Sulcata Hatchling Swollen Left Eye

[Kellymay528]

Hi, I was given a sulcata hatchling on Christmas Eve. He's still very active for a hatchling, great appetite, etc. but I noticed his left eye is swollen. Could it be some of the bedding that irritated his eye? Vitamin A deficiency? Any opinions? Anyone with the same problems that can give me some insight?

 

[russian/sulcata/tortoise]

are you using a coil bulb? what type of substrate are you using? whats his diet? can you post some pics of the tortoise?

 

[Kellymay528]

are you using a coil bulb? what type of substrate are you using? whats his diet? can you post some pics of the tortoise?

Hi, I am using the reptisun 10.0 as the UV light. I am using the coco earth bedding which I was told was safe. I am currently feeding him orchard grass, wheat grass, and a very small amount of collards and grass land food.

 

[Dizisdalife]

That coconut coir is okay for a substrate. It can irritate their eyes. It works best when it is moistened and packed down. Less chance of the loose strands getting in their eye. The eye could be irritated from some other source as well. The substrate, because it looks dry and its new, caught my attention first. You can soak your little one in some warm water and maybe it will wash away any piece in the eye. @Yvonne G has more experience treating irritated eyes.

 

[Kellymay528]

That coconut coir is okay for a substrate. It can irritate their eyes. It works best when it is moistened and packed down. Less chance of the loose strands getting in their eye. The eye could be irritated from some other source as well. The substrate, because it looks dry and its new, caught my attention first. You can soak your little one in some warm water and maybe it will wash away any piece in the eye. @Yvonne G has more experience treating irritated eyes.

Okay thank you. He's always wiping his face. He also blinks a lot.. Not sure if that's normal. I try to keep the bedding moist but it seems to dry within three hours. If anyone needs to know I received him from Back Water Reptiles. I heard negative things about them. He came in pretty good shape. His shell was a tad flimsy on the bottom and sides but I was told it's normal for a hatchling. I am trying to keep this guy as healthy as possible. I'm doing everything right... Just not sure what's going on.

 

[wellington]

Please read Toms threads in the bottom of my post for proper raising of this little one. He needs a high humidity of 80% the only real way of getting this is to make a closed chamber. Cover the enclosure. Dampen the coir with warm water, pat it down and cover the enclosure and also maintain a temp of 80 day and night with a basking spot of 90-95 or even a little higher. Otherwise your enclosure looks pretty good. Hatchlings are a little soft, but yours looks a little older then a hatchling and should be firm by now or real soon. Do you know how old he is? The diet sounds good, if you can add even more variety, more is always better. Are you giving some calcium? A pinch on the food twice a week.

 

[tortdad]

When it's only one eye that has a problem it's usually from a mechanical injury such as substraight in the eye or a scratch from rubbing it. Coconut coir is good but fine grade orchard bark is better for sulcatas. Like said above wet and pack it down and give extra soaks and rinse that eye. Please do check out toms care sheets. They are very informative.

Just and FYI. When both eyes are swollen is when we worry about lights and what it's been eating.

Stash this Tid-bit of info in the back of your brain. Another common eye issue is watery eyes or crying tortoise. This can be cause buy two things. Your environment is too dry (which is most of the time) or the tortoise is too hot.

Welcome. Babies take a lot of work to make sure they are good to go. It does get easier as you go along.

 

[Tom]

He's always wiping his face. He also blinks a lot.. Not sure if that's normal.

I see a couple of possibilities.
1. The above quoted eye wiping and blinking is common when those coil type cfl UV bulbs are used. They do this because their eyes are burning.

2. Because only one eye is showing this issue, this might be due to something else. I have seen this sort of malady several times in tortoises started with the dry routine, which yours most likely was.

Please read these threads for care and housing tips:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.78361/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/

 

[Kellymay528]

H

Please read Toms threads in the bottom of my post for proper raising of this little one. He needs a high humidity of 80% the only real way of getting this is to make a closed chamber. Cover the enclosure. Dampen the coir with warm water, pat it down and cover the enclosure and also maintain a temp of 80 day and night with a basking spot of 90-95 or even a little higher. Otherwise your enclosure looks pretty good. Hatchlings are a little soft, but yours looks a little older then a hatchling and should be firm by now or real soon. Do you know how old he is? The diet sounds good, if you can add even more variety, more is always better. Are you giving some calcium? A pinch on the food twice a week.

I'm not sure about his age but he is 2 1/2 inches long. I am giving him calcium and keep his enclosure humid. I go to school everyday for 5 hours so by the time I get home the substrate is dry. What variety would you suggest adding?

