Preparing for a sulcata hatchling (Philippines)

edricivan

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Hi all!

As the title states I'm about to setup my first enclosure for a sulcata hatchling. I've read Tom's posts

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/

and I was thinking of going in that direction.

It'll basically be a rectangular box with coco peat as substrate, a ceramic heat emitter, a 65w incandescent flood bulb, two terra cotta dishes for H20, and a upturned box as a humid hide. I'll probably use some sort of window mechanism with glass for the front part.

I was wondering if this is necessary in our climate? I just googled our weather right now and it's 32 deg with 70% humidity. Of course I'll be putting the enclosure indoors so there would be a big difference.

If i set it up like Tom would that be overkill?

What dimensions would I need for 2months-1year? 1-2 years? When does he need to start staying outdoors?

Just planning ahead so I don't end up having to build another enclosure in 6 months.

Cheers guys, this is my first time posting and the forum has already helped me heaps!
 

edricivan

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Also there might be some days when I won't be able to take him out for some natural UV time, Tom suggested Mercury Vapor bulbs. So would this mean I'd have a mercury vapor bulb, ceramic heat emitter and a 65W incandescent bulb in the enclosure?

Mercurty Vapor Bulb for basking + 65W incandescent bulb for basking , CHE for ambient heat?
 

Yvonne G

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Hi, and welcome to the forum!

You want to mimic the monsoon season in your little baby habitat. However you can get that result is the "right way."
 

edricivan

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Hi, and welcome to the forum!

You want to mimic the monsoon season in your little baby habitat. However you can get that result is the "right way."

Hi Yvonne! Thanks! I also saw your enclosure on that thread, it was very nice. I'm just trying to get as much details as I can so I can build it right :)
 

Tom

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Many people in your climate make the mistake of thinking things are warm enough and so they don't make a proper enclosure set up like what you are describing. From what I have seen, this almost unanimously causes problems. You are on the right rack. Make that closed, temperature controlled enclosure you are planning and you will be rewarded with a healthy tortoise.

I prefer to build a 4x8' chamber and be done with it. You can easily divide it in half with a single board keep the baby in 4x4 if you wish, but a 4x8 should last a year or two and by that time, they are usually big enough to live outside full time with a heated night box in warmer climates like yours.

I find that MVBs run too hot for closed chambers. Tortoises do not have to have aUV source all day every day. If you can get your tortoise outside in a safe enclosure for an hour two or three times a week, that is plenty. If you have to skip two or three weeks in a row due to bad weather or a busy schedule, it will not hurt a thing. They have to be indoors with no UV for a long time before problems will start. In your warm climate, I don't anticipate you will need indoor UV.
 

edricivan

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Many people in your climate make the mistake of thinking things are warm enough and so they don't make a proper enclosure set up like what you are describing. From what I have seen, this almost unanimously causes problems. You are on the right rack. Make that closed, temperature controlled enclosure you are planning and you will be rewarded with a healthy tortoise.

I prefer to build a 4x8' chamber and be done with it. You can easily divide it in half with a single board keep the baby in 4x4 if you wish, but a 4x8 should last a year or two and by that time, they are usually big enough to live outside full time with a heated night box in warmer climates like yours.

I find that MVBs run too hot for closed chambers. Tortoises do not have to have aUV source all day every day. If you can get your tortoise outside in a safe enclosure for an hour two or three times a week, that is plenty. If you have to skip two or three weeks in a row due to bad weather or a busy schedule, it will not hurt a thing. They have to be indoors with no UV for a long time before problems will start. In your warm climate, I don't anticipate you will need indoor UV.

Hi Tom!

First off I'd like to thank you for all your posts, I learned so much without even posting a single thread.

Dimensions:

Oh 8x4 feet? Wowza! I was hoping I could keep him/her in my study. I have space for maybe a 6x2. I can just build another enclosure after a year, as I have a workshop at my disposal. What would be the dimensions if it was just for a hatchling to a year old sulcata?

(Partly the reason I'm asking is so I don't shock the missus with a 8x4' enclosure in the house hahaha

Lighting:

The 65W bulb will be on a timer right? Is this for basking?

