Recommended UVB bulb for hinge-back?

Korall

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Sooo.. I'm working on a new terrarium for my bells hinge-back tortoise and I was thinking it was time to get a new UVB bulb, for two reasons:

1. I don't completely trust the current one I use, it has worked fine so far but I feel like I could get a better one.
2. My new terrarium is bigger and the old one is too small compared to the new terrarium.

So, anyone who would recommend a specific uvb bulb that would work for a hinge-back? Preferably international shipping.
 

ZEROPILOT

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Look for UVB florescent strip (tube) lights made for reptiles.
They come in different lengths.
Avoid the coiled type that look like twisted light bulbs.
I use a Reptisun or similar 18" 15 watt "5.0" tube and fixture. If it's a very large enclosure, you will need a longer one or more than one.
 

Korall

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Look for UVB florescent strip (tube) lights made for reptiles.
They come in different lengths.
Avoid the coiled type that look like twisted light bulbs.
I use a Reptisun or similar 18" 15 watt "5.0" tube and fixture. If it's a very large enclosure, you will need a longer one or more than one.

Thanks for the info! I was considering a florescent bulb.
 

Korall

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Korall

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Markw84

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Thanks for telling me!
Now when thinking about it i can definitely see how it could be too strong based on their origins.
I disagree with this way of looking at the difference... The 10.0 vs the 5.0 or even the HO bulb is best decided based on the distance you have in your enclosure where the bulb will be mounted. As far as the type of animal - "open basker" vs. "shade basking" using the upper vs. lower end of the recommended distance range will be more of a consideration.

For example, the 5.0 is recommended for mounting at 7" - 12" above reptile height. I would use more in the 12" range for hingeback or redfoot.
The 10.0 is recommended at 10" -18" above reptile height. I would use in the 15-18" range for hingeback.
The HO bulbs can be mounted even higher for applications where that is appropriate.

So the issue I consider, is the best height my enclosure is built for.
 

Korall

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I disagree with this way of looking at the difference... The 10.0 vs the 5.0 or even the HO bulb is best decided based on the distance you have in your enclosure where the bulb will be mounted. As far as the type of animal - "open basker" vs. "shade basking" using the upper vs. lower end of the recommended distance range will be more of a consideration.

For example, the 5.0 is recommended for mounting at 7" - 12" above reptile height. I would use more in the 12" range for hingeback or redfoot.
The 10.0 is recommended at 10" -18" above reptile height. I would use in the 15-18" range for hingeback.
The HO bulbs can be mounted even higher for applications where that is appropriate.

So the issue I consider, is the best height my enclosure is built for.

Okay, il take that into consideration since my enclosure is quite high.
 

Anyfoot

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I disagree with this way of looking at the difference... The 10.0 vs the 5.0 or even the HO bulb is best decided based on the distance you have in your enclosure where the bulb will be mounted. As far as the type of animal - "open basker" vs. "shade basking" using the upper vs. lower end of the recommended distance range will be more of a consideration.

For example, the 5.0 is recommended for mounting at 7" - 12" above reptile height. I would use more in the 12" range for hingeback or redfoot.
The 10.0 is recommended at 10" -18" above reptile height. I would use in the 15-18" range for hingeback.
The HO bulbs can be mounted even higher for applications where that is appropriate.

So the issue I consider, is the best height my enclosure is built for.
Mark, does a 10.0 give off more illumination than a 5.0 (same manufacturer of bulb)? I don't mean the UVB spectrum, I mean the visible light spectrum.
 

Markw84

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Mark, does a 10.0 give off more illumination than a 5.0 (same manufacturer of bulb)? I don't mean the UVB spectrum, I mean the visible light spectrum.
Craig:

Short Answer = No. They will both appear just a "bright" to you. The 5.0 means about 5% of the "light" being emitted is in the UVB spectrum. The 10.0 has 10% of the "light"" being emitted in the UVB spectrum. Both should have about 30% in the UVA spectrum.

But there is a lot more to your question than most realize. Since you seem to be the type that like to delve into things more than most, let me explain what I mean... TMI ALERT. read on at your own risk! But "illuminating" if we are wanting to understand more about providing proper light and heat for our tortoises. Using artificial light sources cause us to add just parts of this spectrum depending upon what we choose. Incandescent, fluorescent, Infrared...??? and many times, omit other parts we can't detect, but are equally important.

