Help! Box turtle hatchling won't eat

[Nikki-]

I got a 3 toed box turtle hatchling 5 days ago and it won't eat I've tried box turtle pellets, night crawlers(chopped up), wax worms, meal worms, red worms, bananas, Blueberries, raspberries, romane lettuce, carrots, freezdried meal worms/crickets, and canned box turtle food. I keep its enclosure 75° - 84°F and high humidity the left side of the enclosure is just water and a little moss I have a uvb/uva light I keep on for about 12 hours a day.
All it does is burrow and hide but is active and explores the enclosure when I dig It out to eat it completely ignores the food and will walk right over it(the turtle is around 2 inches long) what could be wrong I don't want it to die!?

 

[ZenHerper]

Don't chop the worms. Leave them whole. I know they look too big, but turtles are built to react to movement of earthworms in the wild, and they are meant to struggle to subdue and eat them. It will not, at this age, eat any greenery, and very little (if any) fruit. Dried insects will be of no interest (and can be hard to digest). Red wigglers secrete a noxious slime and do not taste good.

With that size enclosure, I'd get a handful of nightcrawlers, release them into the habitat, and use a baby monitor or other device to spy on Baby remotely. Turtles have remarkable senses of sight and smell -- they know if you are hanging around and staring at them. Lots of animals eat turtles, and they hatch out coded to hide and avoid showing themselves or their natural behaviors out in the open until things prove to be 100% Safe.

Don't handle the wee one any more than is absolutely necessary (i.e. daily soaking and health check). Too much stimulation is stressful.

As long as your set up is Optimized, it's a waiting game. Live, whole nightcrawlers and privacy are your best bet.

 

[Yvonne G]

Good suggestions above!

I've had good luck getting them to eat by adding black worms (from the aquarium fish store) to the soaking water.

 

[Nikki-]

Good suggestions above!

I've had good luck getting them to eat by adding black worms (from the aquarium fish store) to the soaking water.

I'll try that! only I have a pet smart nearby do you think they would have them?

 

[Nikki-]

Don't chop the worms. Leave them whole. I know they look too big, but turtles are built to react to movement of earthworms in the wild, and they are meant to struggle to subdue and eat them. It will not, at this age, eat any greenery, and very little (if any) fruit. Dried insects will be of no interest (and can be hard to digest). Red wigglers secrete a noxious slime and do not taste good.

With that size enclosure, I'd get a handful of nightcrawlers, release them into the habitat, and use a baby monitor or other device to spy on Baby remotely. Turtles have remarkable senses of sight and smell -- they know if you are hanging around and staring at them. Lots of animals eat turtles, and they hatch out coded to hide and avoid showing themselves or their natural behaviors out in the open until things prove to be 100% Safe.

Don't handle the wee one any more than is absolutely necessary (i.e. daily soaking and health check). Too much stimulation is stressful.

As long as your set up is Optimized, it's a waiting game. Live, whole nightcrawlers and privacy are your best bet.

Ok thank you I will try that! I know lol those night crawlers look like giant snakes or serpents next to those baby turtles! I also try not to handle or hold it but once a day for soaking/trying to show it food. I also gave it a carrot juice soak today to se if that would help. How long can they go without eating? I'm not so sure how old it is since it was just sold listed as a hatchling?

 

[ZenHerper]

They can go for a bit on the egg yolk remnants.

It is less messy to feed in a separate container, but many Newly Moved turtles find it scary. Try feeding a large handful of nightcrawlers in the habitat just after a soak, when the metabolism. alertness, and circulation are at a Higher level. Watch remotely, or at least from a far distance. The worms will burrow away, but they will do no harm and will create a supply of wiggly food on-demand.

Carrot water will help supplement calories and some vital nutrients in the meantime.

Finding blackworms in person can be hit-or-miss (no one carries them where I live)...call local pet stores and ask before trekking around.

 

[jeff kushner]

Hey Nikki, listen to those guys, they got like 100 years of combined knowledge! When you get your little guy feeling better, take a look over in the Turtle/Box turtle section, there are some really good care sheets which will apply to your little guy and welcome!

 

[mark1]

try maggots from a bait shop ....... live and small is more normal ........

