New Forum Member...Brand spankin' new parents to a {sick} baby sulcata...Any advice?

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danielledelynn

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Hi everyone!!!

Two weeks ago from yesterday, my boyfriend and I bought a baby sulcata from someone on Craigslist. My boyfriend has had hands on experience with several different kinds of tortoises growing up and we had a great deal of interest in raising one together for a while, so we decided we'd buy the baby sulcata when we found the ad online. The woman we got him from swore he was in "great tip-top health", but when we got him home and settled in to his new "container", it didn't take us very long to see that he was pretty far from being in good health. The little man's (too early to tell its sex, but we're referring to it as a male, and we named him Buddy, hence the username, lol...) shell is very soft, and from the moment we took ownership of him, even before that at the previous owner's home, his little beady eyes were glued shut. It appeared as though he was trying to open his eyes, as if he wanted them open, but just couldn't. After a good 24 hours of letting him rest and "do his own thing" we noticed he didn't move very much at all from where we left him in his container...and he had no appetite.

Oh, I suppose I should mention what we're keeping him in, as far as as his container goes...He's in a clear 40-quart size tote from WalMart (the kind you'd put Christmas/Holiday gift wrap in...), alfalfa hay substrate, two log-replica "hides", and a heat lamp-- We've been keeping the basking zone between 90-95 degrees. But this is where I'm sort of looking for advice. We've read several different temps for the basking temperature online for babies and the guy who owns the pet store near where we live said to keep the basking temp around 85-90, and no more than that. He said any higher than 90 in the basking temp, and his little guys don't move around much, and that it makes them lose their appetite. But other sites will say to keep the basking temp as high as 105 or so. I'm sure each degree added does affect them differently, I just wish I knew what is THE BEST basking temp / cool zone temp to keep the little guy at, without cookin' him or freezing him...

My boyfriend and I took him to a highly recommended vet in our area last Wednesday (we had to wait a full week before that vet could get us in for an appointment, but we heard he's like the best of the best in our area for herpetelogical stuff, so we decided it was going to be worth the wait). The vet told us what we already knew, in regard to his shell being soo soft and having little to no movement and appetite-- that Buddy has a very severe calcium deficiency. The vet gave him a high dose (don't know the exact amount, but he said it was a good strong dose for his size) of calcium, injected into his little back leg. Then the vet inspected his eyes, which were still glued shut. At that point, only every once in a great while, Buddy could open his left eye for a short period of time, but not his right eye at all. The vet then squirted both of his eyes with some water-pique device, to get any impurities out that might have been in there, and to see if squirting his eyes would help them to open. It helped with the left eye, but did absolutely nothing for the right one. The vet then somehow pried open Buddy's beak-like mouth, very fast and easily! Looked inside for infections and discolorations, but he said it looked free and clear in there. He sent us home with a small bottle of antibiotic eye drops (a few drops in each eye, a couple times a day), and a small bottle of liquid calcium syrup with a few syringes. The vet said to give Buddy 3mL of this liquid calcium 2x a day until the bottle of syrup is gone. Sure, that sounds easy-peasy, and the vet made it look like a piece of cake as fast as he got his fingers to open Buddy's mouth...But when my boyfriend and I tried it at home, umm....well, apparently the vet can make it look easy because he's a professional. It's been almost a week since that vet visit, and my boyfriend and I have only been successful in getting Buddy's beak-mouth open for the liquid calcium just a few times. It's soo hard to do-- he's so little that he sucks his head and arms inside of himself because he's scared and confused, and when we do get a decent grip on his little head to get his mouth to pop open with our fingernail (we do it very gently, trust me...), he slides from under our fingers and retreats back into his shell. It's very frustrating because we know he needs to swallow this stuff to make him feel better (the vet said it could take up to, if not more than a full month before the calcium injection he gave him goes fully into effect)...but to him, he sees it as torture. There's no other way to get it in his mouth than to pry his beak-mouth open. He eats soo very little (only tiny, tiny bites when my boyfriend lures him around the living room floor with different veggie slices and greens) when he gets small bursts of energy, which only happens every few days. Does anyone have any experience with giving their baby liquid medicine like this, on how to successfully get their mouth to open?

Also, when we got Buddy, the lady said he was "several months old", but when we were at the vet's, I happened to ask how old he thought Buddy was. He said 6-8 weeks at most. He was weighed before we left, he weighed in at 63 grams.

