Large Enclosure Lighting Strategies

[mperrier100]

Hi All,

I am a soon to be Greek Tort owner and have just gotten my first enclosure (4 by 2 feet). I want to make sure that I distribute the UV rays and heat evenly and I still find the whole "lighting" category slightly confusing.

I know that there is the Zoo Med PowerSun UV 100W Bulb for both UV and heating, but that will direct the rays into only part of the enclosure right? Should I get a strip UV and a heating bulb separately, or get two of those 2 in one bulbs? Also, there is a separate bulb needed for the night time right?

I would absolutely love if someone could help me figure out what lighting will be best for my Greek tort in this 2 by 4 enclosure!

 

[Len B]

I had a problem trying to figure out how to get a light over one of my winter indoor {garage) enclosures, it is near the front of the garage where I could not suspend from the ceiling because of when the door opens it would hit it. I used one of those flag pole holders that are attached to the wall, (usually outside) and hung a double 4 foot tube light down from the wood flag pole, which takes care of the main lighting, The heat from above (CHE and black lights) is near the sides of the enclosure so they are attached from the side walls, they stay on 24 hours a day. This enclosure is 6x7 ft. I use the uvb tube lights in the enclosures instead of the ones that produce heat, I also have a little heat from below that stays between 8 to 12 degrees above the air temp at certain areas in the enclosure. I am not sure this will help you but it may give you different ideas for your setup.

 

[Rogue]

I'd go with either a full-length UVB tube (like a Reptisun 10.0 36" or 48") plus separate basking bulb, or a MVB (Powersun) plus a shorter UVB tube (like a Reptisun 10.0 18") to illuminate the rest of the enclosure. That way your tort is sure to get sufficient UVB wherever he/she likes to hang out during the daytime. I prefer the latter setup because my Greek loves to bask and sleep near the warm end, so I want to make sure she gets a higher quality UVB from the MVB. Also, the UVB tubes should be about between 8" and 18" away from the tort.

As far as additional heating, depends on ambient indoor temperatures, height of enclosure, and how much the basking bulb heats up the entire enclosure. My room is fairly warm at 70-73 deg all the time, so I don't use any CHEs at night. During the day my single Powersun give me a nice gradient between 75 and 90 deg along the enclosure, with a basking spot of 95-100 deg. If your room is cool, you can set up a CHE on a thermostat that will kick on day or night to keep at least 1 end near 70.

 

[Spn785]

Your tortoise needs a temperature gradient, so you should have the Powersun at one end facing straight down as a basking spot, this will also keep an area around it a little wrmer and as your tortoise moves to the otherside of the enclosure the temp will drop and your tort can cool off. You can add a Tube UV light over the other end since that won't add heat.

 

[mperrier100]

Okay. So my enclosure is 21" high... I can't make it any shorter unfortunately, and it has a screen top. So maybe I can hang the basking bulb from the grating inside the enclosure (so it's closer to the tort). My room is often cool (eg:65-75 degree's) and not warm throughout the year.

For the UV tube light do you think it should be hung inside as well....I was hoping to use the dome on top of the enclosure, but perhaps that wont be close enough to be effective?

(So, This is what I ultimately need? A UV tube, a basking bulb, and a night time infrared bulb? I need 3 bulbs in total?)

 

[Zamric]

I have a 4'x4.5' enclosure and this is how I have my lights, MVB and heating elements set up.

The long lights are 24" Exotera 10.0 UV bulbs (set at almost 18" off the ground, over 50% of the UV make it to the surface). The double light fixture holds 2x 75w MVB (Mercury Vapor Bulbs for more UVs) and the 2 cages between the 2 differant light bulbs in where the Heat Emitters go... (in the pic I do have a heat emitted in the light socket but that was all a trial and error thing) I also have a heating cable that winds under the substrate of their Humid Hide but you asked about lighting, not heating.

This light set up is in a Twin Enclosure and only half of the set up is over each of the sides

 

[mperrier100]

Hm. That's an interesting set-up you have there. So if at 18" the 50% of the UV makes it to the floor, I should definitely see about hanging my UV bulb inside the enclosure (perhaps 4 inches or so from the ceiling mesh). As for heat, I'm not as concerned about that because it seems an under the tank heater (a heating mat or an in the enclosure heat rock maybe even) seems an option if the bulb alone doesn't do the trick.