 

[Kellymay528]

I see a couple of possibilities.
1. The above quoted eye wiping and blinking is common when those coil type cfl UV bulbs are used. They do this because their eyes are burning.

2. Because only one eye is showing this issue, this might be due to something else. I have seen this sort of malady several times in tortoises started with the dry routine, which yours most likely was.

Please read these threads for care and housing tips:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.78361/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/

Okay thank you. What UV bulb would you suggest using? I didn't think the reptisun 10.0 could hurt their eyes.

 

[Tom]

Okay thank you. What UV bulb would you suggest using? I didn't think the reptisun 10.0 could hurt their eyes.

There are two types of "Repti-sun" bulbs. The long tube type and the coil type cfl. The tubes work just fine, but they have to be close to the tortoise. No more than 10-12" away. If your distances are greater than that, look into Arcadia HO bulbs. I get mine here: http://www.lightyourreptiles.com

Alternatively, mercury vapor bulbs will give you heat, light and UVB all in one, sort of like the sun. Then you just need a CHE on a thermostat to maintain ambient temperatures day and night.

I don't recall seeing where in the world you are, but if your tortoise can get real outdoor sunshine for most of the year in a safe outdoor enclosure, then you don't need any indoor UV at all. In that case regular heat and light bulbs will suit you just fine.

All this and more is explained in those threads I linked. Please read them for the benefit of your tortoise.

 

[Kellymay528]

There are two types of "Repti-sun" bulbs. The long tube type and the coil type cfl. The tubes work just fine, but they have to be close to the tortoise. No more than 10-12" away. If your distances are greater than that, look into Arcadia HO bulbs. I get mine here: http://www.lightyourreptiles.com

Alternatively, mercury vapor bulbs will give you heat, light and UVB all in one, sort of like the sun. Then you just need a CHE on a thermostat to maintain ambient temperatures day and night.

I don't recall seeing where in the world you are, but if your tortoise can get real outdoor sunshine for most of the year in a safe outdoor enclosure, then you don't need any indoor UV at all. In that case regular heat and light bulbs will suit you just fine.

All this and more is explained in those threads I linked. Please read them for the benefit of your tortoise.

Thanks I live in Maryland so it's not possible at the moment haha.

 

[Kellymay528]

There are two types of "Repti-sun" bulbs. The long tube type and the coil type cfl. The tubes work just fine, but they have to be close to the tortoise. No more than 10-12" away. If your distances are greater than that, look into Arcadia HO bulbs. I get mine here: http://www.lightyourreptiles.com

Alternatively, mercury vapor bulbs will give you heat, light and UVB all in one, sort of like the sun. Then you just need a CHE on a thermostat to maintain ambient temperatures day and night.

I don't recall seeing where in the world you are, but if your tortoise can get real outdoor sunshine for most of the year in a safe outdoor enclosure, then you don't need any indoor UV at all. In that case regular heat and light bulbs will suit you just fine.

All this and more is explained in those threads I linked. Please read them for the benefit of your tortoise.

Also, which Arcadia would you recommend... there are a good amount of choices. Do these bulbs usually have a good life expectancy?

 

[Tom]

Also, which Arcadia would you recommend... there are a good amount of choices. Do these bulbs usually have a good life expectancy?

I am using the Arcadia 12% HO bulbs in a couple of my enclosures and they are working great. The manufacturers claim that their is a a lot of UV drop off over time, but the only way to know what your bulb is doing in your enclosure is to get a UV meter and test it. The bulbs may continue to make light for years, but you need a meter to test for UV. Since you will be dependent on indoor artificial UV for most of every year in your climate I suggest you get a good light meter so you can measure your UV level and make the necessary adjustments. Not having a UV meter is no different than not having a thermometer and just guessing at your temperatures. This is my meter of choice:
https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html

 

[wellington]

If you don't get the meter, replace the bulb at least every 8-12 months. The tube type bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months. These are just safe recommendations. With the meter, you may get a little longer life from them.

 

[Tom]

If you don't get the meter, replace the bulb at least every 8-12 months. The tube type bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months. These are just safe recommendations. With the meter, you may get a little longer life from them.

I think this is a good plan. Most people get their tortoises out for sunshine in the summer months, so it is not all that critical to have indoor UV at that time. I suggest putting in a new bulb every fall. This way your bulb is nice and fresh for fall and winter when your tort needs it because it is inside all day every day, and as the bulb is theoretically losing its effectiveness months later, your tortoise will be getting outside into the real sunshine during the warmer months.

 

[wellington]

Love the plan of every fall. You get the most from your bulb when you need it most.