Just adopted 3 very sick baby desert tortoises. Need help!

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jmu114

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My husband and I own a few red neck sliders but are new to land tortoises. We were looking to adopt a tortoise when our friend offered to give us three baby desert tortoises that belong to someone she knows. We gladly accepted and took them home last night. They came in a 10 gallon tank, a heat lamp and the tank was lined with newspaper which had dried excrements and dried lettuce that looked untouched.

Each of the 3 babies are about 2 1/2 inches in length, their hind legs look shriveled up, and their shells are soft. My initial impression was they were dead. After doing some online research, we replaced the dried lettuce with spring mix sprinkled with small amounts of human calcium tablet. We soaked the babies which seem to give them some life, and turned on the heat lamp.

This morning, I saw one baby taking a few bites of the spring mix and drank some water (other two didn't move from last night's position).

I am very concerned and want to bring them back to health.

This is what I plan to do tonight
1. Change the newspaper lining to something more suitable... some type of soil (what is best?)
2. Buy a UV lamp (can the heat lamp and the UV lamp be on at the same time?)
3. Soak them again in luke warm water.
4. fresh spring mix with thinly sliced carrots and laced with vitamin.

I read on the other thread that babies with soft shells will most likely not make it. I hope we will have exceptions here....

If I am doing something wrong, pleaset let me know!! all of your advices will be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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Tom

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Maggies the expert on this. Follow her advice to a T. I'm PM ing her for you.
 

jmu114

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I don't know how to imbed images in a post... so I uploaded it as an attachment on my initial post. sorry for the inconvenience...

Just by comparing photos of other babies online... I think the shell colors of mine look a little off..... is this significant?
 

rwfoss

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Yes, we sound to be in the same boat, with the exception that you have THREE to my one! (I have the other post about the 2-3 inch tort with a soft shell.)

I'll be keeping taps on your post. Wishing you well.
 

dmmj

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Right now I would suggest heat, warm soaks and spring mix, if they reverted to soft shell it is usually a bad sign. If they started out soft and stayed soft then they stand a chance, sunlight will help also. I am hoping this ends up a happy story.
 

Yvonne G

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Here's a copy of a care sheet I wrote several years ago. I'll have to tweak it and update it, but its ok for the basics. Take a look around the forum for caring for hatchlings and see what we're saying about it currently.

CARE OF DESERT TORTOISE HATCHLINGS


Like other tortoises, desert tortoises (Gopherus aggassizi) hatch from their eggs with the help of an “egg tooth” or caruncle on the tip of their snout. They are folded over inside the egg, and their shells do not harden until after they hatch. The shell may remain flexible for a few weeks, but should harden with proper diet and sunlight. After pipping the egg shell, hatchlings may wait inside the egg until the yolk sac is absorbed. If the yolk sac is large when the hatchling leaves its egg, place the hatchling on clean wax paper or a moistened paper towell until the yolk is absorbed. Take care during the first few days to avoid rupturing the yolk sac. A ruptured yolk sac can lead to a hatchling becoming infected, or even bleeding to death.
It is impossible to determine the sex of a new born tortoise from its shape. The plastron (bottom shell) remains flat on tortoises until they are about 10 to 15 years old. If it is a female, the plastron will remain flat; if it is a male, the plastron with become concave (dip in).

HOUSING: A large plastic sweater or blanket box or plastic under-the-bed storage bin or Christmas tree storage bin is suitable for hatchlings as it allows sufficient room for movement and has sides that are high enough to protect them from drafts. Orchid bark, cypress mulch or coconut coir can be used to cover the floor of the habitat. This covering is referred to as “substrate.” Whatever floor covering is used, it must be kept clean. A hide box should be provided for sleeping. Hatchlings should not be placed with larger tortoises or they may be injured.