The eye drops seem to be helping his eyes--He can now open both eyes, but sometimes they still seem to be "glued" shut, but on the bright side, they do both open for a while, especially right after giving him the drops.

It seems like his energy comes in small, short little blasts, since the calcium injection was given last Wednesday. When we notice he gets a little burst of energy, we take him out of his "container" and set him on the living room floor (carpeted) and he roams all over and this is usually when his appetite sparks up for a few minutes. Shortly after, he falls asleep mid-roam, and we set him back in his home.

I forgot to mention, we do soak him regularly. Not sure if there is such a thing as "over-soaking" him, but we soak him 2-3x a day, for about 15 minutes each soak, and every time, he seems to love it. He drinks a lot during each soak (I see this as a good thing, since he's not eating all that much)...and then poops almost every single time in his soaking container....which is another confusing thing. How does he keep pooping when he's not really taking that much food in? Unless he's eating while we're at work...Also, after his soakings, that also seems to be when he's most perky and energetic.

I apologize for our first post on this forum being so long-winded, I just wanted to let you know all the details of our little man, who we love dearly, but are also worried about, since the vet did say a lot of sulcatas die early on, they just "don't make it"...

By the way, I had been looking at different tortoise forums over the past few days, but I finally decided to join this one because it seems to be the best rated & recommended among all the forums out there!

We are Buddy's Parents: Danielle and Nick...and we love Buddy very much and look forward to hearing from any/all of you!
 

goodsmeagol

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I can not be of MUCH help at all...
But for the eyes, I will just tell you a little about my Russian Torts eye problems.

I noticed his eye would stay shut(you used the term glued shut) especially after him taking a nap or sleeping. After eye drops and all the works, his eyes were fine, until I stopped the treatment.
I then changed the substrate to soil/coir and it took him about a week to stop keeping it closed and protecting it.
I think it stays shut because of 'sleep' or tears that dry out around the eye.
And changing the substrate fixed them up very nicely.

I hope that yours' eye were a problem only because of a poor substrate, and it took a week or 2 to get better for me, so good luck with the eye drops. Hopefully after they are done, and he has been on proper substrate for a while, hell be good to go!

Now I do not have a Sully, but for my tort I had to give him Baytril oral, the vet said to drip it onto the corner of the mouth and have some seep into the mouth that way, I did not like it, had no clue how much he was actually getting.
So I put the dosage of baytril on some greens and watched him eat it with the liquid on top like a cup.

Yours is not eating? This is a novice bit of advice:
He pulls his head in when you try and open his mouth, I would expect this.
When i had to help a friend trim a beak, I waited for the head to be all the way out, and gently but firmly held the base of the skull so he was unable to retreat. Any of the more experienced owners agree with that as a way to get the mouth open for meds?

I am a new tort owner, so please take what I say for what it is, probably half wrong, but I hope it helped some.
 

terracolson

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I am big at soaking them with the vitamins in the water...

Not sure if the calcium can be absord through the skin..I would look into that...

You could try different soaks every now and then....

Maybe some good bird vitamins, maybe soaking him in some baby food that has good vitamins (carrots) ... Of course he will need to be cleaned really good..
 

Tropical Torts

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I am not an expert on sulcatas even thought I have one and have spent countless hours researching them. Any way the first thing I would recommend is your changing the subsrate from alfalfa because it is high in protein and stays very dry. Change to either cypress mulch or a mixture of choir and soil. Do you have a UV bulb? I dont think you mentioned one in the original post or maybe I just missed. Any way they definitly nead that. Back to the substrate, I use cypress mulch for mine and the reason behind it is because the mulch hold moisture and help retain a humid environment.
Does the tote you are keeping him in have high walls? If so I would recommend building him a tortoise table (plans for building one can be found in the enclosure section of the forum). A tort table provides more room to roam instead of letting him wander in your house because he could find some piece of trash and he could try to eat it. Another benefit of the tort table is the lower walls because it allows better air circulation.

I hope what I have said will help you out with your Buddy. Good Luck! And I hope you find a more experienced person to answer more questions.
John
 

Yvonne G

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Hi Danielle and Nick:

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to the forum!!

If he's pooping, he's eating! Yea!!!

