What kind of sealer do I use?

Gooch

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Hi guys, just finished staining my tortoise table, so now the "fun" part: sealing it. I started a thread earlier about if I had to put a plastic liner under the substrate, but they said I didn't need to. What is the best and cheapest sealer to use? I was thinking these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-qt-Satin-Polycrylic-Protective-Finish-63333444/202061476

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathan...door-Polyurethane-Case-of-2-200241H/202057137

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathan...rior-Polyurethane-Case-of-2-200141H/202057133

Thanks in advance!
 

Yvonne G

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I guess I misunderstood. I thought you had sealed it. I don't know the answer to your question, but let's ask @Markw84
 

Gooch

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No, not yet. I think I accidentally said i had already sealed it when I meant that i was going to seal it. @Markw84
 
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Markw84

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I've ended up using Rustoleum Countertop paint. I am extremely please with the results and it has held up well so far. My oldest application is just over a year old and there is absolutely no bubbling, peeling or lifting and it still looks like new. It can be tinted to 16 different colors. Since it is "food safe" and designed for food prep areas, I feel much better about its safety.

ON bare wood, I use a primer coat first of a good general primer. I then caulk the seams with a paintable bathtub or sink caulking. I then apply 2 or 3 coats of the countertop paint on that.

In most waterproofing applications I would use GE silicone I as it is pure silicone and has no additives. However that will not accept paint. So I use the bathtub caulk as the countertop paint is sealing it, so I don't have to worry about exposure to the caulking.

Over the years, I have used most everything, it seems. Fiberglass is good if you are building up a nice layer of cloth and make it thick enough to do the job on its own. It will not adhere well to wood as the chemicals in fiberglass react with wood in a way that will not properly bond. So it does not work in these applications.

The polyurethanes, and Deft, Lacquers, and varnishes are great for a surface that is meant to remain dry. They repel water nicely, and clean up well, but are not designed to hold up under constant contact with moisture.

The 2 part Epoxy paints would be a great choice. Can actually be used in building a waterproof tank. However, those are quite pricey and a bit tricky to work with.

Hope that helps.
 

Markw84

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Thanks for all the info @Markw84 I have already stained my tortoise table and I am ready to seal it. Do I use the silicone before or after the sealant? Is this the countertop stuff you were talking about? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-1-qt-Countertop-Tintbase-Kit-246068/202820906
Yes, that is the stuff!

However, if you have stained the wood, I'm not sure what that will do to the ability of any of these products to adhere properly. I would be hesitant to use over a stain. Check with the paint department, and see if there is a knowledgeable paint person there. Ask them how to seal it properly to get a paint to adhere. See if there is a primer that will work over the type stain you used. It is best to prime over bare wood, then caulk, then paint.
 

Gooch

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Thanks @Markw84 Do you think if I put a layer or two of water based polyurethane and then put the countertop stuff on?
 

Gooch

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@Markw84 like what I am asking is would the countertop stuff stick to 1-2 layers of water based polyurethane? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated
 

Beasty_Artemis

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I am very interested in reading more info on your question! I'm having similar inquiries myself since I am only just getting started priming my new tortoise table.
 

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