Russian Tortoise won’t eat

[Erlabella]

Hi everyone
My russian tortoise has been refusing food recently and I can’t figure out why. She’s 2 yo (turning 3) and is being kept in an open wooden enclosure. She’s being kept inside all year round, as the outside temperatures are too low even during the summer. I’m thinking she may be hibernating, but she’s still active. She likes to dig and explore. The only changes in her behavior is she has been hiding more than she used to. When I got her last august she refused to eat due to stress, but since then she has been eating everything I’ve offered her. I usually give her spring mix mixed with dried grasses and meadow herbs, and vitamins once a week. She has a cuttlefish bone in her enclosure which she occasionally chews on. She has a shallow dish of clean tap water too. The ambient temp in the enclosure is around 70-75 on the cold side and around 85-90 on the basking spot side (air temp). Basking spot is around 105-120 measured with temp gun. The bulb I use is a basking spot lamp with UV lights.
It’s been a few weeks since she ate a decent sized meal and I’m getting very worried. Even though tortoises can go months without eating. But still. The timing is very strange. I’ve not noticed any poops in her enclosure and I’m worried she may be impacted. Her substrate consists of those blocks that expand in water (forgot what it’s called) and she has alots of hides. Anyone here experienced this too?

 

[Lyn W]

Can you post some pics of her enclosure including bulbs you are using, please so that members can advise on any changes you may need to make.
Do you have a source of UVB which is essential for tort digestion and absorption of minerals etc?

 

[Erlabella]

Here is a picture of her enclosure at the moment. Planning on building her a larger one. Also to get her a basking spot lamp and a seperate UV light (tube).

 

[Maro2Bear]

Greetings....temps all seem warm enough to encourage activity. Just wondering have you given your tort a nice good soaking in warm water? ((Pix not popping up here yet))

 

[Erlabella]

No I haven’t. Seems like a good I idea I’ll give it a try.

 

[Tom]

Overall, things look pretty good there. Here are a few points I see that might make a difference:

• The enclosure is too small. Keeping them in enclosures that are too small can cause multiple problems over the long term.
• Diet needs improvement. Should be mostly broadleaf weeds. Spring mix is okay once in a while, but not as a staple. The supplements you are offering are helpful, but not a solution to this problem. If you must use store bought greens rotate through endive, escarole and chicory as staples and use the spring mix and lots of others for variety from time to time.
• Do you ever soak the tortoise? 3-4 times a week would be helpful in this case.
• Your substrate looks too dry. It should be lightly damp, but not wet.
• How long has that bulb been in use? Some MVBs stop producing UV in less than three months of use, even though they still light up and appear to be working. Got a meter? Know anyone with a meter?
• Try putting a flat rock, a piece of slate, or sandstone under the bulb to disperse the heat, offer a better basking area, and give a more accurate temperature reading. 120 is too hot. You might need to raise the bulb up a little higher. 95-100 directly under the bulb is good.

Questions and conversation are welcome.

 

[Erlabella]

Overall, things look pretty good there. Here are a few points I see that might make a difference:

• The enclosure is too small. Keeping them in enclosures that are too small can cause multiple problems over the long term.
• Diet needs improvement. Should be mostly broadleaf weeds. Spring mix is okay once in a while, but not as a staple. The supplements you are offering are helpful, but not a solution to this problem. If you must use store bought greens rotate through endive, escarole and chicory as staples and use the spring mix and lots of others for variety from time to time.
• Do you ever soak the tortoise? 3-4 times a week would be helpful in this case.
• Your substrate looks too dry. It should be lightly damp, but not wet.
• How long has that bulb been in use? Some MVBs stop producing UV in less than three months of use, even though they still light up and appear to be working. Got a meter? Know anyone with a meter?
• Try putting a flat rock, a piece of slate, or sandstone under the bulb to disperse the heat, offer a better basking area, and give a more accurate temperature reading. 120 is too hot. You might need to raise the bulb up a little higher. 95-100 directly under the bulb is good.

Questions and conversation are welcome.

Thank you for your answers! Very helpful.
I’ll admit I have to make a few changes, and I will. But diet wise, this is the best I can offer sadly. I’ve been in every large stores in the country and spring mix is the best I can find. No collards, mustards, dandelions, escarole, endives, nor chicory. I usually don’t give her much spring mix. Mostly pet store foods (but no pellets).

 

[Tom]

Thank you for your answers! Very helpful.
I’ll admit I have to make a few changes, and I will. But diet wise, this is the best I can offer sadly. I’ve been in every large stores in the country and spring mix is the best I can find. No collards, mustards, dandelions, escarole, endives, nor chicory. I usually don’t give her much spring mix. Mostly pet store foods (but no pellets).