Here's some reading material:

http://www.sulcata-station.org/pdf/hatchfail.pdf
 
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Maggie Cummings

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Hi and welcome to the forum. Do what John says and get some cypress mulch from Home Depot or Petco. You want to have a moist substrate to prevent pyramiding. Soaking once a day is enough and put some bird vitamins in just 3 or 4 drops. Get a UVB light and a better substrate and he needs a hide so that he feels secure when he sleeps. Get a soft towel and wrap him up and carry him around with you for a few hours. That keeps him awake and creates a bond with you. Sometimes I think sick babies drift off to death when they sleep too long. They stay asleep and time passes and they just stop breathing. So I carry sick babies around with me. That makes them stay awake. I would also get a tube of Terramycin eye ointment. For now wet a Q-tip and rub his eyes gently. I use baby oil but that probably makes their vision blurry...but that's what I do, welcome to the forum we will help you all we can...
 

TortieGal

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Hi and welcome to the forum, I just wanted to add you should go buy some spring mix (organic) you can usually find it with the packaged salid mixes. It's great to feed young ones. Post some pictures of his home we love pictures. And I would change that substrate ASAP. When I had to give my Sulcata meds I would take a syringe and squrit it in a piece of squash that I cut up and boiled till soft. He would eat it right up no force feeding. I heard pumpkin works well two.Good luck, keep us posted.
 

danielledelynn

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Here are a few pics we took of Buddy a few days before he was seen by the Vet. As you can see, his eyes are shut in most of these pics. In the next set of pics (I just took them about an hour ago), you can see how much he's improved since his first visit with the Vet and getting some medicine in him.
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And here are the pics I took of Buddy about an hour ago this evening. This was about 10 minutes after I gave him some of the eye drops in each eye (they seem to be helping), and Nick and I have been getting the liquid calcium onto his lips, and he seems to be licking it off the corner of his mouth (we're so glad he's getting it in him, any way possible!)...

As you can see, he's starting to look a little healthier already! We learned last night that he LOVES yellow-- anything yellow! So I picked some dandelions from our yard and he is so curious, just follows the yellow around the room. He's getting a little more of an appetite with each day that goes by since he was first at the vet's last Wednesday, which is great. Tomorrow, (since Nick and I both have the day off) we'll get rid of the alfalfa hay substrate and try that mulch you all suggested; hopefully that helps with his eyes too.

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I forgot to mention the UVB lighting as someone had mentioned here in an earlier post. The lady included a UVB light with a heat lamp built into it, made by R-Zilla, but since we have him in the plastic tote (the walls are not very high, I think that's okay for now since he's so tiny) as his enclosure, there's no clamp-like structure for it. We've been propping it against items in his tank, but are really worried that it's going to melt the plastic tote. This right here is the exact model of what we have: R-Zilla UVB Light & Heat Combo although the heat lamp is burned out, so we use a separate heat lamp/basking area and have it clamped to our dvd/bookshelf, right next to his enclosure. Does anyone have a better suggestion for what to buy for the UVB light? Or a suggestion on how to make a make-shift clamp for this device?
 
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DonaTello's-Mom

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Your baby's eyes do look much better. It's obvious your trying really hard to be good tortie parents. If you could post some pictures of your enclosure, the members can make suggestions for helping you out. They're great about helping..................I do have one suggestion. I would not let him 'roam around' on the floors. The temps are different at ground level and you could be exposing him to dirt, germs and whatevers on the floors. (I'm not saying your floors are dirty but some stuff we can't see) Just my opinion. ..:)
I use a Zoo-med power sun. Heat and UVB in one bulb.....
http://www.petco.com/product/12129/Zoo-Med-Powersun-UV-Self-Ballasted-Mercury-Vapor-UVB-Lamp.aspx
I use this clamp lamp for it.....
http://www.petco.com/product/106745/Zoo-Med-Deep-Dome-Clamp-Lamp.aspx?CoreCat=RepAmp_Prodi1
Hope this helps...;)
 

Yvonne G

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If the light is too close to the tortoise it could be causing the eye swelling problems.
 

TortieGal

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Make sure you don't use any coil bulbs. They hurt their eyes and can cause blindness. I would also try feeding some dandelion or something with vit A.
 

Kristina

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Broad leaf plantain is a great source for Vit. A. It is a very common weed that grows all over the US and you should be able to find some, just make sure there are no pesticides or dogs in the area.

