Outdoor Heated Tortoise House (Oregon style)

Levi the Leopard

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A few years ago I built a mini version of @Tom 's heated tortoise house. Seen here:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/leopard-tort-house.90297/

It worked very well and I couldn't have done it without the tips from TFO. However, after the move from CA and enduring 3 winters here in Oregon (not to mention a growing tortoise) it was clear that I needed to make a new one with some modifications for my climate.

I started by assembling the frame. I used 2x3s and the house dimensions are 4' long x 3' wide x 2' tall. I would have liked to do a 4x4 for the extra space and less scrap wood BUT I needed it to fit through my yard gate and be manageable for me to move.

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I attached the exterior siding next.
Here is where I made the first change. The flat roof worked in sunny SoCal but between Medford's rainy days and being covered in 2ft of snow this past winter (which made me quite nervous..) I decided to give it a slanted roof. It took me some time to figure out exactly just how to do that though. I'm a stay at home mom NOT a handy man :rolleyes: and yeah maybe I cried a few times...But eventually I figured it out. Ha!

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Last time I used the rigid foam insulation boards. This time I bought a roll of the "puffy stuff". (See, I'm proving my point that I really don't know what I'm doing lol) Then I attached the inner plywood walls.

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I caulked everything. Every crack, inside and out, before insulation and after with an exterior seal and bond "something-something" type of caulk. I wanted to ensure my walls stayed sealed and the insulation protected.
I also painted the interior with an exterior paint to protect the plywood from moisture caused by the damp substrate and humid air.

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Mid painting, my 7 year old checking out the doorway.
I used a 2x8 to frame where the oil filled radiator will sit and a 2x4 scrap piece as a shelf for the thermometer/hydrometer.

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The paint was allowed to dry for a full week before I continued working on it.

Next I painted the exterior using the Valspar Storm Coat exterior paint and primer. As much as I loved the green color I had used to paint his first house, I couldn't stand to waste this red paint. I built a chicken coop this spring and after painting that, still had most of the gallon left. So, a matching coop and tort house it is!
I started laying down vinyl flooring and used hooks for the pooper scooper and brush.

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I added 3 overlapping layers of clear vinyl strips in the doorway, finished the flooring and added lots of caulk where the tiles connect. It's ugly, I know. Did you know that the clear caulk starts off white and then dries clear? Well, white caulk also starts off white but then it dries white. LOL. I thought I was using the clear caulking tube until I was practically finished. Oops. Oh well. If there is ever a next time, I'll double check the label! It's going to be covered with damp substrate anyway. So, I only lost a little bit of sleep over it.....grrr..

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I decided to break down his current house since I'm almost done with the new one. It's super hot here right now so I can take advantage of the weather for this transition.
Levi said goodbye to his old flooring...
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Most of his old house (the unpainted parts) was burned in our 4th July campfire. :D and the goodies were moved over to the new house. I shingled the roof and am so close to being done!

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This week I'll add the weather stripping, attach the roof and door with hinges then move it to the backyard.
The tort door will have roof shingles and open upwards like an awning. The ramp style door and wet Oregon ground didn't get along very well. :rolleyes:
Oh and I'll be using a hole saw drill bit to feed my power cord in at the bottom rather than taking it up and over the wall.
I plan on giving him a light and feeding station before winter comes and a greenhouse is still on my wish list. ;)

Until I get this thing finished, Levi is sleeping in a tote in the garage. The temps are fine so I told him to pretend he's camping ;)

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More pics upon completion!

Thanks for looking and I hope these tips can help anyone else crazy enough to keep an African tortoise in a climate with cold seasons. :tort: :cool:
 

wellington

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Very good job Heather. Your not a handy man. Your a handy woman and we can do it all!!!
The only thing I hope you knew before possibly doing. The puffy insulation can not be compacted very much at all in order for it to do the job it was meant to do. Hopefully yours was thin enough that it didn't get squished too much.
Btw, I am a handy woman, do most my own builds, maintenance, etc. I was a landlord, I had to do stuff. I still will use the unprofessional terms, like puffy stuff or the pink stuff with the pink panther. Doesn't mean we can do the job.
 

Len B

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Very Nice House,If you liked the ramp type door all you have to do is put something nonporous like ceramic tile on the ground where the open door meets the ground. I have that same wet soil problem here on the east coast. You didn't mention insulating the floor. The only problem using fiberglass insulation that may arise is if it gets wet it looses insulation efficiency. Another thing I do is put vinyl flaps like you have on the inside, on the outside also. Actually Walkers house has 4 sets of flaps during winter because his door stays open 24/7 unless we are getting unusually super cold windy weather, or they are calling for deep snow. I think you did a fine job imitating a handy man and what you did should work fine for Levi.
 

Levi the Leopard

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I admire your tenacity and determination. And the house is nice too!

Let us know how that insulation works in this application. I've never used it before.
Thanks.

I was excited about this insulation until I read what Barb wrote about it. Is it ever possible to build something and NOT have regrets over something?
The puffy insulation can not be compacted very much at all in order for it to do the job it was meant to do. Hopefully yours was thin enough that it didn't get squished too much.

Nope, didn't know this. It's not like, crazy squished but its not super loose and fluffy inside there either. Fingers crossed.

Very Nice House. You didn't mention insulating the floor. The only problem using fiberglass insulation that may arise is if it gets wet it looses insulation efficiency. . I think you did a fine job imitating a handy man and what you did should work fine for Levi.

Thank you.

Yes, the fiberglass insulation is in the floor, too. Hopefully the thick caulking, painted surface and short legs the house sits on will prevent issues.

I like the outside flap idea (cuz I leave the door open everyday regardless of weather) but the insulated door is designed to close and fit inside the opening. Not sure how I could achieve that now. Any ideas?