HEATING & LIGHTING: Hatchlings are best kept at 75-85 degrees F. The tank can be heated to this temperature using a heating pad set on low or an under tank heating pad, or a light bulb placed above the tank. The amount of heat generated by these methods will depend upon the size of the habitat, and on the temperature of the room it is located in. Use a thermometer to measure the temperature. A full spectrum fluorescent bulb such as a Vitalite, mounted above the tank will provide some of the elements of sunlight, but will not provide heat. The light should be turned off at night. WARNING: Unless baby tortoises are kept at least at 80 degrees, they WILL NOT eat!

SUNLIGHT: When the temperature is above 70 degrees F the hatchlings should be allowed outside to graze and to bask in the sun as much as possible; however, they must have shade available. They should be placed in an enclosed area covered with chicken wire or similar netting to protect them from birds, cats, dogs, rats and other predators. Check them frequently as they tip over easily. Never put them outside in a glass aquarium: the sun can heat it up like a greenhouse, and hatchlings can succumb to overheating very easily.

FEEDING: Offer a well-chopped variety of foods several times a day, as their intake is small. Hatchlings should be fed a mix of greens, flowers and vegetables. This may include endive, escarole, kale, spinach, green beans, broccoli, romaine, grass, clover, hibiscus and rose flowers and weeds, such as dandelions. Avoid feeding ice-burg lettuce because of its poor nutritional value. Twice a week, sprinkle powdered calcium carbonate on the food, and twice a month sprinkle the food with a vitamin preparation such as Vionate, Reptivite or Superpreen. Hatchlings should be soaked in a dishpan of water at least three times per week. The sides should be high enough that the tortoise cannot climb out, and the water should come halfway up the side of the tortoise so that he can hold his head out of the water without straining. You can leave him soaking for about an hour, but check on him often to be sure he is all right.

HIBERNATION: Most tortoise owners agree that hatchlings should remain active and not be allowed to hibernate for the first two winters. When they do hibernate, keep them at a temperature of about 50 degrees F in a dark area with clean dry leaves or shredded paper into which they can burrow. Check them frequently. If they awaken, they should be soaked in luke warm water and food should be offered.
 
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Maggie Cummings

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I would be very careful with the lighting as they can get dehydrated very easily as they won't move in and out of the heat like they should. I would soak them daily with a few drops of bird vitamins in the water. At this stage I wouldn't follow Yvonne's care sheet on feeding and just offer Spring Mix and I would cut it up into small pieces. If you can find some radicchio to add to the Spring Mix that would really help as they will go for the red stuff. Keep them warm and I hate to say it doesn't sound good but you can't give up on them. Tomorrow buy some strained carrots (baby food) and take the whole jar and mix it with some warm water and soak them in it for about 20 minutes. Use a small container and make the liquid go up to the bridge, that's where the top and bottom shells meet. Make sure that they can lift their heads out of the liquid as you don't want to drown them. As it cools off pour some out and add some more warm water, until the 20 minutes has gone by. Wrap one in a soft rag and carry it around with you as you do your chores and while you are sitting at your computer. You want to keep them awake and keep them with you. Sometimes when they are so weak they simply drift off and stop breathing. I know people think I'm crazy but it works. I do that for every sick baby I care for. Just for a couple of hours carry each one around. Keep the basking spot hot 90 degrees but just place the babies on the fringe of the heat and maybe they will move in and out of the heat themselves.
I use cypress mulch as my substrate if you can find it. Please don't use sand as babies can get impacted very easily. I guess that about covers it feel free to PM me if you need to. I hope I have helped.

No carrots and no human calcium. Go to the pet store and get Reptical .
 

jmu114

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Thank you all for your input!

I came home to discover that the spring mix is almost gone, and saw 2 larger babies roaming around for about 2 minutes before heading back to their den. The tiniest one still doesn't move around and I don't think it has eaten...only movement it shows is moving its head in/our a little; its hind leg looks extremely dry and deformed.

We found that the warmest spot in the tank is 85 degress and 75 degrees at the coolest spot.