Chop it small and mix it with his other greens.

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Stephanie Logan

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Well, Danielle and Nick,

You certainly decided to jump into the fire feet first with your little problem child...I hardly had time to reach for my tissue box before those "after" shots cheered me up! Buddy looks like he is firmly on the road to recovery. Read everything you can on "Sulcata Central", where there are plenty of threads about mis-kept Sulcata hatchlings, and follow all advice you see from maggie3fan, Tom, and emysemys. Congratulations to you for bringing your wee tyke into the TFO fold...he'll be in good hands here. ;)

Looking forward to seeing the photos of Buddy one year from now, when all is well with him...:D
 

danielledelynn

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We made it out to Petco this afternoon and ditched the alfalfa hay substrate and went with what most of you recommended to switch to: the coir blend substrate. We also rearranged his food and water dish a bit in the enclosure. He seems to like the soft feel of the coil substrate much better than the course, wirey alfalfa hay.

Here's what his enclosure now looks like - At this point we had just put the substrate in and didn't get a chance to put the food onto the food tray. We tried to give him some squash today for the first time and he LOVED it!! Thanks for the suggestions!

Thanks for the input so far everyone, anything else you could suggest?

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DonaTello's-Mom

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That looks great Danielle! (love your name, my daughter is a Danielle too!) Your baby looks so cute! Your substrate looks a little dry to me, might be my eyes. You really need to wet the coir down good, a spray bottle doesn't cut it. Make sure his 'hide' is nice and moist too. But WOW I'm impressed with how to got your babe set-up so fast, you must have a happy baby! My baby sully loves squash too, I love to watch him eat!
 

TortieGal

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Looks Great! Your doing a good job, it really shows in your little guy. I would feed him off a piece of slate it helps to keep the beak and nails trim. I also like to put one close to right under the basking spot it gets nice and warm. My Sulcata loves to lay on his slate under the light. I take a big cup of water and pour the water in the substrate and mix it up with my hand and make sure I get the substrate inside the hide moist two. I do this under the light area where it drys out fast. Your Tortoise home is looking great!
 

Tom

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Ahh. Now you are on the right track. What kind of bulb is that? Looks much better than what you had. I wonder if that other set-up is the source of your eye problems. That round flourescent might have had the same problem as the coil bulbs.

I agree with Tortiegal. Wet that substrate down. I just pour water onto the hot side and let it disperse on its own. You might also want to add a humid hide box in there to keep the pyramiding to a minimum. Here are some examples:
http://tortoiseforum.org/thread-12542.html?highlight=humid+hide+box

I like to use a flat rock under the heat lamp for basking too. Slate works well. Here's my basic set-up. Its pretty close to what you've done and I've had nothing, but success with it.
http://tortoiseforum.org/thread-13375.html?highlight=basic+enclosure

May I ask, what are your temps? Cool side, warm side, basking spot, night.

Now its time to start working on your outdoor enclosure. Direct sunshine is WAYYY better than anything artificial anyway. 20-30 minutes a couple of times a week will get it done, more is better. Sulcatas need lots of exercise, so a big, safe, outdoor enclosure is a must. I like some thing in the neighborhood of 15x30', but do whatever you can. Kiddie pools from K-mart work great for small tortoises too. I'm going to start a thread on this soon.
 

danielledelynn

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When we changed his substrate to the coir we also changed his bulb to the zoo-med uvb/heat bulb that Donatello's Mom suggested.

We've also soaked the substrate down with water, and I got my hands right into it, kneeding/mashing the water and substrate together like I was making bread or something. It's much more wet almost like damp potting soil, and it seems to be easier for Buddy to walk around on too. His eyes are doing much better, when he's not sleeping, they are open and alert!

As far as temps, during the day, his basking spot is 100 degrees, warm zone is 90 and cool zones range from 75-90 (depending on if he's in the hides or not). At night, his basking spot is 90 or a little less, warm zone is around 80 and the cool zone is 70 or so. He does most of his real basking during the day and goes to a shady/cool spot at night.

Also, as an update on the wee man, when we brought him to the vet's April 21st (almost 2 weeks ago), he weighed 63 grams. Nick and I just borrowed my mom's jewelry scale and as of this morning, he weighs 98 grams! Our little man is putting on some weight, that's a good sign, right?
 
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