Mr. Bubbles Hydration update

[nanni]

After trying so about everything - even pouring water right in there in her enclosure (we talk about lots of water) and still all in all a hydration level of 30 Percent, I decided to go nuts.

Now Mr. Bubbles is in a smaller Rubbermaid container, located in our basement (hydration is better down there for obvious reasons - and boy can I tell you, Michigan is not really known for Hydration in the colder months ) in a new substrate mix.
I put in topsoil without add ons (hope they really were honest on that since she already tried to EAT it) mixed up with Spagnum peat moss and coco coir and a bit of sand, so the in planted Aloe and selfraised Dandelion seedling are getting enough air. All wet and mushy and just topped by a dry layer of coco coir so he is not getting to cold, while the top soil heats up underneath.
At the moment the warm spot is 85, but its still rising and I have a cold corner with about 70 still - hope to be able to keep that, but figured i rather want him to be to warm with enough humidity then perfect in temp without enough hydration.

As I said, the first thing he did when moving in after a little warm soak was chewing on the substrate. He tried to tackle the Aloe but did thankfully stop right there. Didn't find the Dandelion yet, but is chewing a bit salad.
I keep you posted and thank every one who helped me out and would be thankful for advice either in this posting or per pm if someone knows what else I could do.
N.

 

[ascott]

If your substrate is really wet... I would not let the temps drop below 80 degrees ever....otherwise you are setting your tort up for health issues....

 

[nanni]

If your substrate is really wet... I would not let the temps drop below 80 degrees ever....otherwise you are setting your tort up for health issues....

Yes, I know, but thank you for the reminder. I try my best to avoid any health issues for her.
Nanje

 

[GBtortoises]

I absolutely disagree that the temperatures should not be allowed to fall below 80 degrees when adding humdity to a Hermann's tortoise environment! Temperatures this constantly hot will most definitely result in accelerated growth, humid or not. Hermann's are a temperate climate species who have evolved to be active and function based on a day to night temperature differential of at least15-20 degrees. Night time temperatures for any of the Hermann's subspecies should be no higher than 65 degrees max. Ideally 55-62 is even better with temperatures as low as 50 on a regular basis being fine too. Obviously indoors temperatures as this low are usually difficult to impossible to achieve. But, the temperature should be allowed to drop as low as possible at night.
There is no fear of a Hermann's, Marginateds or Ibera Greeks being exposed to high humidity when temperatures are only in the 50's & 60's. If the temperatures were in the 30's and 40's that would be a different story. Mid 50's to mid 60's is not considered cold for Northern Testudo species. In fact most other Testudo species, including Middle Eastern Greeks and Egyptian tortoises should be exposed to higher humidity levels at night with temperatures in the 62-68 degree range with drier, warmer days as they are in the wild.
By keeping Northern Mediteranean species too warm consistently you are creating a situation where their bodies are constantly active. This over activity causes them to constantly need to consume food. Much more than they typically would. This, along with other captive environmental factors leads to accelerated growth. I have seen the results of Hermann's and other Northern Mediterranean species being kept consistently too warm much too many times and it isn't pretty.

 

[nanni]

Thank you so much for the explanation. That sounds very reasonable and logical and made me realize how much I do not know about Tortoises . So interesting! And I learn every day something new .
N.