We bought a UV lamp, cuttlebone and a bag of cypress mulch. My husband calls it "operation baby tortoise rescue." Gotta get working.

oh. btw. I read in one of the posts here that carrot baby food can be force-fed to a baby tort with a syringe, is this ok to do? I gotta find a way to get food into the tiniest baby.
 

kimber_lee_314

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Poor little babies! I'm so glad to hear they're in your care now. I syringe feed sick tortoises when necessary. Just be gentle if they are soft ....
 

jmu114

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maggie3fan said:
I Keep them warm and I hate to say it doesn't sound good but you can't give up on them.

I know people think I'm crazy but it works. I do that for every sick baby I care for.

Thank you! We bought cypress mulch.. my husband is setting up the tank right now. We'll be heading to a supermarket tonight to buy the carrot mix and soak them as you instructed. I feel like every minute is crucial at this point.... especially for the tiniest one. He is not moving much and when he does, it looks so difficult.

You are not crazy. People think we are crazy the way we take care of our pets too~
 
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Maggie Cummings

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Please don't take this wrong but you are not experienced enough to force feed a baby. When he is warm enough he will eat, or he won't. You could choke him if you did it wrong and believe me from personal experience it is something you never get over.
You need to get the hot side up to 95 degrees. It sounds like you have made progress with the 2 eating and walking around. If you don't do a baby food soak please still soak in warm water with bird vitamins. OK I'm outa here now...
 

jmu114

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maggie3fan said:
Please don't take this wrong but you are not experienced enough to force feed a baby. When he is warm enough he will eat, or he won't. You could choke him if you did it wrong and believe me from personal experience it is something you never get over.
You need to get the hot side up to 95 degrees. It sounds like you have made progress with the 2 eating and walking around. If you don't do a baby food soak please still soak in warm water with bird vitamins. OK I'm outa here now...

Thanks Maggie, I will not take it wrong. I was posting the question about force-feeding before I read your detailed response. We are actually soaking the babies in the carrot/warm water mix right now. I will have to find a temperature fix tomorrow.
 

RascalDesertTort

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Good luck! The poor things...please keep us posted. And have you named them yet? I think all pets deserve names, even if only expected to live for a short while. Hang in there and know that you are doing everything you can for them. :)
 
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Maggie Cummings

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I am wondering how your babies are this morning? How about an update?
 

jmu114

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Against my friends' advice (so I dont' get attached to them), I named them Heidi, Frosty and Frank.

Heidi, the tiniest one, is the one we are most concerned about. Last night, we soaked her in the carrot/water mix for 30 minutes and held her in our hands (wrapped in soft towel) for another 20 minutes while we watched TV. She stayed awake like Maggie said.

I don't know if it's a psychological affect, but Heidi looked a little better.. like someone who just had a good night's sleep. She moved about 3 inches towards the warm spot... that's was all. The other two didn't move much and didn't eat overnight. I put food in front of them this morning, but none would eat.

I will be home in a few hours... hope they have eaten all of the specially chopped spring salad. Will post an update later.
 

jmu114

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I am glad to report that after another warm soak, Heidi took a few bites of the greens and crawled to a shaded area... both acts are a first in the last two days! She didn't eat a lot but I am very hopeful she'll be ok now.

Frosty and Frank are doing better also. They are both eating. Frank took a dump in the water bath right in front of Frosty's face. This made Frosty move quite quickly away, with his neck stretched out as far away as possible from the crime scene~

At this time, I am very content.
 

Kristina

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Good luck. I hope things start looking up for the babies. Keep up with the baby food soaks, and look into getting a liquid calcium supplement. They need all the help they can get.
 

Yvonne G

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You can either use Baby Food (carrots, squash, sweet potatoes...the red/yellow foods) or liquid bird vitamins. When a tortoise isn't eating, it helps to keep them getting nutrients if you use these soaking methods. Even if the tortoise doesn't actually drink the mixture, he will soak up some of the nutrients through his thin skin under the throat and around the cloaca.

For those of you who don't believe this, we have always told people to not allow a tortoise on ground or grass that has been treated with chemicals because they absorb the toxins through their skin. Same deal.
 
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