 

Markw84

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Thanks.

I was excited about this insulation until I read what Barb wrote about it. Is it ever possible to build something and NOT have regrets over something?


Nope, didn't know this. It's not like, crazy squished but its not super loose and fluffy inside there either. Fingers crossed.



Heather - no worries! that is a myth about compressing fiberglass (squishy) insulation. It still will insulate perfectly. The thickness you compress it will change it's insulating value (R-value) depending upon the thickness it is compressed. I assume you probably used a R11 insulation which is made to go into a wall made of 2x4's. A 2x4 wall is actually 3 1/2" thick and the insulation gives an R value of 8.9 at 3 1/2". You have yours compressed to 1 1/2". So it will still work perfectly well, but will have an R value of 6.1 at that thickness. The rigid foam @Tom and I use has an R value of 5.7. So your squishy stuff as you installed it has a better insulating value!. Good job!
 

Levi the Leopard

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Heather - no worries! that is a myth about compressing fiberglass (squishy) insulation. It still will insulate perfectly. The thickness you compress it will change it's insulating value (R-value) depending upon the thickness it is compressed. I assume you probably used a R11 insulation which is made to go into a wall made of 2x4's. A 2x4 wall is actually 3 1/2" thick and the insulation gives an R value of 8.9 at 3 1/2". You have yours compressed to 1 1/2". So it will still work perfectly well, but will have an R value of 6.1 at that thickness. The rigid foam @Tom and I use has an R value of 5.7. So your squishy stuff as you installed it has a better insulating value!. Good job!

Thanks Mark this is good news :) Levi will stay warm and I don't have to re do the house!
 

Levi the Leopard

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Last night I installed the light fixture and cut the hole for the power cord.
This morning I attached the tort door.

It's too hot to work during the day so ill try and finish the last details tonight or tomorrow morning.
 

Levi the Leopard

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Perfect! So will they be able to say outdoors year round?

My 5 year old leopard tortoise has lived outside, full time here in Oregon for 3 years.

He has the entire backyard to himself. It has a secure fence along the entire perimeter and I've placed safety boards at each door/gate. (The safety board is a 2x8 secured along the bottom of the door opening so even if the door gets left open, he can't escape)

He eats the lawn, weeds and occasionally I throw him piles of good foods I harvest from the neighbor's yards.

He has 2 water sources, a basking rock along the south facing fence, plenty of shade and of course, his heated house.

The house stays around 80°F all year long and by using damp substrate I can keep a moderate to high humidity levels inside.

His tort door is opened everyday, regardless of weather. He comes out to eat and goes in to warm up. He puts himself away every night and I lock his door to keep out any night predators.

On snow or cold, rainy days he gets served "breakfast in bed". A pile of food placed inside his house. ;)
I've added a light fixture to this new house to be used on those days.

I brought 3 leopard tortoises to Oregon with me and quickly realized that I wasn't up to the challenge and expense of keeping multiple torts in a cold climate. I sent 2 off to other TFO ers in TX and AZ and feel much better about just keeping the 1.
I'm sure he'd prefer to live in a warmer state but I give him the best life I can. The 3 months of winter are the hardest because I have to feed and soak him but the rest of the year, it's pretty easy.
 

Levi the Leopard

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So close to the finish line and I hit a bump in the road.

The weather stripping is sticking to the painted underside of the roof. It's had over 2 weeks (maybe even 3) to dry/cure plus I sanded the surface that would touch the stripping 6days ago. But after only 5 minutes of contact, it was stuck! I removed the lid and had to peel the stripping off.

It left behind this residue:

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I'll either add weather stripping to both surfaces (they won't stick to each other, will they?) Or....what other option do I really have?

The house is in place but I have to add the night lock to the door and fix this roof issue.

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I'm not a fan of the door. I think it's ugly although it'll be functional...but I'm sooo done with this project before it's even done...So ugly it will stay.
 

Markw84

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Put some powder - like baby powder on the weatherstripping and work it in a bit. It should take all the "stick off it. I always have to do that with weatherstripping that closes against a painted surface.
 

Markw84

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@Team Gomberg

Heather - is that bulb just for light photoperiod? I assume the heater takes care of heat. I like to have light in my night boxes too to maintain a photoperiod despite maybe not opening the door some days 'til later. I have trouble with overheating here on warmer days if I use an incandescent. Amazing how much heat they add to an insulated enclosure on a day that is already 80° or above. I use the screw - in LED bulbs now. Brighter, better color balance, WAAYYYY less energy, and practically NO heat! Will screw into the same fixture you have.
 

Zackius

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Heather- I am getting ready to get a night box built and am intrigued with your design of the door as I live in New Orleans, La. and also worried about the rain aspect.
You state it looks ugly but if it is functional...then it may work for those that live in rainy climates.

I do have a question. Did you attach any 2 x 4 's underneath the box to keep it slightly elevated off the ground?

By the way....you did a fantastic job on this project!!
 

Levi the Leopard

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@Team Gomberg

Heather - is that bulb just for light photoperiod? I assume the heater takes care of heat. I like to have light in my night boxes too to maintain a photoperiod despite maybe not opening the door some days 'til later. I have trouble with overheating here on warmer days if I use an incandescent. Amazing how much heat they add to an insulated enclosure on a day that is already 80° or above. I use the screw - in LED bulbs now. Brighter, better color balance, WAAYYYY less energy, and practically NO heat! Will screw into the same fixture you have.

Ok I'll try the baby powder tip. Thanks!

Yes, the light fixture is for providing light only BUT the bulb in there is just for me right now. Because of the heat, I'm working on the house at night and I'm using the light :) when it's all done, I'll switch out the bulbs :) :tort:
 
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