 

[TaylorTortoise]

I got a 3 toed box turtle hatchling 5 days ago and it won't eat I've tried box turtle pellets, night crawlers(chopped up), wax worms, meal worms, red worms, bananas, Blueberries, raspberries, romane lettuce, carrots, freezdried meal worms/crickets, and canned box turtle food. I keep its enclosure 75° - 84°F and high humidity the left side of the enclosure is just water and a little moss I have a uvb/uva light I keep on for about 12 hours a day.
All it does is burrow and hide but is active and explores the enclosure when I dig It out to eat it completely ignores the food and will walk right over it(the turtle is around 2 inches long) what could be wrong I don't want it to die!?View attachment 335850View attachment 335848View attachment 335849

Really awesome set up.

 

[Nikki-]

They can go for a bit on the egg yolk remnants.

It is less messy to feed in a separate container, but many Newly Moved turtles find it scary. Try feeding a large handful of nightcrawlers in the habitat just after a soak, when the metabolism. alertness, and circulation are at a Higher level. Watch remotely, or at least from a far distance. The worms will burrow away, but they will do no harm and will create a supply of wiggly food on-demand.

Carrot water will help supplement calories and some vital nutrients in the meantime.

Finding blackworms in person can be hit-or-miss (no one carries them where I live)...call local pet stores and ask before trekking around.

I can't find blackworms in my area sadly.
I did place a handful of nightcrawlers in the enclosure but so far it hasn't eaten any.
The turtle still won't eat. I almost think it's constipated (I Soak it every day for 15 minutes in warm water) I haven't seen poop or it poop at all. I even tried putting it in a separate container with a bunch of meal worms and/or night crawlers And it is completely uninterested in food.
I talked with someone at a pet store and they told me not to take it to a vet just yet because they will only give it medicine wich could cause further damage in the future and that the vet nearby Doesn't know a lot about turtles. I am also limited to travel since my parents are the ones who have to take me. And they don't give a damn about turtles. The guy at the vet also said to give it pumpkin to help if it's constipated ( but it won't eat anything).
I am at a loss. The guy at the vet also said I might not have a lot of time before its to late.

 

[ZenHerper]

Don't offer mealworms -- the exoskeleton is too thick for babies to digest.

Warm water (`80*F) soaks for a minimum of 30 minutes. Let s/him really motor around in it. If it has not eaten, it can't really be constipated, but the digestive organs may be too quiet from the fall season to trigger appetite. It takes some time for warmth from water or air to get into the turtle's body, since there is no hot metabolism (like we have) to charge things up internally.

Unfortunately, this is getting to be the worst time of year to start a hatchling turtle indoors -- the low sun angle is telling its brain to burrow and stay quiet until summer. This is a hard programming to override.

Make sure the room where the habitat sits is as brightly lit as possible for 12 hours a day.

@Turtulas-Len

 

[Maggie3fan]

I can't find blackworms in my area sadly.
I did place a handful of nightcrawlers in the enclosure but so far it hasn't eaten any.
The turtle still won't eat. I almost think it's constipated (I Soak it every day for 15 minutes in warm water) I haven't seen poop or it poop at all. I even tried putting it in a separate container with a bunch of meal worms and/or night crawlers And it is completely uninterested in food.
I talked with someone at a pet store and they told me not to take it to a vet just yet because they will only give it medicine wich could cause further damage in the future and that the vet nearby Doesn't know a lot about turtles. I am also limited to travel since my parents are the ones who have to take me. And they don't give a damn about turtles. The guy at the vet also said to give it pumpkin to help if it's constipated ( but it won't eat anything).
I am at a loss. The guy at the vet also said I might not have a lot of time before its to late.

It can't poop if it's not eating, cuz there's nothing there to poop. I'd start soaking it in Gerber carrots for babies. warm water and carrots for 15 minutes or so...EVERY day until it either starts eating or dies. But seriously, do start the soaks

Chewy

 

[Len B]

Here's how I start baby box turtles. I start them in a simply setup enclosure usually a 10 gallon aquarium with no direct overhead lighting. All lighting comes from the outside through the glass. Yes they get no uv by doing this but at this age they hide constantly and receive very little anyway. The lighting can be fixed after they are settled in, eating and acting normal. Places to hide and small water bowls to self soak in so you don't need to handle them. High humidity will lessen the need to soak. Warm but not to hot temps work best. Food choices to start with are dug up earthworms from the yard. meal worms in the pupae stage and crickets. Other live food items can be offered also but these are easy to come by.

