Russian Tortoise Care- From My Experiences!

[TortoiseRacket]

Before we get into this, I want to say that this is based off of my experience and a mix of care sheets that seem to work for me.
Please critique- I am always learning!



Russian Tortoise- Testudo Horsfeldi- Care Sheet

Availability:
Russian tortoises are imported out of India and Pakistan in large numbers, usually in terrible conditions. When considering to get a Russian tortoise, please adopt from rescues, buy a captive bred tortoise, or take one from a person who can’t care for theirs anymore. Captive Bred tortoises will be expensive, but will last longer and be “friendlier”.

Housing:
On to housing. A minimum of 6x3 will suit one Russian tortoise. Bigger is better. Only under very specific circumstances, DO NOT house two Russian tortoises together. For substrate, a deep layer of topsoil or cypress mulch will work fine. Do not use ZooMed Repti-Bark, as it has very small splinters that can damage your tortoises eyes or get lodged in its digestive system. Succulents will provide a natural look, just make sure they are tortoise-safe.

Lighting/Heating:
Russian tortoises need 10-14 hours of UVB light and heat daily. Russian tortoises will not sit under UVB, if your tortoise isn’t getting a lot of it because he is hiding or somewhere else in the cage, do not worry. The basking spot should be 90-103 degrees F. Cool side should be 77-86 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not use cheap pet store temperature and humidity gauges- they are not accurate. Spend the extra $10.00 and get a temperature gun.

Diet:
In the wild, Russian tortoises eat sparse vegetation. In captivity, you should have a variety of green vegetables, such as
-romaine lettuce
-leaf lettuce
-chicory
-weeds
-sunflowers
-mustard, collard, and dandelion greens
-etc.

Water/Humidity:
50-70% humidity- achieve this by wetting substrate completely weekly. Twice daily 10-15 minute sprays from a plant mister.
For babies, a closed chamber works, but it is not needed for adults. Water bowls are nessicary. You should soak babies weekly, adults every other week.

 

[ascott]

View attachment 262109 Before we get into this, I want to say that this is based off of my experience and a mix of care sheets that seem to work for me.
Please critique- I am always learning!



Russian Tortoise- Testudo Horsfeldi- Care Sheet

Availability:
Russian tortoises are imported out of India and Pakistan in large numbers, usually in terrible conditions. When considering to get a Russian tortoise, please adopt from rescues, buy a captive bred tortoise, or take one from a person who can’t care for theirs anymore. Captive Bred tortoises will be expensive, but will last longer and be “friendlier”.

Housing:
On to housing. A minimum of 6x3 will suit one Russian tortoise. Bigger is better. Only under very specific circumstances, DO NOT house two Russian tortoises together. For substrate, a deep layer of topsoil or cypress mulch will work fine. Do not use ZooMed Repti-Bark, as it has very small splinters that can damage your tortoises eyes or get lodged in its digestive system. Succulents will provide a natural look, just make sure they are tortoise-safe.

Lighting/Heating:
Russian tortoises need 10-14 hours of UVB light and heat daily. Russian tortoises will not sit under UVB, if your tortoise isn’t getting a lot of it because he is hiding or somewhere else in the cage, do not worry. The basking spot should be 90-103 degrees F. Cool side should be 77-86 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not use cheap pet store temperature and humidity gauges- they are not accurate. Spend the extra $10.00 and get a temperature gun.

Diet:
In the wild, Russian tortoises eat sparse vegetation. In captivity, you should have a variety of green vegetables, such as
-romaine lettuce
-leaf lettuce
-chicory
-weeds
-sunflowers
-mustard, collard, and dandelion greens
-etc.

Water/Humidity:
50-70% humidity- achieve this by wetting substrate completely weekly. Twice daily 10-15 minute sprays from a plant mister.
For babies, a closed chamber works, but it is not needed for adults. Water bowls are nessicary. You should soak babies weekly, adults every other week.

So is this little beauty in your care....I laughed at the gorgeous, full lift on the head and look into the direction of the camera...what a ham...lol