I just want him to be a happy healthy turtle.

jewlee.bug

New Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
1
TL;DR version:
I have a questionably healthy, kinda of rescue three toed box turtle of unknown age.
I'd like to know how to fix his shell, how to keep bugs out of his substrate and how to get him to eat better food.

So, I was given this turtle in early 2016. He's gone through at least 4 homes and he deserves a permanent paradise. I really just want him to be happy and healthy and I need some help to get him there.
I recently moved him to a sphagnum moss and coconut fiber substrate about 2-3 inches thick then a layer orchard bark, then large rocks and a layer of gravel. There's also rocks and sticks to kind of mimic a forest floor, as well as some sandstone to help file down his nails. He has 3 live plants (all turtle safe) in his enclosure and a large paddling pool. I know an outdoor enclosure is ideal but I don't have the ability to give him that at this point so, I'm trying to give him the best indoor exhibit I can.
Healthwise he eats, more or less, has clear eyes that aren't swollen. His skin is nice and moist and his beak is pretty good. His plastron looks terrible but there's no soft parts.
Firstly, ever since he was given to me he's had problems with his plastron. I'll attach some pictures. I was treating him with some shell rot treatment from PetSmart but now his carapace has started to look dry and flaky (again, see pictures). How can I help him to have a healthy shell?
Secondly, I try to keep his substrate moist but I'm constantly battling an army of tiny crawling bugs. I'm fairly certain they aren't mites but, I've seen a few gnats flying about. Otherwise these tiny bugs crawl on him and I'm worried they may be harmful. I live in Colorado currently so misting is basically the only option to keep things moist. He has an undertank heater attached to one side of his enclosure and the temperature gage on the opposite side reads about 65. I try my best to keep his humidity gage above 40%, I'm not sure how accurate it is.
Thirdly, when I first got him he would only eat canned box turtle food. After a year, he'll eat greens pretty regularly and, he loves his fresh blueberries (they are treat for him he doesn't get them everyday). I've been feeding him every other day or every three days. His previous owner fed him once a week yearround. He is a very inconsistent eater but he consistently prefers his canned food. He used to not even touch food with vitamin powder on it but he's grown used to it. Still I'm afraid his diet isn't good enough and I'd love some suggestions for improved nutrition! And I know that box turtles can be picky eaters but there has to be a way to get around that!
Basically, I want this turtle to be happy. I can't give him a large outdoor enclosure but I can give him good health! He was named Bubbles when I first got him, they thought he was a girl. Now he is my little Bubba, he's apart of my family and I want to give him the best care I possibly can. I'm looking for any suggestions or tips to make his life better! Thanks!turtle plastron.JPG Plastron, looks better than a year ago but still looks messed up. :(
IMG_8058.JPG Kinda dry, flaky looking shell but nice turtle skin :)IMG_8066.JPGHim in his exhibit after being a bath.
 

Eric Phillips

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2014
Messages
1,091
Location (City and/or State)
Ohio
TL;DR version:
I have a questionably healthy, kinda of rescue three toed box turtle of unknown age.
I'd like to know how to fix his shell, how to keep bugs out of his substrate and how to get him to eat better food.

So, I was given this turtle in early 2016. He's gone through at least 4 homes and he deserves a permanent paradise. I really just want him to be happy and healthy and I need some help to get him there.
I recently moved him to a sphagnum moss and coconut fiber substrate about 2-3 inches thick then a layer orchard bark, then large rocks and a layer of gravel. There's also rocks and sticks to kind of mimic a forest floor, as well as some sandstone to help file down his nails. He has 3 live plants (all turtle safe) in his enclosure and a large paddling pool. I know an outdoor enclosure is ideal but I don't have the ability to give him that at this point so, I'm trying to give him the best indoor exhibit I can.
Healthwise he eats, more or less, has clear eyes that aren't swollen. His skin is nice and moist and his beak is pretty good. His plastron looks terrible but there's no soft parts.
Firstly, ever since he was given to me he's had problems with his plastron. I'll attach some pictures. I was treating him with some shell rot treatment from PetSmart but now his carapace has started to look dry and flaky (again, see pictures). How can I help him to have a healthy shell?
Secondly, I try to keep his substrate moist but I'm constantly battling an army of tiny crawling bugs. I'm fairly certain they aren't mites but, I've seen a few gnats flying about. Otherwise these tiny bugs crawl on him and I'm worried they may be harmful. I live in Colorado currently so misting is basically the only option to keep things moist. He has an undertank heater attached to one side of his enclosure and the temperature gage on the opposite side reads about 65. I try my best to keep his humidity gage above 40%, I'm not sure how accurate it is.
Thirdly, when I first got him he would only eat canned box turtle food. After a year, he'll eat greens pretty regularly and, he loves his fresh blueberries (they are treat for him he doesn't get them everyday). I've been feeding him every other day or every three days. His previous owner fed him once a week yearround. He is a very inconsistent eater but he consistently prefers his canned food. He used to not even touch food with vitamin powder on it but he's grown used to it. Still I'm afraid his diet isn't good enough and I'd love some suggestions for improved nutrition! And I know that box turtles can be picky eaters but there has to be a way to get around that!
Basically, I want this turtle to be happy. I can't give him a large outdoor enclosure but I can give him good health! He was named Bubbles when I first got him, they thought he was a girl. Now he is my little Bubba, he's apart of my family and I want to give him the best care I possibly can. I'm looking for any suggestions or tips to make his life better! Thanks!View attachment 204508 Plastron, looks better than a year ago but still looks messed up. :(
View attachment 204509 Kinda dry, flaky looking shell but nice turtle skin :)View attachment 204510Him in his exhibit after being a bath.


Hello and welcome! First and foremost good for you on trying to give this 3 toed a permanent home. Bummer you can't give it an outdoor home. While they do well indoors, they thrive outdoors. Realistically they need about 4x4' housing to be adequate space for an adult indoors. Make sure to get him outside for real sunlight about a couple hours a week during the warmer months if possible. The little bugs in the enclosure are springtails. They are safe for your turtle and are beneficial to your enclosure. They consume dead matter and are the house keeper. They are displeasing to any keepers eye but do their job. The plastron appears to be healing but tough to tell. As for humidity, you want to be closer to 60%. Maybe post a pic of the enclosure so we can better assist you on that department. I rescued a similar looking 3 toed 2 weeks ago in similar condition. How ironic, lol!
 

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lisa127

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10 Year Member!
Joined
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Messages
4,331
Location (City and/or State)
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If it were me I would give him overhead heat instead of a uth. I'd also cover the enclosure to hold in heat and humidity. I use black reptile heat bulbs for my boxies and provide a 5.0 uvb light. Temps ranging from 70 on cool side to 90ish under heat lamp. I cover enclosures with clear heavy shower curtains. When indoors I use long fibred sphagnum moss mixed with either coco coir or peat moss and I've never had any kind of bugs. I use no bark or mulch. He is a cutie!

This is all for indoors when I overwinter of course. For outdoors if you're ever able to concrete blocks and chicken wire covers are inexpensive outdoor enclosures!
 
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