Leopard Tortoise my set up any advice

Leothetort*2021

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Hi sorry for long thread but need constructive/advice as a 6 month tort mom. I will post photos of my set up and below what I. have as current care. I'm not totally new on tort care. Have a Hermann's tort (2) experience but I know not the same applies here.

Torty received March 2021

Habit: Custom made plexiglass enclosure with custom cut areas for lighting/heat lamps placement
Basking Lamp/UVB/UVA lamp used is 80W POwersun self ballasted Mercury vapor lamp
Temp during day: basking area: 100 F, Middle of tank: 80 F and Hide area (other end cooler) 75-80F
Temp Night time: 75-80 F at the hide, the rest of tank same (at night i use the CHE and the Humidifier AIRVO2 and use a aluminum foil to cover the openings
Night Time Heat source: Ceramic Heat (CHE) 100W Over Hide area
Humidity: At night utilize Hospital grade 98.6 controlled Airvo2 to keep at 70% with distilled water
Humidity during day: Water bowl/Extra "green" container to hold water and mist periodically during day: range 40-60%
Food source: Fresh Hydroponic grown variety lettuce, Organic lettuce from grocery spring mix, garden mix, grass, dandelion, Mazuri, and Grassland tortoise food, hibiscus flower petals grown personally, flower food toppers, every now and then treat tomato, cucumber, strawberry very very limited.
Supplement: Repti-calcium occassionally, Tortoise block and tort bone
Bedding: Eco Earth Loose coconut fiber sustrate, along with timothy grass
Bathing: 1-2 weekly
Weight: gaining in May 1.9 oz, August 5 oz and Sept 4th he weighted 6.2 oz

Torty eats well, eliminates fine
Shell concerns. Notice one area that it "look" dented in front. Extra scute in. front. No soft spots, underneath appears normal.

Any thoughts on the care or what I need to do better for my torty?
Thanks in advance

Kathy
 

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Leothetort*2021

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Sorry forgot to add regarding photos: Photo with hand is when I received him back in March. The other photos are current
 

ZenHerper

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The extra scute may be contributing to the dent. Merely cosmetic.

But your humidity is too low for a fast-growing youngster. Low humidity is causing the keratin to cure too quickly and to pyramid. This is the most successful care specs:
 

Leothetort*2021

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The extra scute may be contributing to the dent. Merely cosmetic.

But your humidity is too low for a fast-growing youngster. Low humidity is causing the keratin to cure too quickly and to pyramid. This is the most successful care specs:
Low Humidity day or night or both? Got it thank you will increase to 70-80% all times. thank you
 

ZenHerper

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Leos hatch during a wet season...it is humid all the time, and they burrow in damp earth when they want to escape the hot sun.
 

Yvonne G

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We have recently learned that the Mercury Vapor UVB bulbs can contribute to pyramiding because of their desiccating affect on the shell. I have since switched to tube type fluorescent UVB lights like this:

T-5 fluorescent bulb.jpg
 

Leothetort*2021

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Leos hatch during a wet season...it is humid all the time, and they burrow in damp earth when they want to escape the hot sun.
I am trying to keep it humid all the time per suggestion above, but I was told to keep humidity during the day 40-60% and night time 70% prior to my post.
He does go in his hide into a humid condition
 

Leothetort*2021

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We have recently learned that the Mercury Vapor UVB bulbs can contribute to pyramiding because of their desiccating affect on the shell. I have since switched to tube type fluorescent UVB lights like this:

View attachment 333751
Gosh, I was told to get a Mercury vapor style lamp. Grrr..never know what is right anymore.. I will look into this as well. I was just trying to consolidate the UVA/UVB and heat into one lamp if you know what I mean
 

wellington

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Humidity should be 80% always. The MVB is too harsh on the shell and will cause pyra6evdn if everything else is correct. Been there done that.
If it makes you feel better, you are not alone in getting wrong info or even correct info but then it changes. A few years back the MVB was the best and always recommended. Then its been found to be the worst, ugh.
 

Leothetort*2021

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Humidity should be 80% always. The MVB is too harsh on the shell and will cause pyra6evdn if everything else is correct. Been there done that.
If it makes you feel better, you are not alone in getting wrong info or even correct info but then it changes. A few years back the MVB was the best and always recommended. Then its been found to be the worst, ugh.
Thank you all for your help...back to the drawing board. LOL.. will look into the fluorescent and add just a basking area lamp separately
 

Yvonne G

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Here's a different school of thought about 'basking':

I have the T5 fluorescent UVB light and for heat a radiant heat panel (always on). The light's on a timer for 12 hours during the day and the RHP's plugged into a temperature controller that turns it on and off to a set temperature. I don't use a basking light. My closed enclosures are set up to be around 80°F all the time, but if the babies go in the cave where the RHP is the ceiling, they can warm up to 90°F or so. I have seen my group of 7 baby russians lined up under the length of the T5 light, even though the light puts out very little heat. They sense the UVB and 'bask' under the light.
 

Ray--Opo

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Welcome, I know the feeling of thinking I was setting up the enclosure correctly. Only to find out I wasn't. Pet stores give bad advice.
Your temp and humidity gauges will not be accurate. Get a digital thermometer/ humidastat that has wire probes. Also soak your tort everyday for 1/2hr and keep the water warm at all times.
Another tool to get is a infrared temp gun. I put off getting one,but when I finally did. I found out how important it was. Just don't point at any eyes. You can get pinpointed temp readings in your enclosure. Screenshot_20201118-094238_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20201118-094349_Chrome.jpg
 

Ray--Opo

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You can also get a thermometer/humidastat at Lowe or Home Depot. That is a single unit with no wires. That you can place right in the enclosure. That is digital, that might be better because I did have problems with the wires and my tort.
 

Leothetort*2021

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Thank you all very much. I have a made a DIY greenhouse for humidity to stay around 80-90% range at all times. The unit I’m using to generate is a hospital grade humidifier that has a controller that is warm humidity and already have seen big difference. We use this unit on vent patients/Trach treatments.

Temp. I have a digital in the middle of tank now. Will definitely look into the above as suggested. So far the entire tank stays 80F and basking 90-100.

Going to look into the T-5 UV light.
Keep it all coming all your suggestions are awesome and insightful
 

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