White in the lines of shell?

DrSkyentist

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Hey guys,
I just noticed that Dax has some white lines appearing in the lines of her shell. I'm worried that it may be the start of a bacterial infection. What do you guys think? She is on Coconut bedding, humidity is always at least 55%, she gets daily soaks and misted throughout the day. The basking light is always on, the UV tube light, 10.0 light is brand new and about 10 inches from the "ground" with no shade or obstruction to it. She has Hay always available, and greens about 4 times a week, twice with calcium powder. Her poop looks normal, She's eating well, and pretty active.

Here are the pictures.


IMAG0569.jpg IMAG0571.jpg IMAG0572.jpg IMAG0570.jpg IMAG0574.jpg IMAG0573.jpg IMAG0576.jpg IMAG0575.jpg
 

tortdad

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The white lines around the scutes is new growth and normal.


0.0.1 Redfoot (Spike)
0.0.1 Cherryhead Redfoot (Bruce Wayne)
1.0 Sulcata (Hal Jordan)
 

DrSkyentist

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The white lines around the scutes is new growth and normal.


0.0.1 Redfoot (Spike)
0.0.1 Cherryhead Redfoot (Bruce Wayne)
1.0 Sulcata (Hal Jordan)

Really?? Thank you! I was worried sick it was some sort of shell rot or something! What about the cut like marks on the bottom of her belly?
 

Tom

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I don't see the white lines you are talking about. I do see rough growth coming in which indicates things are too dry and its a precursor to pyramiding.

Plastron is normal. I think you are referring to the area where the umbilical scar is.
 

DrSkyentist

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I don't see the white lines you are talking about. I do see rough growth coming in which indicates things are too dry and its a precursor to pyramiding.

Plastron is normal. I think you are referring to the area where the umbilical scar is.

The humidity is never under 55% and I spray her down several times a day along with daily soaks. How high does the humidity need to be?
 

Tom

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I do 80% with humid hide that is near 100%.

Any time I go lower, I get what you are seeing on yours.

Remember, they hatch during the monsoonal rainy season. It is always very hot and humid during that time.
 

bouaboua

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Yeah。。。。。Hot and humid.
 

DrSkyentist

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How can I raise the humidity by that much? Would sphagnum pete moss work or do I need to raise the walls?
 

Tom

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Forgive my frustration, but I took the time to link several threads that explain all this in detail. It appears you didn't take the time to read them. Rather than spend more of my time typing out answers, please go back and read the threads.

Sorry to sound unkind. I'm just short on time these days. That's why I type it all out on those threads on the days when I do have some time.
 

Dizisdalife

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The easiest way to raise the humidity is to slow the evaporation of the moisture that you have in the enclosure. Many of us have created a "closed chamber" by covering and sealing our enclosures. Search the Forum for "closed chambers" and you will find over 100 threads discussing how members have built or modified an existing enclosure to achieve the desired humidity level. I also helps to have a good hygrometer/thermometer in the chamber to monitor the relative humidity and temperature.
 

DrSkyentist

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The easiest way to raise the humidity is to slow the evaporation of the moisture that you have in the enclosure. Many of us have created a "closed chamber" by covering and sealing our enclosures. Search the Forum for "closed chambers" and you will find over 100 threads discussing how members have built or modified an existing enclosure to achieve the desired humidity level. I also helps to have a good hygrometer/thermometer in the chamber to monitor the relative humidity and temperature.

Thank you for your patience, I will look into the closed chamber idea.
 

DrSkyentist

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Forgive my frustration, but I took the time to link several threads that explain all this in detail. It appears you didn't take the time to read them. Rather than spend more of my time typing out answers, please go back and read the threads.

Sorry to sound unkind. I'm just short on time these days. That's why I type it all out on those threads on the days when I do have some time.
I'm sorry about that, I was in a panic and did not think to check my previous resources. I did read the info you had previously posted and found it profoundly useful.
 

DrSkyentist

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I don't see the white lines you are talking about. I do see rough growth coming in which indicates things are too dry and its a precursor to pyramiding.

Plastron is normal. I think you are referring to the area where the umbilical scar is.

What growth is it that is the precursor for pyramiding?
 

Yvonne G

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The "white" you're talking about is merely hard water staining. I'll bet if you were to dab on a bit of olive oil and polish it off good, the white would go away. The plastron looks just fine.
 

Tom

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What growth is it that is the precursor for pyramiding?

Do you see the notch forming between the scutes? Sort of like a canyon between the plates? That will develop into pyramiding over time. Each notch with each new growth line is what forms the "pyramid". I don't have a pic handy, but if you look around for a close up shot of a tortoise that has been started with good hydration and high humidity, you won't see that notch between the scutes and the growth will look full and symmetrical in contrast to the growth on yours.

Don't misunderstand. This is not the end of the world. Its just a single growth line or two, but if it continues, each scute will form a pyramid. Open topped dry enclosures do this. In all of my years of raising sulcatas in a myriad of ways, I've never been able to produce a smooth one with less than 80% humidity in any conventional set up. 50% humidity = lump city for me. Likewise, I've never been able to maintain high humidity in any open topped enclosure regardless of spraying, wet substrate, humidifiers, etc. In contrast, maintaining humidity in a closed chamber is easy peasy. Takes no effort at all and my substrate is most dry on top. Closed chambers also use a lot less electricity.
 

DrSkyentist

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The "white" you're talking about is merely hard water staining. I'll bet if you were to dab on a bit of olive oil and polish it off good, the white would go away. The plastron looks just fine.
Do you see the notch forming between the scutes? Sort of like a canyon between the plates? That will develop into pyramiding over time. Each notch with each new growth line is what forms the "pyramid". I don't have a pic handy, but if you look around for a close up shot of a tortoise that has been started with good hydration and high humidity, you won't see that notch between the scutes and the growth will look full and symmetrical in contrast to the growth on yours.

Don't misunderstand. This is not the end of the world. Its just a single growth line or two, but if it continues, each scute will form a pyramid. Open topped dry enclosures do this. In all of my years of raising sulcatas in a myriad of ways, I've never been able to produce a smooth one with less than 80% humidity in any conventional set up. 50% humidity = lump city for me. Likewise, I've never been able to maintain high humidity in any open topped enclosure regardless of spraying, wet substrate, humidifiers, etc. In contrast, maintaining humidity in a closed chamber is easy peasy. Takes no effort at all and my substrate is most dry on top. Closed chambers also use a lot less electricity.

I've been trying to think of ways to turn the habitat into a closed top and need a few ideas. Below are a few pics of the setup. I thought of just adding a sheet of acrylic or glass but am worried that it will block the D3 lighting. What do you think? (forgive the mess, she's a messy eater!)

IMAG0581.jpg IMAG0582.jpg IMAG0583.jpg
 

Tom

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That type of enclosure is really worse case scenario. The low sides facilitate easy air exchange with the room air and make it impossible to create good growing conditions. I know of no way to modify that into and acceptable enclosure. Sorry man. You gotta buy or build something enclosed.
Like this: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
 

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