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My little leopard tortoise is blowing bubbles out of her nose :-/ should I be worried? How should I go about treating it?
Nose bubbles :(
- Thread starter countrygirlcolorado
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Is this what she is experiencing:
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/commondisease.html#Respiratory
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/commondisease.html#Respiratory
Oh! Sounds like a RI. Read what Dannel sent you and compare that with what you are experiencing. What are the temps of your enclosure? If the hide is humid but cold, that's the problem. Keep the enclosure heated around 85-90 degrees inside the hide. Keep water nearby; but, having the tort warm will help with the RI. If he/she doesn't seem to get better and is not eating or drinking, I would take it to the vet. It may need some antibiotics. Keep us posted.
Is she still eating? That's the important question. Most of the time the culprit is humidity and enclosure has gotten too cold. So here is what to do. Bump your temps up.warm soaks. Make sure she is still eating. See how that goes. Give it a week or so then if she doesn't get any better then I would say go to the vet. But my suggestion would be to make sure that you see a qualified herp. Vet. Keep us posted..
All good info stated above. The cause for this "tortoise cold" is usually a spike in temps, and its very common around this time of year where it may be warm during the day turn the lights of the cage is warm, then super cool at night, "oh no need to turn the heat bulb on". Its pretty common. Sometimes it can happen when you spray the enclosure down and the substrate does not dry out completely and is a wet or damp cold substrate in which the enclosure floor is where the animal is at night getting cool but the bulb is "warm and feels warm inside the enclosure. Measure the substrate temperature at night and morning, and if spraying the enclosure down try to do it middle of the day or warmest parts of the day so it has sufficient time to dry out. heating pads work great to alleviate the damp or wet substrate. The best way to rid of this is to make it warm and constantly warm. For a leo i would go with 85 minimum all around enclosure ambient. its ok it one side gets hotter but the ambient needs to be 85 minimum, even the substrate. Soak once a day in warm water (about 93 degrees) you can also put some additives in the water to help boost the electrolytes in your little guy, like canned carrots, canned pumpkin, canned squash, canned mainly for the juices. Should be ok if gets worse will need some veterinarian care.
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She is eating great, she gets really active at night. The temp in the enclosure right now is 86 with a 65% humidity. I actually leave the heat lamp on all the time because I think she is to small to be kept warm by a night heat lamp, they don't seem very warm
Thats a good temp. Check the substrate temp with a probe thermometer, If its pretty cool like low 70s high 60's and semi damp, adding a heating pad will help alot.
countrygirlcolorado said:
Have you tried a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) for your nighttime heating?
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I haven't tried a CHE I have thought about it though. I just keep her basking light on her all the time, I need to go to the store anyway so ill try to buy a CHE. Last night she came out on her own to eat and drink, I think that's a really good sign. Temps staying right around 85 with a humidity around 45-50
Have the bubbles stopped? Please keep us updated on his condition.
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Great news. I guess the warmer temps did the trick.
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