New owner, have some questions

[Sadie Goldman]

I'm going to get a baby sulcata soon and want to make sure I know everything before bringing him/her home. I've never had a tortoise before so I've been reading forums and care sheets all day but still have some questions. I read the diet sheet posted here http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/sulcata-diet-sheet.64290/ and don't understand where to find these plants. The staple should be grass/weeds so is the grass in my yard ok? There's pesticides sprayed around the edges of the house but not on the grass. Where can I get all these different kinds or weeds/grass? Also I read that tortoises can't be overfed on one site and on another it said to never overfeed, yet I haven't found anywhere that tells me exactly how much to feed/ how often. For now I have a large plastic tub set up, it's about 3ft x 2ft. I have a Zoo Med Reptisun 10.0 UVB Compact Fluorescent Bulb and a 40watt bulb for heat on one end of the cage. I'm testing it out to see how hot it gets. For substrate I want to use cypress mulch mixed with clean soil, but I went to the store and all the soils they had have fertilizers/chicken waste in it. If there's a specific brand someone could recommend that'd be great. Since the cage doesn't have a top I'm worried about not having enough humidity, I would cover the top but I'm also worried there won't be enough air flow. There will be hides on both sides of the cage, will this be enough humidity or should I put a top on so the whole cage is humid? I have a small paint roller tray for water in the cage surrounded by rocks to help keep it clean, and will also soak him every 1-2 days. Is there anything else I should do or know?
I heard that alot of baby sulcatas are very fragile and die(even if you do everything right), at what age will they generally be likely to survive? The store I'm getting one from is very reputable and have many sulcatas ranging from 2-8 months, which age would be best to get?
Thank you so much for your help and support

 

[Alaskamike]

You don't mention where you live. Is it a cold climate ? Makes a difference how you have to house them

I understand the pet store you are getting the tortoise from is reputable , however , that does not mean they know everything about tortoises or how they were started from hatchlings. they buy what is available at a price they will pay. Makes a difference in long term health.

If you are in the US I would strongly suggest getting your tortoise from a recommended source on the forum. Shipping is not hard or harmful to them.

IMO older is better. A yearling raised right has a better success rate.

Why did you chose Sulcata ? They are amazing animals but take an amazing amount of room.

You mentioned a 40 watt bulb for heat - is this a ceramic heat emitter ( CHE) or regulate bulb. They need heat at night and dark.

And yes , closed humid chambers are best and important. There is always air exchange - he won't suffocate. Many ways to do this - just ask and show a picture of what your working with. We can tell you ways to do it.

Food .
Again it depends where you live as to what is available. I raise most of my plants to feed. But I would also recommend Mazuri tortoise pellets as a supplement. Helps with added roughage and nutrients. Plants from a bursary cannot be fed until theve been out of there a year. Plant store use systemic fertilizers that put bug resistant chemicals in the leaves - poison to torts.

Keep asking and reading. Much good info here to help you be successful.

Good fortunes to you

 

[Tom]

First: Hello and welcome! Glad you found us BEFORE you bought one.

Read this BEFORE you buy one from anyone: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/hatchling-failure-syndrome.23493/
If you buy from the wrong source (pet stores are usually going to be the wrong source…), you will have a little ticking time bomb. If you babies first few days and weeks were overly dry (most of them are started far too dry), then whatever the pet store did, and whatever you do, won't matter. If that babies kidneys were killed in its first few days and weeks, before the pet store got it, no amount of money or vet care can save it. Be SURE you are buying from the right source.

