedback. Anybody used that suspended in humid environment ? AND, should CHE be in its own fixture, or can they share this one?
Still have to lay flooring and finish upper door. The lights will be in a fireproof area beside the upper door.... That's the plan. I got coco coir for substrate and a full second floor hutch for his hide. He loves the ramp. LOL. He's so funny. He can hide upper or lower.
My BIGGEST CONCERN IS THAT LIGHTING FIXTURE (pictured above) IN THE HUMIDITY. NEED feedback. Anybody used that suspended in humid environment ? AND, should CHE be in its own fixture, or can they share this one?
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For simplicity have the CHE in a separate fixture with its own timer
You don't want to be messing round switching bulbs over every day. And timers mean you don't have to be there to switch them on and off.
You don't want to be messing round switching bulbs over every day. And timers mean you don't have to be there to switch them on and off.
RIO'S MOM
Member
They have separate plugs, so one can be plugged in the timer and one in the thermostat. ... What do ya think?
Both on timers. The CHE needs both a thermostat and a timer :
Really you don't want to be having to turn things on and off manually every day.
Really you don't want to be having to turn things on and off manually every day.
Hi Rio. How are you going to stop the substrate falling out when you open the front door.
For heat and light all I have is a CHE on a thermostat and a 5.0 strip uvb on a 12hr timer. Nothing else. I don't have a basking light. I also put a shield under the CHE, so it can't directly dry out my torts carapace.
RIO'S MOM
Member
Good question !
We actually moved the door hinges to the side now. There is a few inches drop from door to floor, but after you asked this, I'm gonna pose this question to Hubbs. thanks.
What sort of shield do you use over CHE? that sounds good too.
Instead of moving door hinges, just fit a piece of wood across the bottom in the door opening.
I just made the shield out of aluminum.
This the shield I'm experimenting with, I made out of an old fish tank top. Uvb strip under that, so heat and light come from same place. Other end is cooler and darker.
RIO'S MOM
Member
We already moved the hinges. I couldn't bend in there to clean because it hit the floor at an angle.
Yes. We are discussing a shield. Hubbs is working on the loft ramp right now. So the CHE is fully enclosed? Or it's loosely covered?
Oh. New picture arrived while I am writing.
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RIO'S MOM
Member
What is that vent in upper right? Curious.
It's just what was built into the vivarium. There is 2. I've blocked them off because you lose humidity with them open. You don't need vents.
- Joined
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- Location (City and/or State)
- South Eastern Florida (U.S.A.)/Rock Hill S.C.
I'd deff. Move the cord ends, plugs and timer outside of the enclosure and place the lights inside.
Don't handle any wet or damp electrical connections.
Overall temperatures in the enclosure being maintained are more important than a basking area I.M.O.
I've never seen a Redfoot bask. I've had a warm side and an "almost as warm" side work out well for me.
Don't handle any wet or damp electrical connections.
Overall temperatures in the enclosure being maintained are more important than a basking area I.M.O.
I've never seen a Redfoot bask. I've had a warm side and an "almost as warm" side work out well for me.
