New Red foot owner. Any help appreciated!

jjrene1991

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Hey Everyone! We just got our 3 month old red foot. We have them in a 50 gal sterlite bin. We heard something about the enclosure needing good air circulation? Is that true? We currently have the bin enclosure in our closet with the lid off and doors wide open. Our thermometers are coming in in 2 days. How do I keep the cool side cool for my little guy? Our basking light is top notch and I don't want the enclosure getting to warm. Any advise is appreciated!
 

Toddrickfl1

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Hey Everyone! We just got our 3 month old red foot. We have them in a 50 gal sterlite bin. We heard something about the enclosure needing good air circulation? Is that true? We currently have the bin enclosure in our closet with the lid off and doors wide open. Our thermometers are coming in in 2 days. How do I keep the cool side cool for my little guy? Our basking light is top notch and I don't want the enclosure getting to warm. Any advise is appreciated!
Your best option is a fully enclosed chamber. You don't need any ventilation. You also really don't want a cool/warm side. You want to aim for 82-86ish thru out the enclosure. You'll want to get a thermostat to hook your heat source up to. You can set it to the desired temperature and it will cut off the heat source when it gets too hot. Redfoots don't really need a basking spot either and having one could contribute to Pyramiding in youngsters.
 

ZEROPILOT

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Redfoot often don't require a basking light. Both because they don't bask much and because they are very sensitive to harsh lights.
One central CHE or two smaller ones toward each end of a longer Closed Chamber work great on a thermostat for warmth without bright light day and night. And a single T5 HO strip UVB supplies 100% of both uvb and 12 hours of daytime light.
I'm curious as to what type of "top notch" light you speak of.....And I'm hoping a pet shop didn't sell you an expensive and downright terrible MVB bulb.
 

jjrene1991

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Redfoot often don't require a basking light. Both because they don't bask much and because they are very sensitive to harsh lights.
One central CHE or two smaller ones toward each end of a longer Closed Chamber work great on a thermostat for warmth without bright light day and night. And a single T5 HO strip UVB supplies 100% of both uvb and 12 hours of daytime light.
I'm curious as to what type of "top notch" light you speak of.....And I'm hoping a pet shop didn't sell you an expensive and downright terrible MVB bulb.
It's actually an infrared heat projector. So it won't get extra light. Then a uvb light T5 HO 5.0 that spans the length of the tank.
 

ZEROPILOT

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It's actually an infrared heat projector. So it won't get extra light. Then a uvb light T5 HO 5.0 that spans the length of the tank.
An IR is great for keeping fries hot. But is absolutely overkill for a Redfoot tortoise.
It will be super desicating to the shell and will become a death ray if the poor tortoise manages to flip upside down in it's vicinity.
It will also zap humidity from the entire enclosure.
If it's all you have for now, swap it out for a standard household 60 watt incandescent light bulb until you can replace it with something more suitable. A standard incandescent bulb will put out good heat in a pinch and the light itself isn't harsh.
The good news is that your UVB light is perfect!
 

jjrene1991

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An IR is great for keeping fries hot. But is absolutely overkill for a Redfoot tortoise.
It will be super desicating to the shell and will become a death ray if the poor tortoise manages to flip upside down in it's vicinity.
It will also zap humidity from the entire enclosure.
If it's all you have for now, swap it out for a standard household 60 watt incandescent light bulb until you can replace it with something more suitable. A standard incandescent bulb will put out good heat in a pinch and the light itself isn't harsh.
The good news is that your UVB light is perfect!
What do you suggest for heat then?
 

jjrene1991

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An IR is great for keeping fries hot. But is absolutely overkill for a Redfoot tortoise.
It will be super desicating to the shell and will become a death ray if the poor tortoise manages to flip upside down in it's vicinity.
It will also zap humidity from the entire enclosure.
If it's all you have for now, swap it out for a standard household 60 watt incandescent light bulb until you can replace it with something more suitable. A standard incandescent bulb will put out good heat in a pinch and the light itself isn't harsh.
The good news is that your UVB light is perfect!
For the 5.0 uvb, how far from the substrate should it be? We have ot on the back wall 12 in. From the substrate. We have the heat on one side and the opposite side stays at about 75
Is it aiming downward?
If it's a T5 5.0, 12" sounds about correct.
Yes aiming downward. My only concern is he likes to hang out in the shaded part of the tank away from the light. Will he still get sufficient exposure to the uvb he needs if he doesn't spend time directly under it?
 

ZEROPILOT

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For the 5.0 uvb, how far from the substrate should it be? We have ot on the back wall 12 in. From the substrate. We have the heat on one side and the opposite side stays at about 75

Yes aiming downward. My only concern is he likes to hang out in the shaded part of the tank away from the light. Will he still get sufficient exposure to the uvb he needs if he doesn't spend time directly under it?
Yes
The general thinking is that RF need a little less UVB exposure and do more D3 absorption from the diet.
(A correct and varied diet)
 

jjrene1991

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Yes
The general thinking is that RF need a little less UVB exposure and do more D3 absorption from the diet.
(A correct and varied diet)
We intend on varying his diet more when he's a bit bigger. We put of some fruit with his greens and a mushed up pellet for protein ever once on a while. He seems to only want the greens. We also have D3 and calcium supplements to put in his food.
 

jjrene1991

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Yes
The general thinking is that RF need a little less UVB exposure and do more D3 absorption from the diet.
(A correct and varied diet)
So we closed the sterlite bin we have with the lid that came with it. The cut part of it put for the heat fixture. The humidity is not staying up. I personally think we were given crap substrate so we're gunna try a different substrate first and sees if that makes a difference. If we can't keep it up even with the top we may get a humidifier
 

Toddrickfl1

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So we closed the sterlite bin we have with the lid that came with it. The cut part of it put for the heat fixture. The humidity is not staying up. I personally think we were given crap substrate so we're gunna try a different substrate first and sees if that makes a difference. If we can't keep it up even with the top we may get a humidifier
What kind of substrate are you using? Try dumping a couple cups of water in one corner of the substrate then replace the lid. Your humidity should go up and stay up after that.
 

jjrene1991

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What kind of substrate are you using? Try dumping a couple cups of water in one corner of the substrate then replace the lid. Your humidity should go up and stay up after that.
So saturate just part of the substrate so the moisture can come from there? How wet should the substrate be?
 

Toddrickfl1

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So saturate just part of the substrate so the moisture can come from there? How wet should the substrate be?
Yes, you'll need to add water for moisture. Your should only have to do this from time to time. Your substrate will be damp, but not soaking wet.
 

jjrene1991

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Yes, you'll need to add water for moisture. Your should only have to do this from time to time. Your substrate will be damp, but not soaking wet.
It is damp but the humidity above the substrate goes down so quickly. I know we have to spray and add water throughout the day. I'm trying to figure out how to keep it up with out having to spay it 5 times a day. I'm currently not working but when I go back to work I want him to be ok while no one is home.
 
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