Next read this for proper care and housing tips:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/how-to-raise-a-healthy-sulcata-or-leopard-version-2-0.79895/

Here is a thread explaining what is commonly done, and why it shouldn't be done:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Finally, here is a good food sheet:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/

It is fantastic that you are asking all these questions. The problems you are encountering mean that you are understanding all the right concepts. To answer some of your direct questions:
1. A 40 watt bulb is not likely to be enough heat. And you still need night heat. All of this is explained in the care sheet.
2. Take the compact florescent bulb back and return it. Tell them why. A large percentage of them burn tortoise eyes. The pet store will likely tell you that that was an old problem and it has since been fixed. They are wrong, and this would be a good indicator of their level of knowledge on other tortoise topics too. This problem occurs frequently and regularly, and it is NOT fixed regardless of what the people who want your money tell you. Good UV sources are Mercury Vapor bulbs or long tube type florescent bulbs, if you even need indoor UV. This will depend on the climate where you are. Where are you?
3. I would not use any sort of soil for tortoise substrate because you can't know what its made of. I don't like cypress for babies either. Too many sharp, jagged points, and the pieces are often too large. Plus it usually smells "swampy" because that's where it came from. Over the decades of raising hundreds of sulcata babies, I have found fine grade orchid bark to be the best substrate for them. You can get it cheap and in bulk at any garden center.
4. Paint trays are too large, too steep and too slick for babies. Terra cotta plant saucers work best.
5. You are right to be concerned about the open top. Closed chambers work best. Unless you seal the enclosure completely air tight and leave it that way for days, there will be enough air flow. The physics of an open top make simulating the hot humid African rainy season very difficult. Using a closed chamber makes it easy. All this is explained in the care sheet.
6. Babies should be soaked every day for their first six months or so.
7. You will need to grow your own foods, or buy or scavenge it from known safe places like friends, family and neighbors yards that don't use yard chemicals. The pesticides around your house will have to stop right now. Those residues can be deadly and your tortoise will find a way to get into it.
8. When babies are started correctly, and then housed correctly, they are not fragile and they don't die. This is all explained in that first link.

Please read those links and then come back with all your unanswered questions. We are happy to help, and we are not trying to sell you anything.

 

[Sadie Goldman]

I live near sacramento, CA. It can get around 30°F in the winter and highest in summer is 110°. I chose the sulcata because of their personalities and I want one that will get huge, I have plenty of space for one outside for when it gets big.

 

[Tom]

I live near sacramento, CA. It can get around 30°F in the winter and highest in summer is 110°. I chose the sulcata because of their personalities and I want one that will get huge, I have plenty of space for one outside for when it gets big.

If you want a large tortoise with lots of personality, then the sulcata is for you. When they get about 8-10 inches, you can move them outside full time with a heated night box.

 

[Sadie Goldman]

Where are some good sources to buy a sulcata if not the store? Thanks

 

[Tortoisefanatic88]

Where are some good sources to buy a sulcata if not the store? Thanks

http://www.tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Sulcata-babies--Discounted-for-Forum-members.130792/

Here you go. Many members including myself have purchased from Lance. He is always there for you when you have a question or concern and starts his tortoises off right.

 

[Maro2Bear]

Yep, I endorse Lance as a perfect source for a great sully! @Lancecham

Heres a picture of our little guy a month or so ago, hes a few pounds heavier now. (( From Lance as a baby ))

 

[Tom]

Where are some good sources to buy a sulcata if not the store? Thanks

I also highly recommend @Lancecham . We have another member named Austin. His username is @Arizona Sulcata . Then there is Tyler of tortoise supply.com at @TylerStewart . I know he just got in some healthy babies. He's got some older well started babies too.

I have some from time to time, but I sell them out quick. I won't have any for several months. Mine lay in Dec or January and then 3 months to incubate, plus another couple of months to get them well started.

 

[Sadie Goldman]

@Tom I bought a 100 watt uv mercury vapor bulb today- I checked back in 30 mins and it made the basking spot 115 degrees. This was the lowest wattage one I could find, do you have any suggestions? It's about 18in above the floor and I can't raise it any higher

 

[Tom]

@Tom I bought a 100 watt uv mercury vapor bulb today- I checked back in 30 mins and it made the basking spot 115 degrees. This was the lowest wattage one I could find, do you have any suggestions? It's about 18in above the floor and I can't raise it any higher

Why can't you raise it higher? I hang mine by the cord so I can adjust them as much as I need. They also make lamp stands that are adjustable.

You could also use a regular flood bulb on a rheostat for basking heat and light and a long tube for UV and light, instead of the MVB.