Should the ceramic heater be attached to a thermostat that switches on and off depending on temp?

Is there a reptile ceramic heater that's automatic in the market? If so what's it called?

From my understanding of your care sheet 2.0 the CHE is for ambient temperature right?

Monitoring:

Really noob question on this one. As for the temp+humidity monitor is this available in petshops only? Or is it readily available in hardware stores?

Cheers!
 

Tom

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6x2 will be fine for a baby. It will probably last a year, but that will depend on growth rate. I've had them hit 1000 grams in one year. Others grow much slower. Depends a lot on how they are started in their first few days and weeks.

Yes on the 65 watt flood bulb for basking and on a timer for 12 hours.

Yes on hooking up the CHE to the thermostat.

Your CHE becomes "automatic" when you hook it up to a thermostat. I don't know of any combos that include all this in one package.

Yes, I use the CHE to maintain ambient temps in my chambers.

You can get thermometers and hygrometers from many sources. I usually get mine from the hardware store.
 

edricivan

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6x2 will be fine for a baby. It will probably last a year, but that will depend on growth rate. I've had them hit 1000 grams in one year. Others grow much slower. Depends a lot on how they are started in their first few days and weeks.

Yes on the 65 watt flood bulb for basking and on a timer for 12 hours.

Yes on hooking up the CHE to the thermostat.

Your CHE becomes "automatic" when you hook it up to a thermostat. I don't know of any combos that include all this in one package.

Yes, I use the CHE to maintain ambient temps in my chambers.

You can get thermometers and hygrometers from many sources. I usually get mine from the hardware store.


Ok it looks like I'm going to have a hard time finding a thermostat here.

Regarding taking out the hatchling to get some natural UV, what's the best way to go about with that? I can build him a pen with a screen cover. Just have him walk around in that for an hour? Then put him back in his enclosure for a soak?
 

AzAngel

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For an outside enclosure for my hatchling I just use a 5x3 garden box. I made a lid with some wood scraps and chicken wire on the top to keep out any possible animals that might think my hatchling is a snack. He spends about 1- 2 hours a day outside depeding on the weather. My garden box is movable so I move it all around my yard to get fresh grass. It is vary basic for now. I will be working on a perminate outdoor enclosure this winter when the weather is nice.
 

edricivan

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For an outside enclosure for my hatchling I just use a 5x3 garden box. I made a lid with some wood scraps and chicken wire on the top to keep out any possible animals that might think my hatchling is a snack. He spends about 1- 2 hours a day outside depeding on the weather. My garden box is movable so I move it all around my yard to get fresh grass. It is vary basic for now. I will be working on a perminate outdoor enclosure this winter when the weather is nice.
Curious as to how you made it movable. Do you mind posting a photo?
 

AzAngel

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I used hinges on each of the corners that allow it to fold. The hinges have little spikes on the bottom that sink into the ground to help with stability. The first picture is of the hinge the second is when the box is in the grass and the third is when the box is folded. This is NOT a permanent enclosure. It is used so my hatchling can get some fresh grass and sunshine for about 1 hour a day. I am going to build a permanent outdoor enclosure this winter when the weather is better. It was too hot this summer to work in the backyard. :)
 

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edricivan

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I used hinges on each of the corners that allow it to fold. The hinges have little spikes on the bottom that sink into the ground to help with stability. The first picture is of the hinge the second is when the box is in the grass and the third is when the box is folded. This is NOT a permanent enclosure. It is used so my hatchling can get some fresh grass and sunshine for about 1 hour a day. I am going to build a permanent outdoor enclosure this winter when the weather is better. It was too hot this summer to work in the backyard. :)

That's genius! Do you put a screen on top? Do you mind if I copy this design once my hatchling outgrows the basking/soaking tub I got for him/her?
 

edricivan

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Thank you everyone for the advice! The canopy for my enclosure is done. I'll be using a glass tank the first year, it was just easier to acquire. Coco peat, lamps are also ready. Getting the little one tomorrow.
 

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