 

[mark1]

i'm sure it's doable many ways , i start all hatchling turtles pretty much as Len just described , in something really small ...... i put a che at one end at a height to where it's about 90 directly under it , probably like 75 at the other end .. i use soaked spaghnum moss , enough standing water i don't need to provide a water dish ......feed little bugs , i use maggots as their first food , all bait shops have them , then small worms , always offering soaked pellets .... a big part of your problem may be puting that guy out in the open and expecting him to eat ....... i'd feed him in the container he lives in ...... when you feed him take him out of hiding and show him the food and leave him alone so he don't even see you ........

there are 7 box turtles in the plastic container inside that 20 gallon long fish tank , the container is probably 11" x 8" , they lived in that container for at least 10 months before they went back outside ....... flourescent uv light on the tank and a che in the clamp light , i cover or uncover the opening to control the temps

i've only ever hatched 3 wood turtles , same method worked for them

they grew up to have perfectly formed shells

my belief is start them off in something really small , where they can't help but run across their food and you have excellent control of the temps and humidity .....

 

[Nikki-]

i'm sure it's doable many ways , i start all hatchling turtles pretty much as Len just described , in something really small ...... i put a che at one end at a height to where it's about 90 directly under it , probably like 75 at the other end .. i use soaked spaghnum moss , enough standing water i don't need to provide a water dish ......feed little bugs , i use maggots as their first food , all bait shops have them , then small worms , always offering soaked pellets .... a big part of your problem may be puting that guy out in the open and expecting him to eat ....... i'd feed him in the container he lives in ...... when you feed him take him out of hiding and show him the food and leave him alone so he don't even see you ........

there are 7 box turtles in the plastic container inside that 20 gallon long fish tank , the container is probably 11" x 8" , they lived in that container for at least 10 months before they went back outside ....... flourescent uv light on the tank and a che in the clamp light , i cover or uncover the opening to control the temps

i've only ever hatched 3 wood turtles , same method worked for them

they grew up to have perfectly formed shells

my belief is start them off in something really small , where they can't help but run across their food and you have excellent control of the temps and humidity .....

I'll try to go to a bate shop tomorrow to get some maggots and get some Gerber carrots. I am at a loss I have been crying I feel like I am a terrible person. I have it in this setup I keep the humidity around 80% and the temperature I can only get it to 75- 84 that's with a 100w uvb/ uva heat light and a heat pad on the back of the enclosure. I'm scared of changing the enclosure as of it would stress it out.
I've had it for around 12 days.
Should I maybe chance it and clear out the enclosure and set up a small container in the current enclosure like you have in the pictures

 

[Nikki-]

I'll try to go to a bate shop tomorrow to get some maggots and get some Gerber carrots. I am at a loss I have been crying I feel like I am a terrible person. I have it in this setup I keep the humidity around 80% and the temperature I can only get it to 75- 84 that's with a 100w uvb/ uva heat light and a heat pad on the back of the enclosure. I'm scared of changing the enclosure as of it would stress it out.
I've had it for around 12 days.
Should I maybe chance it and clear out the enclosure and set up a small container in the current enclosure like you have in the picturesView attachment 336090

i'm sure it's doable many ways , i start all hatchling turtles pretty much as Len just described , in something really small ...... i put a che at one end at a height to where it's about 90 directly under it , probably like 75 at the other end .. i use soaked spaghnum moss , enough standing water i don't need to provide a water dish ......feed little bugs , i use maggots as their first food , all bait shops have them , then small worms , always offering soaked pellets .... a big part of your problem may be puting that guy out in the open and expecting him to eat ....... i'd feed him in the container he lives in ...... when you feed him take him out of hiding and show him the food and leave him alone so he don't even see you ........

there are 7 box turtles in the plastic container inside that 20 gallon long fish tank , the container is probably 11" x 8" , they lived in that container for at least 10 months before they went back outside ....... flourescent uv light on the tank and a che in the clamp light , i cover or uncover the opening to control the temps

i've only ever hatched 3 wood turtles , same method worked for them

they grew up to have perfectly formed shells

my belief is start them off in something really small , where they can't help but run across their food and you have excellent control of the temps and humidity .....

Also The turtles shell temp is 75 I know that's low but I can't seem to get it any higher

 

[Jan A]

Also The turtles shell temp is 75 I know that's low but I can't seem to get it any higher

Nikki, I have no experience in raising a turtle, but I hear your pain. I'd go with a temporary smaller enclosure is better, like Mark says. It will be easier to get temps up & see what your turtle is eating. You might want to see if you can determine if it has vision or is blind. Keep positive. Turtles & torts are slow to recover. It is not a reflection on your caregiving.