Light is electromagnetic radiation and is certain wavelengths of the electromagnetic spectrum. Electromagnetic radiation is also the same thing that we use to send communication signals, the energy in microwave ovens, take x-rays, radar, even nuclear power. So depending upon the wavelength, it does VERY DIFFERNT THINGS! But since the "natural light source" the sun, is emitting ALL these things, it is important to see what they do and how our planet filters them to allow life to exist.

The bulbs should give off the same amount of "electromagnetic waves", or "light". "Light" is actually just a part of the electromagnetic spectrum, which also includes UV And IR. The full electromagnetic spectrum goes from long radio waves down to the shortest and most powerful rays = gamma rays.. A very short gamma ray is the most powerful of forces and is what is emitted by a nuclear explosion. An extremely long radio wave is what we use to send communications. Visible light for humans starts at violet - 390nm, up to blue - 750nm in wavelength. A nanometer (nm) is one billionth of a meter. So these waves are very short. The longest waves are radio waves that can be from a few inches up to a full kilometer in length! Our microwave ovens use waves in the few inches length range. Radar uses waves around 1cm in length. Then we get to "light" and Infrared. Our CHE's operate around 1000-1500nm. Visible light starts with violet at about 750nm. So we see, by using CHE's we are using heat from a source that does not emit any visible light at all. I believe that is important. As wavelengths get shorter we get into Ultra Violet. UVA (blacklight UV) is 320nm - 400nm. UVB is 290nm - 320nm. Then we go to UVC which is germicidal and normally in the 250nm range. X-rays are in the 10nm - .01nm range. Below that is gamma rays!!

Earth's atmosphere, filters a great deal of the spectrum. For example, at sunrise or sunset we see mostly reds and oranges - because the light is travelling through much more atmosphere at that low angle and most of the shorter wavelength light is scattered in the atmosphere. So we see oranges and reds 580nm+ reaching our eye. Mid day, since most short, blue light 475nm is most easily scattered by the atmosphere, we see blue most everywhere we look in the sky no matter what direction you look. Same with the ocean on a clear day. Most plants absorb and use most light in the spectrum in photosynthesis, except green 510nm, which is reflected by the plants. So plants appear green! A color obviously associated with more nutritious food for our tortoises. So the "colors" of light we provide is important if we are to provide what our tortoises are designed to live with. The longer, more penetrating wavelengths. Orange and above, are important for heat, and recognition of heat sources, even possibly time of day triggers. Mid wavelengths in active growing and nutritious food recognition. The shorter wavelengths, Blues and below, seem very associated with well being, activity, health, breeding and probably time of year triggers. And this include the UV. And tortoises see much shorter wavelengths that we do = probably down to 350nm or so. So there is great value in that short wavelength light to them. They can see light we cannot. It is important to them and used when we cannot even see it to judge its presence. And that is all in the short wavelength end of the spectrum.

The UV in natural sunlight is probably 95% UVA 5% UVB. Shorter wavelengths are totally filtered by our atmosphere. So UVC does not exist in natural sunlight on earth, and most UVB is filtered out. The time of year dramatically changes that filtering as the angle of the sun changes, and the more cloud cover of a rainy season,. So UV light and blue light - that end of the spectrum is very important in all annual cycles of their lives. "Brighter" blues and UV = more activity, feeding, breeding.

SO, FINALLY, what does this mean for me, and the answer to this simple question?

In providing UVB, we cannot forget providing an even "brighter", stronger UVA is equally important. Is the lamp providing both? But then are we sacrificing other parts of light in our effort to provide those shorter wavelengths? So I like to be sure I am also providing light with a good CRI (color rendering index) with compares a light source to the wavelength distribution of visible light in sunlight. Normally fluorescents in the 5000K range are best at that, but normally those will be slightly higher priced than the cheaper bulbs. And then are we also providing the longer wavelength end for basking. I believe the longer wavelengths attract that behavior, or they will look to avoid when too hot, as they are close to the IR spectrum. So when they want heat, that is what provides heat. When they want to cool down, rest, that would be avoided. Therefore, since ALL incandescent light produces a good amount of IR as well, those are good basking sources but not the best night heat options. CHE's and radiant panels are great therefore, for night heat, without any of the triggers of visible light since they do not emit any light in the visible spectrum, while "night bulbs" do.

I find providing "proper' light a fascinating topic and there is so much to learn yet!
 

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