Thanks a lot guys! I think I know the two ways I can accomplish my lighting and heating issues. You've been very helpful.

P.S. Zamric <-- I love your Tort's names~

 

[Levi the Leopard]

As for heat, I'm not as concerned about that because it seems an under the tank heater (a heating mat or an in the enclosure heat rock maybe even) seems an option if the bulb alone doesn't do the trick.

A heat rock IS NOT an option to supplement a basking bulb. They can burn the tortoise. You need to make sure your basking bulb can give you the correct basking temperature. Use higher wattage if necessary.

For night time, a CHE is usually preferred to a black light or infrared light bulb. A CHE will give you night time heat and keep it dark. Just like night time should be

 

[mperrier100]

As for heat, I'm not as concerned about that because it seems an under the tank heater (a heating mat or an in the enclosure heat rock maybe even) seems an option if the bulb alone doesn't do the trick.

A heat rock IS NOT an option to supplement a basking bulb. They can burn the tortoise. You need to make sure your basking bulb can give you the correct basking temperature. Use higher wattage if necessary.

For night time, a CHE is usually preferred to a black light or infrared light bulb. A CHE will give you night time heat and keep it dark. Just like night time should be

Thank you for setting me straight. Some info online is confusing after you sift through all of it. I am now planning on a uva/uvb strip, a CHE, and a basking bulb for the enclosure Hope that sounds good (thinking maybe 75Watt?)

 

[Levi the Leopard]

Those 3 lights are exactly what you need.

 

[FLINTUS]

To be honest,all you really need is a decent MVB which has a good UVB output(as spur-thighs need a fair bit of UVB-I believe the powersuns have a poor output compared to some) as that is not a massive area. An MVB will also last longer, up to 2 years in some cases compared to 6 months for the seperate ones so it's cheaper long term.Also, maybe a CHE for night but most keepers here I believe just let it drop to room temps. Where d'you live? Even here in the cold UK, keepers of the testudo genus have their torts out permanetly often in the summer, with a coldframe or a shed at night, not usually heated but there is heat if temps get really cold and then hibernate in winter so you'd only use the indoor enclosure if there is a period of really cold weather.

 

[mperrier100]

To be honest,all you really need is a decent MVB which has a good UVB output(as spur-thighs need a fair bit of UVB-I believe the powersuns have a poor output compared to some) as that is not a massive area. An MVB will also last longer, up to 2 years in some cases compared to 6 months for the seperate ones so it's cheaper long term.Also, maybe a CHE for night but most keepers here I believe just let it drop to room temps. Where d'you live? Even here in the cold UK, keepers of the testudo genus have their torts out permanetly often in the summer, with a coldframe or a shed at night, not usually heated but there is heat if temps get really cold and then hibernate in winter so you'd only use the indoor enclosure if there is a period of really cold weather.

I live in New York (USA). Right now I do not have a backyard but in about 2 or 3 years I hope to (saving to move). My room temps can waiver anywhere from 60 to 80 depending on the season.

As for the UV bulb, I was thinking that a strip would be better than a round bulb, to distribute the rays better in the enclosure. Also, I will buy a CHE. If I end up not needing it for some of the year that's okay. Better to be safe than sorry.

Lastly, I was thinking of getting a "hood" to put the lights in originally, but as I will need to put them in the tank rather than on I'm thinking against that now.

 

[Zamric]

Lastly, I was thinking of getting a "hood" to put the lights in originally, but as I will need to put them in the tank rather than on I'm thinking against that now.

This is how I solved that problem.

I drilled holes (4 of them) and used coat hanger wire to make a "U-Bracket" for the whole fixture to lay in, then secured the wires by simply twisting the the wire on the othere side of the hole.

Doing it like this will leave a large hole on the top of your enclosure. I solved this problen with a piece of Hardwood flooring left over from doing my livingroom. I used a piece of weather stripping around its edges to help maintain the high humidity my leopards need.... your Greek shouldn't need the humidity but you will want to close that hole on top to keep things from falling in.