I would not let it get below 80, I would maybe keep it 85 on the cool end.
The substrate was plenty damp packed down. The care sheet isn't specific to a sick tortiose
@Yvonne G @TomWhat do you think good temps are when he's sick? Also when he's better what would you think about forest floor as a substrate? I really am not fond of coconut coir. Maybe it's a coincidence but it just seems like he would get irritated by it
It's very frustrating and creating a lot of hardship for my family. No top on the 20 gallon. I thought they need air circulation?
What is "forest floor" - bark?
What do you think good temps are when he's sick? Also when he's better what would you think about forest floor as a substrate? I really am not fond of coconut coir. Maybe it's a coincidence but it just seems like he would get irritated by it
While he's sick, I would keep the temperature 85F over all with no gradient. My favorite substrate is the small grade orchid bark. You can wet it and it doesn't get sour, and if he eats it accidentally, it doesn't cause impaction.
Is that the same as reptibark? And its ok to spray it?
Reptibark is orchid bark. The pet store just charges a whole lot more for tiny amounts compared to what you buy in the hardware or garden stores.
I dampen mine by dumping water on it and spraying too.
Yes. They will dig down into it. I like to dig.Can the babies dig and bury themselves in the Reptibark / Orchid bark ?
Can the babies dig and bury themselves in the Reptibark / Orchid bark ?
After reading everything and being someone who got a healthy baby who got sick and we couldn't figure out why, I'm going to put my 2 cents in. I thought I read that you are measuring temps with a stick on meter. Maybe it's lying to you. When my 7 month old guy was sick, tenting his whole enclosure with foil and keeping is really warm, all be it dry, was the only thing that helped. By really warm, I'm suggesting basking at at least 100, and 80s for the rest. Especially at night, which means being darn sure that wherever in your enclosure he is tucking in at night actually maintains this temp all night. Just ensure you do nice long warm soaks to counteract the inevitable drying effect of higher temps. It is my personal opinion that if you're a newbie without all the right measuring equipment like I was, during the healing period it's ok to forgo humidity for a few weeks as the effect of too cold + damp is far more damaging than a bit dry. Just ensure you soak.
While he's sick, I would keep the temperature 85F over all with no gradient. My favorite substrate is the small grade orchid bark. You can wet it and it doesn't get sour, and if he eats it accidentally, it doesn't cause impaction.
In this case, it would seem that keeping the temperature up would be more important. Cover the top completely at night; 80% covered during the day so the ambient is at least 85 F. with a basking spot of at least 95 F.. High temperatures are always the best first aid for a herp who's sick.
What is "forest floor" - bark?
I would keep ambient at 75-78 at night and 80-85 during the day. I would offer a 100 degree basking site all day too.
"Forrest Floor" is cypress mulch. That is fine. I prefer orchid bark to that though. Coco coir really is the best substrate for small russians. You have to keep it damp, thick and keep hand packing it down. After a week or two it settles in nicely. If you just don't like it, the orchid bark or cypress mulch will work just fine.
After reading everything and being someone who got a healthy baby who got sick and we couldn't figure out why, I'm going to put my 2 cents in. I thought I read that you are measuring temps with a stick on meter. Maybe it's lying to you. When my 7 month old guy was sick, tenting his whole enclosure with foil and keeping is really warm, all be it dry, was the only thing that helped. By really warm, I'm suggesting basking at at least 100, and 80s for the rest. Especially at night, which means being darn sure that wherever in your enclosure he is tucking in at night actually maintains this temp all night. Just ensure you do nice long warm soaks to counteract the inevitable drying effect of higher temps. It is my personal opinion that if you're a newbie without all the right measuring equipment like I was, during the healing period it's ok to forgo humidity for a few weeks as the effect of too cold + damp is far more damaging than a bit dry. Just ensure you soak.
I was in your exact position a few months ago, I think this will help! Good luck!
What I mean is, the lights are on the inside.I don't see why not, as long as it is over the lights and not too air tight of course.