Sulcata house training: how to get her to use it?

xirxes

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I've built an enclosure that is ~32x32x36" inside diameter, fully insulated on all sides including top, 250 watt ceramic heating element bulb connected to thermostat set at 75F (Won't get to 80 this time of year it seems.)

It has a small ramp because it is built on a crate, and although she finds her way out each day, she won't go in at night, she sleeps with her head under the ramp, however once I place her in the house she stays in all night.

It has only been a week or so, but I'm wondering, is she just taking a while? Should I compact dirt up to the opening and limit other places to shelter for now? Anything wrong with the setup?

Planning on building a proper area for her to play in after housing is set.

Thanks in advance!

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wellington

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How old is she? If under two years, she should be kept a closed chamber with high humidity. She already has some pyramiding. She also needs a lot bigger space to roam. The ramp is probably too slippery. Put strips of wood on it or some roofing shingles or sand paper.
Please read our species specific care sheets under the species section.
 

Blakem

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It does take some time for them to get used to the change. I believe that I put my sulcata right in front of the door on the ramp. I also started out by placing him directly inside the house to start.
 

xirxes

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She is just over 2 years, about 9x6" shell and she was inside until very recently, with a misted enclosed section she slept in.

She will have more than 8'x 8' as soon as I clear the area around her house, but I needed to test the heating in her house situation first, to make sure it's enough.

I don't think that the ramp is too slippery, because she walks down and across it just fine, but I will definitely put some sandpaper to cover the whole thing.

I didn't mention, but I have grass hay inside to increase the heat retention, with sliced shower curtain to cover the door.

Seems like she just needs time to adjust. I'll post pics this weekend after I set up larger walking area.
 

JoesMum

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Basically, you pick her up and put her in it and then close the door so she can't get out.

In time your tort will realise that it's a place of warmth and dryness and start using it itself, but there will still be occasions when your tort decides it knows better.

We had an ongoing battle of wills with our Greek over 47 years :rolleyes: At least he stayed small enough for me to overrule... Sulcatas don't!
 

saginawhxc

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You mention heating in the house. What are you using to heat it? I ask because it's often not safe to put grass hay directly underneath a heat lamp or next to a space heater. So that might be something to consider.

Other than that, I agree with a few of the above comments. You just have to be consistent, keep putting him in it and eventually he will learn it is a place of heat and safety and will go there on his own.
 

xirxes

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Thanks for all the advice!

I have been putting her in head first after she goes to sleep, and even without shutting her in, she stays in all night. I like the flower bait option! She goes nuts for them.

As to hay and heat, I'm using a 250 watt ceramic heating element that is mounted a full 2' above the hay, attached to a 2x4 that has about 6" air clearance above it too, all thermostated to turn off at 75F.

Lastly the ramp is very short, and I may just end up putting dirt compacted all the way up to the entrance, but I like the raised above setup for rain etc. If she keeps going under the ramp I'll enclose sides.

Thanks again!
 

Yvonne G

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I just put them into the house and close the door. After doing this a few times they go in on their own.
 

Markw84

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Your ramp looks too high to be a natural walk into a burrow when the tortoise can see lower areas around it and can even see beneath it. If you were to ramp soil up around it and reduce the climb up in, it would feel much more natural. They will naturally go to corners and push under things they can find for their overnight resting spot. Make the opening as easy to access as possible.

They do take time to get used to the night box as their burrow. Usually with sulcatas, it doesn't take much more that 1-2 weeks. Once you correct the entrance, you will have to put her in every night until she starts to find it on her own.