How about looking into learning all the weeds around you? These are the best foods for them anyway and they are free. You just have to learn to ID them. Or growing your own?

 

[Yvonne G]

You can offer your tortoise any of the greens that are normally consumed by people living there. People on the Faroe Islands must shop at the produce market. Whatever greens and veggies that are sold for people are ok to try for your tortoise. They don't usually like pet store food.

 

[Erlabella]

The most common ones I can find in my area are dandelions, daisies and clovers. Other than that it’s just grass. Those are only during summer.

 

[RosemaryDW]

I think the Faroe Islands are pretty much big rocks, right? I wouldn’t think much would grow there either.

You may be able to get the brand Pre-Alpin there? Their testudo mix. Or NutraZu tortoise diet? It sounds like your mixing in dried grasses and herbal hay with the other foods may be close to one of those shelf products but adding some in as a supplement couldn’t hurt.

I think your issues are more likely caused by the enclosure issues mentioned above but it’s something to think about as a long-term diet adjustment.

**I think you must have access to radish and turnip tops somewhere? My Russian will also take the tops of green onions or scallions, and even the occasional bite of leek. I give her a bit of mushroom a bite of sweet potato or winter squash on the rare occasion.

 

[RosemaryDW]

Oops, didn’t mean to suggest it isn’t a very nice rock! Just that it’s mostly cold and damp.

 

[Erlabella]

No you’re right. Nothing grows here due to harsh weather conditions. I might be able to grow my own plants though.

I have not heard of those brands but I’m probably able to order them somewhere.

I have not heard of anyone growing turnips and radishes here, but carrot tops, beetroot tops, kale and kohlrabi are. If those are good options for a tortoise

Also about the cage size, which size is recommended? I’ve read that 2x4’ is the minimum cage size, but many agree that it’s too small. Would a 4x8’ be an adequate size?

 

[TammyJ]

It's an open wooden box, and it looks nicely set up..... but what about humidity? I don't know much about Russian tortoises but there is a required level of humidity for the enclosure.

 

[RosemaryDW]

Four by eight is the minimum suggested size for an adult. Here is our Russian care sheet, which includes the basics on size and lighting: https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/.

If you can get your tortoise to eat carrot tops or beet tops, they are good on occasion. Kale is fine to rotate in. If you can get the tops of kohlrabi and your tortoise will eat it, it’s is also fine to fit in. Kale and Kohlrabi (and collards, turnips, radishes, and mustard!) are part of the same plant family, the brassica family. This is an important plant family for Russians in the wild. I think you can go as high as thirty percent total brassica for a Russian but it depends on how much other variety they are getting, especially in regards to fiber.

If your Russian doesn’t like something the first time (or three) around, keep offering it when you can. You just never know when they’ll decide they like something.

 

[Grannie griff]

Hi everyone
My russian tortoise has been refusing food recently and I can’t figure out why. She’s 2 yo (turning 3) and is being kept in an open wooden enclosure. She’s being kept inside all year round, as the outside temperatures are too low even during the summer. I’m thinking she may be hibernating, but she’s still active. She likes to dig and explore. The only changes in her behavior is she has been hiding more than she used to. When I got her last august she refused to eat due to stress, but since then she has been eating everything I’ve offered her. I usually give her spring mix mixed with dried grasses and meadow herbs, and vitamins once a week. She has a cuttlefish bone in her enclosure which she occasionally chews on. She has a shallow dish of clean tap water too. The ambient temp in the enclosure is around 70-75 on the cold side and around 85-90 on the basking spot side (air temp). Basking spot is around 105-120 measured with temp gun. The bulb I use is a basking spot lamp with UV lights.
It’s been a few weeks since she ate a decent sized meal and I’m getting very worried. Even though tortoises can go months without eating. But still. The timing is very strange. I’ve not noticed any poops in her enclosure and I’m worried she may be impacted. Her substrate consists of those blocks that expand in water (forgot what it’s called) and she has alots of hides. Anyone here experienced this too?

 

[Grannie griff]

My horsefield is the same I've tried everything going to the vets in the morning

 

[Dena]

I would suggest a nice soak (at least 20 minutes) several times a week in lukewarm water. Also, my Russian got more active when we made his enclosure brighter with a lamp. Finally, try aloe, collard greens in his diet. Good luck!

 

[Grannie griff]

I would suggest a nice soak (at least 20 minutes) several times a week in lukewarm water. Also, my Russian got more active when we made his enclosure brighter with a lamp. Finally, try aloe, collard greens in his diet. Good luck!

 

[Grannie griff]

Thanks had her to vets she said it's parasite's apparently they have them but she has a lot luckerly she did a wee & poo si they could test other than she said she's in good condition thanks for advice I'll do that