I would really recommend against the CHE. A 250 watt CHE is too much heat in too small an area - concentrated from that 3.5" circular base of the CHE. Looks like your night box has thick enough walls to be insulated, but a shower curtain provide little insulation against cold air from the doorway. That CHE will be baking all night on a cooler night with the floor, where the tortoise is, probably not reaching 75°. The tortoise will either simply cool down in a corner, or sit directly under the hot CHE trying to warm its whole body. At 9", your tortoise is not at as much risk for shell damage, but it will grow quickly to 18-20" where the top of the shell directly under that CHE will start to slow burn and damage. With a night box that high, you could go with 2 or 3 100 watt CHE's and spread out the heat over a wider area. All wired to the same thermostat. Much better still, look at going to a radiant heat panel, and build a protected corner in which you could place an oil filled space heater. Get some Ideas from Tom's night box threads.

Get some freezer barrier, also called plastic door curtain, and use two layers for the door opening. I cut it in 4-6" wide strips and hang two layers for the opening. In Illinois, you will have many colder temps, and you need to build the door with insulation inside, and hinge it so it can be closed to really protect against the cold. Here's the night box thread for ideas...

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/another-effective-night-box.86632/
 

Yvonne G

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On the 'net look up "vinyl strip door"
 

xirxes

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Thank you all for the resources!

I have replaced the ramp with a packed earth mound much easier to climb.

I will also be adding an inside and outside layer of industrial 6" vinyl door strips to lock in the heat.

The bottom of the CHE is at 30" from the bottom, and I have the thermostat reading at shell height. As the tortoise grows larger, I will switch to two 150 watt CHE's tying into the one thermostat for shell safety.

I expanded the yard she can exercise in by about 6 feet today and by the end of the month I will Be clearing her total space, which will be about 150-175 sq ft.

Also I do notice a bit of the pyramiding so she will get a shell spray daily and a bath 3x weekly at least for the next year to assist.

Thanks again and I'll post updates!
 

Cowboy_Ken

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I like the raised above setup for rain etc. If she keeps going under the ramp I'll enclose sides.
I'm not too sure if it shows well on this picture of my ramp, but on the
right-side I have placed a piece of plywood that helps to keep than from going under the ramp or off the ledge in an awkward manner. On the left I have a piece of horse stall mat down that provides a gentle slope going in or out of the house. This is all covered by roofing tarpaper because I had it kicking around. It works great. I too,(here in Oregon) like the idea of the house being elevated not sitting flat on the mud, I mean ground.
For heat I use an electric oil filled radiator heater. The overhead heat put off by an CHE is fine, I just want the entire house heated not a certain heat zone. I've seen pictures of heat damaged scutes on tortoises caused from just sitting under one when they feel too cold overall.
 

Cowboy_Ken

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I like the raised above setup for rain etc. If she keeps going under the ramp I'll enclose sides.
I'm not too sure if it shows well on this picture of my ramp, but on the
right-side I have placed a piece of plywood that helps to keep than from going under the ramp or off the ledge in an awkward manner. On the left I have a piece of horse stall mat down that provides a gentle slope going in or out of the house. This is all covered by roofing tarpaper because I had it kicking around. It works great. I too,(here in Oregon) like the idea of the house being elevated not sitting flat on the mud, I mean ground.
For heat I use an electric oil filled radiator heater. The overhead heat put off by an CHE is fine, I just want the entire house heated not a certain heat zone. I've seen pictures of heat damaged scutes on tortoises caused from just sitting under one when they feel too cold overall.ImageUploadedByTortoise Forum1493443423.799931.jpg
Forgot the picture…
 

xirxes

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Thanks everyone! I removed the wood and packed down a soil ramp, and viola! Next day she had put herself to bed up inside and deep under the hay, same thing tonight.

I'll keep updating roaming grounds as I clear them.
 

Alicia Hoogstra

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The advice here is the best you'll find! You can always be sure they truly care about all turtles and tortoises and...well all animals!
 

xirxes

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Cleared a big area for Tortilla, and weighed her.

She will be 2 years old in August, and she is now just over 3.5lbs (1597 grams)

Here is a video update of chow down and the full roaming area.

She clears her daily Mazuri, eats 15-20 grape leaves off the vine, drinks some water and cruises in and out of her heated house all day. Tucks herself in every night.

Enjoy!

Chow time:

Prowling grounds:
 
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